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Post by Deleted on Jan 7, 2014 21:45:27 GMT -5
John the cable on the winch is going to be replaced. There is a rope like stuff that works for these with a load up to 12,000 lbs not sure how that works with a snatch block but the stuff if it breaks just falls to the ground it won't whip like cable. Tonight I'm going to clean up the control unit and pull the seal. I need to get a new seal for it. After that I'll clean up the drive shaft and paint it. Then grease it all up.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 8, 2014 2:44:52 GMT -5
guys got some news here, just finished up in the basement for the night, i pulled apart the pto control box to clean and inspect it, the seal looks ok but old so i will replace it just to be safe, the two bearings on the output shaft are rusty from the water in the case (hoping non was in the OD which seems to spin fine and the gears are rust free) however the bearings are not the cone and race type but the sealed unit type with metal seals on them and they are all junk. they spin ok but each spin you can feel a grind at one spot which i think is rust inside them so i added oil and spun but no good they still have the grind so i am debating if i should wait and replace them now. Also the poppet ball came out like a cannon round which i did not realize where my face was the thing shot straight into my left eye bounced off my safety glasses (forgot i was wearing them but boy am i thankful) and went all the way across the basement this thing hurt and was fast i am really surprised at how much power it had. I am fine and my glasses took a shot but they are ok swell. I am very glad i was wearing them and tomorrow ( well later today) i will get up some pics of the case.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 8, 2014 7:59:27 GMT -5
Wow, glad you didn't lose an eye. I had to put new bearings and chain in mine also. Seals too. Do it now, and you'll never have to go back unless you fill it with water again. Water seems to be the main culprit in the death of many components. Pressure washing also is a bad deal. I always drain all boxes after pressure washing. Amazing how much water gets in. It also explains why my handle is Oilleaker----  . John |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 8, 2014 8:03:08 GMT -5
There are some good videos on Youtube on winching with rope or cable. The rope is safer like you say, but is more expensive to buy, and cuts easier. If you get rope muddy and gritty, you have to clean/wash it or it fails also. Hemp rope in Colorado will be hard to find soon! Bunch of rope smokers down there! John |
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Post by rudycon on Jan 8, 2014 10:14:23 GMT -5
synthetic rope with snatch blocks = no problems:
We use synthetic rope with snatch blocks all the time. No problems as long as there are no burrs from a wire rope or chew marks from the neighbor's pitbull "moose" on the steel shiv. The synthetic holds up just fine in a block.
Most folks use some kind of synthetic rope out here on the trail. Various names like "Amsteel Blue."
I have seen both wire rope and synthetic rope break in hard winch pulls. There is just no mass to the synthetic rope compared to the wire rope and less stretch = less stored energy. It really does "just drop" whereas the wire rope snaps back. (In my case it jammed under the front tires of my rig.)
Depending on your fairlead and it's condition, you might need to change it out if you switch to synthetic rope. A smooth hawse fairlead works great with synthetic. Roller fairleads can wedge the rope (So they say) and a rough iron hawse type fairlead will wreck the rope fast. Most folks run some kind of aluminum hawse fairlead out here.
Better approach angles with the hawse fairlead anyway.
There is a considerable weight savings with synthetic rope and an aluminum hawse compared to wire rope and a big ol' roller fairlead. This makes a BIG difference if you have a portable receiver mount winch to shlep around like my Dad's Warn M8000. 27 pounds less weight.
Talk about easy to handle? synthetic rope never has wire burrs that slice your hand, it is lighter, you can heave it better because it lays flat and doesn't coil spring back up...shoot it usually floats too.
Think the bright blue plastic rope doesn't look "period correct" enough for your vintage machine? You can get synthetic winch rope in colors these days! Like GRAY! you can get black anodized aluminum fairleads too. (I run one)
Where synthetic loses out is in utility type work. You can't really skid logs up your back hill with synthetic rope. Dragging it over rocks will cut it pretty easily especially when there is a load on it. For this reason alone, I think I'll put fresh wire rope on my little PTO winch for around the house. Leave the synthetic on the Rudycon's Warn 9500ti.
Both rope materials deserve respect when you use them. Winch safety deserves it's own post. Just think about the direction the forces are being applied and plan for something to give way. No people allowed in the "danger zone."
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Post by Deleted on Jan 8, 2014 12:55:12 GMT -5
That write up on line types was great. I am thinking the winch eill be mostly a recovery unity but you never know.
Ams blue was what I was looking at but getting it in black or dark green.
On to my pto I will be ordering new bearings today from online as kaiserwillys wants my arm and leg for them.
Someone was in here before me as there was no gasket where the halfs met and one alignment pin is missing.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 8, 2014 15:25:11 GMT -5
john my box has www.reidsupply.com/sku/PRB-283/ This kind of bearing but shielded not sealed and kaiserwillys lists them as using tapered roller bearings. What do you think? I am thinking about ordering 4 of the ones i have listed to you for the control box seeing as they are sealed in the grease and should stop it from leaking better. that being said if you don't think they will work properly i will see what other options i have. thanks. |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 8, 2014 20:09:18 GMT -5
The pto I rebuilt was Ramsey. It had tapered bearings, races, and a lip seal. That's what I put back. Whatever the Koenig has, I'd keep it original. Excellent post about ropes and cables by Rudycon. A vintage Jeep and winch just doesn't look right to old guys like me without cable. So, wear gloves and practice safe winching. Real men wear Cable on their winches!  John |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 8, 2014 22:02:12 GMT -5
X2 on "wire rope", I've rigged miles of it on cranes. If you decide to use wire rope Schimmms, go to a rigging shop and buy it, then you will get the right product, and they will swage the hook on the end properly, and it will be safe, I would also suggest only installing what you plan to use, just because the drum will hold 200', does not mean you need that much, and the more on there the easier it fouls up. Lee  |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 8, 2014 22:44:14 GMT -5
I pulled my stupid cable off today and am cleaning up the winch. It is older and will be made into 5-10 ft chokers for logging. ( I pull with a chain so if the choker breaks the chain will knock it to the ground. )
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Post by Deleted on Jan 10, 2014 1:34:17 GMT -5
Guys what kind of lube do you run in your winches?
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Post by Deleted on Jan 10, 2014 8:44:47 GMT -5
90 weight and gun grease.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 15, 2014 23:09:05 GMT -5
I have no sheer pin or anything like that.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 16, 2014 18:36:59 GMT -5
If you overload the winch, you will find the weak point. Cable breaks, strip the brass gear inside, blow a u joint, twist off a shaft, or bend the Jeep in a U shape. A shear pin is usually located where the yoke slips on to the shaft. It simply shears the bolt or pin and the shaft then turns inside the yoke without the winch operating. Not hard to engineer. John
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Post by Deleted on Jan 16, 2014 19:39:14 GMT -5
I'm going to have to have something like that currently all my yokes attach via a key way or woodruff key. i know not having one is a bad idea ill have to figure something out. its all painted up and ready for install now though, can't wait till summer a week or two with the truck down and then BAM overdrive, pto, and hopefully a bed ha maybe a few more weeks for the bed.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 16, 2014 19:45:50 GMT -5
got any pictures of your shear pin and where it is? these all seem to have a key way of some sort and a screwed in allen headed bolt but I'm hoping maybe an allen head could be drilled out and replaced with a shear pin.
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Post by Haines Garage on Jan 16, 2014 22:33:14 GMT -5
Pics Sir Shimms...Pics!
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Post by Deleted on Jan 17, 2014 0:02:43 GMT -5
ill go take some and be back in.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 17, 2014 8:28:07 GMT -5
I think a Willys pickup mixed in with CJ's on a patrol event would be just fine. We would call that a "support Vehicle". You could haul all the spares along! john
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Post by Deleted on Jan 17, 2014 23:06:52 GMT -5
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Post by Deleted on Jan 17, 2014 23:07:39 GMT -5
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Post by Haines Garage on Jan 18, 2014 19:41:58 GMT -5
That is some very COOL stuff there my friend!!
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Post by Deleted on Jan 19, 2014 8:11:46 GMT -5
Nice clean job Luke! You have heated seat covers too. Now you need to get a wench to help operate the winch!  John |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 19, 2014 14:58:50 GMT -5
Ha. I'm going to have to get new winch cable or rope. But the owner before last broke the winch handle and brazed a new one together but got rid of the bracket and made one himself. It doesn't have any way to insure the winch stays in the upright position. So I'm still thinking up ways to insure it does but I've got a few.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 20, 2014 6:46:43 GMT -5
Ha. I'm going to have to get new winch cable or rope. HEY LUKE :: GUY I KNOW HAS A 12000 LB WINCH ON THE FRONT OF HIS TRUCK , HE SWEARS BY THE NEW ROPE FOR WINCHES !! |
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. John
John
John