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Post by Deleted on Aug 6, 2015 13:35:05 GMT -5
Sweet looking plug wires!!!!!
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Post by Deleted on Aug 14, 2015 7:14:03 GMT -5
Update please! How is the Studewillys doing? Never change it except to get your fuel pump supplying a steady correct flow. Cool old unit. It's like a identification sign. If I saw it outside a restaurant or store, we would know you are in the area. Oilly
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Post by rudycon on Aug 29, 2015 16:32:32 GMT -5
Holy wah!
So I retorqued my head bolts, fixed the carb.
Got it to start. Cranked in timing till I ran out of adjustment.
(Classic, not enough timing with the plug wires in one spot and too much advance if I move them 1 tower hotter.)
If I ever pull the oil pump, we'll set the distributor right.
Test drive!
Runs lean at very small throttle inputs.
But...wide open = wow. gains on hills where it used to lose steam!
I just pulled the big hill all the way in 3rd gear! I had to back off to make the sharp corner!
So the Stude-a-sonic lives!
Gotta check into that heavy knock before fall color tour.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 29, 2015 17:05:32 GMT -5
There goes the race. No chance now. Good to hear things are progressing. Oil
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Post by rudycon on Aug 29, 2015 21:16:26 GMT -5
Nooooww you beer drinkin' flatlanders are in trouble. I had my throttle linkage in the wrong hole. Now the butterfly opens 100%.
Drilled out my jet another drill size. #56. Still runs bad when cold and you just crack the throttle. As it warms up, that gets better. There is a funny booster circuit that should open up and flow more fuel when vacuum drops. All ports are open, but maybe it is worn out and sticks. It is a brass part. Probably has ethanol corrosion in it too. Or... The check ball in the accelerator pump well doesn't seat 100%. Runs ok.
Pulls like a Mack truck now. Ok....pulls like a studebaker m15 truck anyway.
Before I go pulling the pan, I should probably adjust the valves. That doesn't look fun, but I'm sure ithey haven't been touched in a coons age. I'll start by taking off the passenger fender.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 30, 2015 8:04:25 GMT -5
Lee and I will need to re-think our race preparation. Maybe install a Jeep body on a Cobra chassis. Might have problem with it at LeMans on the straight away at 200 mph.  |
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Post by Deleted on Aug 30, 2015 11:48:20 GMT -5
No worries here  |
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Post by rudycon on Aug 31, 2015 10:38:23 GMT -5
Here you go experts. Take a listen to hear the heavy clunking in my engine that I sometimes hear at idle. louder when engine and oil are hot.
It isn't easy to hear it behind the clatter of everything else, but there are at least 3 good clunks at the end. Seems to be about 1 every other RPM which sounds cam/valve related to me, but it is such a heavy clank...
Rod bearing? crank bearing? cam bearing? cam followers? crank walking? camshaft end-play? loose valve? flat cam? skirt slap? broken ring? broken fuel pump still bolted to the engine but not doing anything? fiber cam gear worn out?
Oil pressure isn't THAT bad. Say 10 psi at idle and 40 psi running at RPM when hot.
It has always made this noise, but this summer it is getting louder. I am going to guess it is the fuel pump lever arm. Maybe just wishful thinking. 2nd idea and easy to test will be water pump.
From a studebaker site: "The Airtex pump has a high probability of causing a knocking noise. Your best bet is to get a rebuilt Carter original from someone who knows what they are doing."
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Post by Deleted on Aug 31, 2015 11:19:42 GMT -5
I had my throttle linkage in the wrong hole. I don't know why....but that one sentence makes me giggle. |
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Post by Deleted on Aug 31, 2015 12:58:23 GMT -5
OK, a bad rod will normally make a rapid rattle just off idle when you rev up a bit. To find which one is doing it, you pull a plug wire, one at a time and re-rev. The noise goes away if you find that particular rod. Your noise sounds steady and at one point of a revolution. I'd take a long wooden or metal rod that you can hold up to your head and touch your ear area with one end and the motor areas with the other end. Watch out for the fan and belt though. A large painful event will happen there. Probe around. When you get to the location of the knock, it will be very loud with the probe. For example touch the fuel pump or water pump, and then elsewhere. Don't overlook something simple like a bolt that is being touched by a crankshaft web as it comes around. Things like that leave a tell tale mark. Carry on! Oilly ( another easy try is to remove the fan belt, and start the engine. That eliminates the water pump and generator)
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Post by rudycon on Aug 31, 2015 20:27:58 GMT -5
Thanks leaker. i worked on it a little tonight. I felt around in the grease and found the 2 bolts that hold the fuel pump on. Sounds easy, but that heat shield and the motor mount make it pretty tight. I was able to get it from the top. Sure enough, it is one of the notorious airtex units that leak oil from the pivot rivet. Also notorious for clanking. So I whipped up a blank plate. I'll try to install it tomorrow when the paint is dry, then go for a spin to get everything good and hot. Pictures   |
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Post by Deleted on Sept 1, 2015 6:48:16 GMT -5
Excellent! Just think how the weight savings will add speed to your Supersonic, Race proven, Studewillys power house!  |
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Post by rudycon on Sept 1, 2015 21:28:03 GMT -5
More clunking
Fuel pump removed. Fan belt off. Loudest towards the front on the piston side of the engine. Louder on top than from underneath too.
Last external thing to check is the harmonic balancer.
Take a listen if you want.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 1, 2015 21:50:26 GMT -5
That does not sound good to me. Did you try the plug wire check? Sounds piston oriented. You said it always had the knock and is getting louder, especially when hot. You would have seen a gouge in the cylinder wall if the wrist pin had walked out to the side of the piston. Could be a loose wrist pin, or broken piston. Piston slap? I've also read about a camshaft walking front to back making a rattle noise. Pistons can crack in the skirt area or up where the wrist pin hole goes through the piston. Didn't you have some new pistons and used pistons when you looked with the head off? Maybe one of the old ones is going. I hate noises like this. Oil
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Post by Haines Garage on Sept 1, 2015 22:09:36 GMT -5
That does not sound good to me. Did you try the plug wire check? Sounds piston oriented. You said it always had the knock and is getting louder, especially when hot. You would have seen a gouge in the cylinder wall if the wrist pin had walked out to the side of the piston. Could be a loose wrist pin, or broken piston. Piston slap? I've also read about a camshaft walking front to back making a rattle noise. Pistons can crack in the skirt area or up where the wrist pin hole goes through the piston. Didn't you have some new pistons and used pistons when you looked with the head off? Maybe one of the old ones is going. I hate noises like this. Oil In my really not extensive engine knowledge. Most Of what I have learned was because my stuff was Fscripted Up. I will concur with the General. That is by my ears a "Slap" I have never even seen a Studebaker engine. This should be most interesting. I know you will figure it out! |
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Post by rudycon on Sept 1, 2015 22:37:12 GMT -5
Thanks guys. As you can hear the noise comes and goes. Louder at low rpm. As I got the engine running better and better, it'll idle lower and lower. The noise may have always been there. Whatever it is it should be loose enough to find a problem.
3 valves have been replaced. 6 pistons have been replaced with 40 over. I have over revved a 948cc bugeye engine and the wrist pin walked into the cylinder walls and scored them. I didn't see any bore or piston damage from the top on this engine.
My 4 runner's v6 had skirt slap around 100,000 miles and ran another 200,000 miles. Maybe more. I sold it with almost 300,000 miles on it.
Whatever it is, I think I gotta drop the pan. I'm sure it is full of goo anyway and due to be scraped out. No oil filter on this engine. Lots of dusty conditions too with an open crankcase breather system
This motor knows neglect. The freeze plugs were popped out when I bought this jeep!
Before that, I'll pull plug wires tomorrow and take a listen hole by hole.
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Post by rudycon on Sept 10, 2015 21:52:11 GMT -5
Who wants some good news? I might have found my engine clunk. Took the belt off again, and I can MOVE the harmonic balancer hub on the crank! Sure it is easy to move it, but getting it off was harder with the engine in the jeep. Not much room to work. I did get it off none-the-less. The key looks ok, the crank looks ok. It looks like there might be some kind of coating on the inside of the hub, but not where it rides on the crank, nothin' . So hopefully the hub is worn out from moving on the crank because the bolt wasn't torqued to 140 foot pounds. (I undid it with a 1' crescent wrench. Way too easy.)  |
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Post by Deleted on Sept 11, 2015 7:49:27 GMT -5
I'll bet you found it. The seal surface looks to have either a scroll seal or is all fubared. Can you get another? A new key is a must too. Looking forward to having you on board in less than 2 weeks. Oil
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Post by rudycon on Sept 16, 2015 21:37:02 GMT -5
OilLeaker is right. The problem with an esoteric engine transplant is getting parts. You can't just go down to the Napa for most parts. Some....yeah.
Ordered up a gasket set from eBay. They sent the wrong kit.
Ordered up harmonic balancer from a studebaker vendor. Got the balancer, thought I was ordering a crankshaft hub. Plus it is a huge hunk of steel compared to what I have today.
So, I'll be draining the radiator, removing the timing cover. Cut up my own gasket. Pound in the new woodruff key, reuse the felt crank seal, press on the old crank hub, new damper rubber, old balancer, new lock washer, torque to spec, lock it, (someone skipped that step once.) swap out the fuel pump and filter, grease 'er up and drag it to Buena Vista. Hope she holds!
Also misising u joints and joint bolts I ordered last week or more ago... And my power-lock differential is lost in the mail.
Staying positive, but....that's a lot of setbacks! Hope for some minor success tomorrow. Maybe I'll work on the JK instead. Could use some minor success.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 17, 2015 7:18:20 GMT -5
Your participation is required. I have a back seat if Studlybaker gives you problems. Your sly comments along the way are entertaining to me. It will be fun. I'd let you drive "Or" too! Oilly
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Post by rudycon on Sept 17, 2015 9:45:02 GMT -5
Thanks OilLeaker. I'll be there  The weekend is not up yet! "I have not yet begun to fight." -John Paul Jones (No not the guy from Led Zeppelin ya hippies.) |
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Post by Deleted on Sept 17, 2015 16:19:38 GMT -5
No gaskets at Napa ?..... You still have time to install a Lincoln Locker!,,,,,, just say'in  |
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Post by rudycon on Oct 4, 2015 14:52:23 GMT -5
V12 rod bearings sound like the Studebaker knock Pima Air Museum V12 Alison engine. Loose rod bearings m.youtube.com/watch?v=0MS3IxE7SiQGPW  Pistol packing mama  Jaws attacks  |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 4, 2015 20:04:03 GMT -5
Cool stuff. You are awful close to getting Green Disease! GPW = Green Parts Willys. Oilly
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Post by zooke581 on Oct 4, 2015 20:06:50 GMT -5
Great pics. Like the GPW next to the C46 and the last one.
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The weekend is not up yet! 
