Rudycon's 1947 CJ2a rolling restoration

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Not that I know of,-let er rip!!

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Put well drinks on your list to do before you die Chuckie! By the way, we went for a Jeep drive up the Crook City Challenge Hill immediately after the well episode. It was epic--------but i don't remember? , Oil

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OK, but what's the formula??

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Glen Levits and cold ground temperature well water being pumped fresh as you fill your cup. The mix ratio is entirely up to your taste. Oil

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Well then! Guess I'll have to break down and buy some Scotch EH! I already have some of the best water around, that's the first thing I go for when we get home from a trip!! LOL

[rudycon]

got my 1959 lark head back from the machinist. Only 2 cracks. Hope to kick my compression ratio up to 8:1.

My wife thought the cylinder head looked like a muffin tin.

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8:1?? I know where to place my bet on the next Crook City Challenge! Muffin tin? OK..

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Jul 20, 2015 16:26:35 GMT -5 @rickg said:

8:1?? I know where to place my bet on the next Crook City Challenge! Muffin tin? OK..

If Steve is upping the anty, I will build an engine just for next year!. All the trick stuff is in a pile in the corner of the garage, LOL.





That Studebaker sounds sweet when it's working a hill!

[rudycon]

It is funny "racing" flatties. All you need is a 65 mph speed limit to stay legal. (Well Capt'n Lee can push in his clutch on a steep hill and hit 70.)

I reckon my new compression ratio will net me +3 horsepower at altitude. LOOK OUT!
Lee, don't build that motor. Don't want to start a horsepower war here. I'll buy the still available offenhauser DUAL CARB manifold for my bucket.
2x the trouble...probably the exact same performance. (but it would LOOK cool, eh?)

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Rudy, it's all about the look!, LOL. Supersonic head adds 1 HP, but the cool factor adds 10 HP.


PS

[rudycon]

Rod knock? Yeah whatever, we'll get to that. This is America. First things first. More power!
I pulled the old head off tonight.

Top view of 6 holes. 1 and 6 exhaust valves seem to run colder or richer. funny how the edges of the pistons are much cleaner. fuel wash? Plugs look good.


Still some cross hatching in the cylinders. no ring ridges.


Carbon in the worst looking cylinder. No idea when, if ever, anyone has been in this engine. Plugs look OK. Not TOO lean anyway.


Old head vs 1959 used Studebaker Lark Head. The Lark head's combustion chamber is about .100" shallower.
This should kick my compression ration up to about 8:1.

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8:1 your going to need 2 -6volt battery's to crank that power house

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You guys sound like a bunch of weekend round track racers. I think you should be more focused on things like fuel pressure, brakes, starters and stuff that is needed to just stay functional. Like bugsey's starter locking up. I've got to fix that stuff. 2nd gear staying in. It's hard enough, without pumping up your engine. A supersonic head, well, that's OK. Studewillys with the heart of a Lark! How about a studebaker Champion? That sounds better than a Lark. Oilly

[Deleted]

Really cool Rudy!, looking forward to the performance reports.

[rudycon]

Lee: I estimate 3 more horsepower at altitude. Maybe +6horsepower if I'm lucky. That will put me at about 63-66 horsepower up here. I'll be blowing the doors off of VW Beetles and old folks out walking their dogs.


This is (probably) a 1951 "Champion" engine. The 1959 Lark head swap is the easy way to get to 8:1. The hot rodders would deck the original champ's head .100" and by the look of it, that's exactly what the lark head is. (a last ditch effort to keep the 1940s flat head engine viable in the early 60s, the last thing studebaker did was bolt on a head with valves in the head onto the old champion 6 cly flathead block, but it really never worked right.)

OK. I admit, I'm doin' it all wrong. I SHOULD have dropped the pan, found the loose rod, mic'ed the crank and bought a set or 2 of rod bearings to take up the slack. I sure hope these are not the old poured bearing rods from the early champs.

As for fuel pressure, I almost never boil fuel with this setup (which is nice). If I could just find a more reliable 6 volt pump I think I'd be in business.

As for carburation. I gotta bite the bullet and get a lokar cable throttle so I can bolt on different carbs with ease. Right now it is a complex homemade rod system that PUSHES over the top on the throttle lever on the carb. Very "period correct" but hard to adapt to different carbs. The carter BBR-1 on there now is too big for the displacement of this engine and even more so at life at above 5,000 feet. I've never seen a carter BBR-1 on any other rig in the woods. There might be a reason for that. (floods on hills).

Enough typing. low on coffee. Gotta get out in the shed and start cleaning the block for the

STUDE-A-SONIC head swap.

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Rudy, with your extensive electronics knowledge a EFII throttle body setup would be no problem!,and an interesting project, plus your fuel pressure gage would then have some pressure to carry, LOL

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Weber downdrafts are good, but too sensitive to altitude change. The EFI throttle body set up would be cool if you can get a solid state box to read the needs of the Studesonic race engine! Love the new name. Maybe Studesonic Champ. Oil

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Look out Lee!!!

The Stude-a-Willis will really give yer overdrive run for the money now!!!!!

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Sir Rudy, perhaps the HP gain is small, the small increase in torque may be noticeable. I also believe you will notice a better idle, this is so with a like mod in a Go Devil...... Now can we get the Schimmmmmster to cast up some " Studa-Sonic" heads, no doubt a small fortune to be made in the Hi Performance world of Studabaker enthusiasts!




Professor, no worries here unless Sir Rudy goes overdrive!, then I will build my outlaw SuperSonic 134. We never did a head to head run on purpose in SD, but hills would be his advantage as is, but my ability to split gears overcomes that as is........... This is great fun talking crap about 65 yo flatheads is it not, in reality we could not get a speeding ticket on a two lane highway in the U.S. Unless we ran into Buford "T" Justice himself unless we went ultra hog wild, I do not see that happening, LOL

[rudycon]

Probably not going to finish the head swap today.
Scraping pistons, I found out this engine has been rebuilt at least once. 3 intake valves don't say studebaker on them. and the pistions are stamped 040

So, I guess my 170CI engine is really 174 CI. This also kicks my compression ratio up about .15 (guessing on the combustion chamber volume, but it lines up.

Got the lark head bolted down. I have to get different spark plugs. My 3/4" reach "E" NGK plugs will hit the valves unless I index the plugs. I'm going down to 1/2" reach "H" plugs.
B7HS NGKs. This is the also the right plug for a 1936 Indian in case you need one. I think the lark guys favor the autolite 437 plugs and I THINK that is a 7/16" reach plug. (.437 happens to be 7/16.)

I'm pretty darn sure .25 less plug will be plenty shallow. In fact, that barely puts the electrode in the combustion chamber. I don't know why you would want to "pocket" the spark plug. sounds like a great way to foul plugs.

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Glad you figured that out my friend. Bent valves and closed spark plug electrodes suck. Anyone need a Harley? Millions here and they all are loud!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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I'll pass on the HD, stay away from the Kool-Aid aswell

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The 437's are a 7/16 reach plug.

Here's a handy-dandy chart that I found while researching what sort of resistor plug to use for my jeep.

As for as the reach of the plug into the combustion chamber, If I correctly recall , the plug is supposed to be slighty recessed for cooling purposes, if it sticks out to far it could become a hot spot for pre-ignition. Hopefully, if I'm thinking wrong, somebody will coreect me...

[rudycon]

Thanks Gary. I got a 437. The plug wire connectors don't come off! My home-built plug wires have screw down Rajha ends on them, so they won't go.
My NGK B6HS plugs arrived today. Gapped them to about .026, screwed 'em down, cranked around the motor. Looks like they won't hit the valves.
TEST DRIVE! The timing is WAAAY too hot now but it ran. Got it up to temperature. Will retorque the head bolts, and back down the timing. (It is at the end of the retard adjustment, I'll have to move the plug wires around 1 clockwise and put the distributor way over to the advance end of the adjustment instead.

Estimated new compression ratio with 40 over pistons, lark head shaved .090 on my 1951ish engine = 8.45:1 or so.
STUDE-A-SONIC!

[athawk11]

Very cool!