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Post by rudycon on Dec 31, 2013 10:10:50 GMT -5
The goal here is to have a presentable, 100% functional, stock(ish) weekend driver to tinker with. I'd say ice cream/hardware store run rig, but I would really like to put-put along some of the amazing trail networks out here in Colorado too. I'm not looking for a concourse restoration here. What I'm starting with is a bit too rough for that. Ultimate goal? Make it reliable enough to attend a Colorado fall color tour. 2014 is a possibility.
It still has floors! Yeah the hat channels are pretty wasted, and there is some perforation on the little fender steps and where all those panels come together on the side in front of the tool box. The toolbox floor is pretty thin too.
LOTS of extra mounting holes in the dash, firewall, tub, tailgate and even the fenders.
This rig was a hunting rig for sure. It has a butched in passenger side heater maybe from the a Studebaker truck, had a gun rack between the seats, and had a game rack on the custom, heavy bumpers. It has probably had at least 2 different tops on it going by the holes drilled in the tub. It has a PTO winch that I can't identify, and lots of other non willys parts like the marker lights.
Windshield? broken on one side and the ventilator arms are gone.
Rear spider gears were welded for more off-pavement functionality.
The most interesting modification is the Studebaker Champion 6 under the still stock hood.
The champ is a 170" 1951 model I think. It has a carter bbr-1 carb from a 1957 Studebaker truck I think.
The rig is set up 6 volt, negative ground right now. Most things work. As usual, the deeper you go, the more you find to fix.
Attachments: Luzon red originally?
Hydraboost brake booster probably just a giant vacuum leak, eh?
2 extra spark plugs on this unit. (Studebaker Champion 6)
There are some mighty fine rigs and amazing craftsmanship on this forum. I'm sure my skills and rig are much more plebian. I don't think I'll ever get up to the "show off your rig" forum. Showin' off isn't really my style and I don't think I'll ever get past the "project stage."
My first order repairs are to get it safely flat towable and emissions testable so I can get it registered for road use. (yep. I know. Emissions testing on a 47 Willys that lives at 8900' seems a bit strange, but them's the rules.)
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Post by Deleted on Dec 31, 2013 17:30:37 GMT -5
Interesting,,,, Studebaker 6 was one of the first transplants into early Jeeps, after the war, the engines could be bought cheaply surplus as they were used in Weasles, cool  ,Vintage modified. Does the hydroboost work, may not be a bad thing. Now you need an overdrive, with the extra power, running 60 mph would be no problem. Lee  |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 31, 2013 22:42:57 GMT -5
" I don't think I'll ever get up to the "show off your rig" forum." I garrantee, you bring that jeep to the Fall Colors Tour and that Studie will attract plenty of attention!  BW |
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Post by Haines Garage on Jan 2, 2014 22:39:53 GMT -5
" I don't think I'll ever get up to the "show off your rig" forum." I garrantee, you bring that jeep to the Fall Colors Tour and that Studie will attract plenty of attention! BW And Rudy you should....Those Fellas are "THE BEST"! I was at Fall Colors Tour 2013, all the way from Charleston, SC. It is a Trip I will NEVER FORGET! Contact Bruce W or Tim Hawkridge, athawk11.... You Jeep is C O O L !! Glad to have you here...Keep us updated! |
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Post by rudycon on Jan 3, 2014 11:57:07 GMT -5
Quick update: I rebuilt the Carter BBR-1 carb last night (type D5). Brrr. Really too cold to be out in my garage right now. I did fix some stuff on it. I hope it is fixed right enough to run better now. The main problem was the misinstalled accelerator pump. I have the new one in, plus I fixed some other stuff I saw wrong, but I'm not SURE on some other stuff like the accelerator pump spring length and the diameter of the spring retainer cap on top of the pump. *shrugs* We'll just see how I did with what I have I guess! I also completed restoring the ENTIRE emission control system on the Studebaker engine. Yep. Popped on a new oil fill/breather cap. No more tin foil with a hole on top. We're fancy pants now. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Jan 3, 2014 19:09:34 GMT -5
Rudy, you should have got the chrome oil cap, I hear they add 10 hp, LOL, keep plugging away, you'll get it done. Lee |
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Post by Haines Garage on Jan 3, 2014 23:07:40 GMT -5
Rudy, looks good...never mind the chrome...If you get a chance post some more detailed pics of that engine. I am most interested, as well as others to see it.
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Post by rudycon on Jan 4, 2014 13:57:26 GMT -5
pshaw. Who needs 10 extra H.P. When I have the boundless power afforded by 170 cubic inches of thrashing Studebaker power already. Chrome don't get ya home and all. Worked a bit last night on the Stude-a-willy. I got my radiator repaired and re-installed. It is a stock radiator with a 4th row added to it I think. The lower hose has been moved from left to right too. New Gates made in USA universal flex radiator hoses are 1.5" diameter and 14" long. Maybe someday I'll find better fitting molded hoses. A new radiator cap is on the way. With that, I think I can refill the cooling system with antifreeze. Then I can park the thing outside if I want. Attachments:
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Post by rudycon on Jan 4, 2014 22:29:28 GMT -5
So I need to replace the glass in the wind screen. I figured out it only slides out the left and it swings rustily, but doesn't slide. pass me the WD-40. and I found out I can wedge the inner windscreen over braced against the outer. keep on adding stuff. I was able to pull it out with my hands with a foot left to go. Stroke of luck, I parked the Willys 1 inch far enough from the wall to slide the inner windshield out all the way! I have managed to get the outer gasket out in peices, but I've been hammering and wedging on the top of the inner frame for an hour or more! The middle is loose, both ends are not. I can tap the top part left and right and with serious cruel and sadistic techniques involving hammers and screwdrivers, I have managed to move one side off maybe 1/2 of an inch but the top is still hangin' tough. Is there a trick to getting the top channel off of the bottom of the frame? Attachments:
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Post by rudycon on Jan 5, 2014 0:13:12 GMT -5
Ah. I found it. So those two stripped out decrepit screws in each corner are not just more PO installed screws in the Willys. They hold that stamped L shaped corner brace in. two of mine were already broken off inside. I finished off the other 2 and tada, windshield is apart. I'll have to re-drill/tap the holes in the corner bracket and bend the top back straight again. I'll try to get a glass shop to cut me a couple of fresh squares and I'll order up the parts to put it all back together. Attachments:
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Post by Haines Garage on Jan 5, 2014 16:44:20 GMT -5
[quote
I'll try to get a glass shop to cut me a couple of fresh squares and I'll order up the parts to put it all back together.[/quote]
Its always something like that Rudy, glad you got it apart. When you get the glass cut, please record the size, and post it here. I am currently doing a job for a Glass company, and want them to make some for me.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 5, 2014 17:04:13 GMT -5
I was looking at a '41 Slat Grill Army jeep for sale, and it too had a 6 cylinder Studebaker ( Studly Baker ) engine in it. It looks like not cutting of the firewall, and no moving or cutting of the radiator except neck change as you noted. 36 more cubic inches you say. very interesting. Wonder if it just bolts right up to the Jeep tranny and how about the front motor mounts? Thanks for the pictures! John PS, now you need a split manifold and dual exhaust. You could sound like a E-Type Jag!
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Post by rudycon on Jan 5, 2014 17:04:16 GMT -5
Glass dimensions:
This was safety glass. I think this means newer glass, plus the broken off/boogered screws might mean the glass is not original. But the rubber channels all seemed to fit well, no adhesive anywhere, so I think this was at least stock sized glass possibly in the old rubber channels?
MEASURMENTS:
thickness at the top .242"
thickness at the bottom .245"
Width: 23 1/16"
Height 12 9/16"
Corners are square. No radius.
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Post by Haines Garage on Jan 5, 2014 17:07:01 GMT -5
Glass dimensions: This was safety glass. I think this means newer glass, plus the broken off/boogered screws might mean the glass is not original. But the rubber channels all seemed to fit well, no adhesive anywhere, so I think this was at least stock sized glass possibly in the old rubber channels? MEASURMENTS: thickness at the top .242" thickness at the bottom .245" Width: 23 1/16" Height 12 9/16" Corners are square. No radius. Rudy....You are the man!!! Just like that....Wow!! Thank You! |
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Post by rudycon on Jan 5, 2014 17:55:58 GMT -5
oilleaker: My swap doesn't have any firewall mods. The engine is about 1" to the firewall all around. but, There is an important problem. The powertrain is moved BACK in the frame about an inch, maybe a bit more. This means the shifters don't come up in the tub holes right, and the firewall has enlarged holes for the pedal shafts! I guess this means the pedal pivot is moved on the frame too. Possible driveshaft mods (longer front, shorter back?) I don't have much experience in all things flatty, but The motor mounts looks like the stock parts. I hear that there is often a problem with the studebaker fuel pump hitting the stock right hand front motor mount. My pump is slightly aft of the motor mount. Another reason to move the engine back? Why move the engine back? Clearance for the fan to radiator seems to be the first priority. Even with the 4th row added, I have 1" fan to radiator. Hood height: I have extra stuff between the hood and the grill. This might be to provide a little more room for the air filter. There is about 1/2" from the filter to the hood. close, but it doesn't seem to ever hit. No evidence marks on the hood. Too bad this bucket is such a dirt ball. tough to take good photos that show stuff. |
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Post by rudycon on Jan 5, 2014 18:15:37 GMT -5
Oh yeah jaguar 6? I have a pretty good idea of what that would sound like. 2nd car I put together was my Dad's Austin Healy 3000. tractor motor 6 cly doesn't quite sound like a jaguar, but it sure does rip. 2x3 all the way from manifold to tailpipes. This studebaker 6 engine sounds much more tame than pop's hot cammed big healey 6, but I might have an existing fix for that. check this out! An exhaust cutout capped with what looks like a gas cap! I just put a wrench on the cap and by golly it came off. Lots of black soot and even some sandy stuff came out when I took the cap off. So I can go from normal muffled exhaust to straight pipe "war power" with the twist of an old gas cap. edit: so how can I take all these pictures and get them up? the jeep is in an unheated garage and it is +2 degrees outside right now. Really too cold to turn wrenches out there, but I can run out and take a picture for you guys before I get cold. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Jan 6, 2014 9:28:00 GMT -5
Thank You for your effort and fine pictures. You answered all my questions. The cap on the exhaust is a mystery. In the old days of drag racing we called them dumps. Why would you put a Dump on a Jeep?  Anyway, you have a interesting Jeep! John |
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Post by Haines Garage on Jan 6, 2014 21:30:18 GMT -5
Rudy, thank you again for the glass measurement.
I ordered two laminated pieces today. I have reproduction rubber to install the new glass with.
Any tips or tricks you know of?
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Post by Deleted on Jan 7, 2014 9:11:16 GMT -5
Scott, the glass slides down from the top into the lower frame . Use lots of water/dishwashing liquid. I pre- tapped the holes, bought brass screws and used antiseize compound on the threads. Don't hit the edge of the glass on anything and chip it, that starts a crack. I used glass glazing strips and folded them into the channel and slid down into them . After I was done, took a razor blade and trimmed the excess. The "t" rubber was the worst part that "slides" into the channel.----Slides, right! Good luck with that. John
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Post by rudycon on Jan 7, 2014 9:37:45 GMT -5
Hmmm. This is my first CJ glass rodeo. So I don't have any tips yet.
Thanks for sharing your experiences, Oilleaker. Dishsoap should be pretty slick.
One trick we used to do on the VWs was to use brake fluid on the rubber as a lubricant. Awful hard on the paint though, eh?
Working with Trips for Kids (they put under served city youth on mt. bikes on real trails.) I found out that Windex makes putting rubber handlebar grips on a snap. Once it dries, they tend to stay put, even in the rain. Also really good at getting grips off if you can get it between the rubber and the bars.
I'm going to start with windex, then move to dish soap, then brake fluid if I have to.
I too have ordered glass cut at a local shop down in town and I have ordered the seals online. I won't have news for at least a week. Nothing happens fast when working on the Willys!
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Post by rudycon on Jan 7, 2014 10:30:31 GMT -5
Willys "Deferred Maintenance" catch-up work report:
I'm not just a webwrencher, I'm actually out there a little at a time making slow progress. I could see my breath in the garage so I can't say it was "fun" last night.
I finished changing the front diff, engine, trans, and t-case fluids last night (rear diff is apart waiting for non-welded spider gears)
The rear diff fluid was the worst looking. The rest was OK, but certainly due. Happy to see at least SOME oil in everything and no chunks.
I had to scrape about 10 pounds of oil soaked goo off the trans/t-case just to find the drain/fill plugs.
I let things drain overnight.
I used Penzoil Syncromesh in the trans/tcase (safe for "yellow" metals). 4 pints in the t-case, 3 in the transmission. Not sure how I got an extra 1/2 pint in the tcase. rig is level. I actually checked it with a level.
90 weight (and some leftover Redline Shockproof gear oil) in the front diff.
5 quarts 10-30w Shell Rotella T and a can of STP in the engine.STP was once owned by Studebaker and marketed as "Studebaker Tested Products" so I felt it an appropriate additive.
While waiting for oil to flow down the funnel and 4' of 3/8ths tubing, I managed to adjust 3 of the 4 brakes as a bonus. One wheel is still way too tight. Need to grind a wrench down to get to the bottom adjusters.
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Post by Haines Garage on Jan 7, 2014 20:49:47 GMT -5
That is some Fantastic Information Rudy. I will ask you for this...can you do an open hood full view of that motor? I have never really seen one.
Love the fluid info...
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Post by rudycon on Jan 8, 2014 23:23:31 GMT -5
I found a pdf about penzoil syncromesh and the viscosity rating is a bit too low. It is more like 50 weight. I'm sure it will be fine for my low temperature operation up here, but in the summer, I should swap it out for something a little thicker. Not a big deal.
This fluid swap was more of a baseline check than a finished product. Given the dirt factor, I suppose a double fluid swap in a year is only going to help long term.
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Post by rudycon on Jan 8, 2014 23:36:04 GMT -5
Here are some requested engine shots to show the dirtball Studebaker repower unit under the hood of this ol' bucket. Maybe someday it can look pretty, but I want to get this bucket on the road first. Right now, I don't think it will pass smog check Gotta check the fuel pump output. It still runs OK but won't accelerate. Tonight's efforts were waylaid by my loving wife's Audi repairs. I changed out the crank position sensor. Don't ask. Back to the Willys: got some parts today. put some on. Nothing really fancy. 2 cotter pins away from having 4 shocks on the rig again. I'll stop by the hardware store on the way home tomorrow. 3 shots: top view, we have clearance Clarence, side view. |
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Post by Haines Garage on Jan 8, 2014 23:38:32 GMT -5
Yes my friend , that is what I am talking about....Very Nice! Love it! Any casting numbers, etc you can see?
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,Vintage modified. Does the hydroboost work, may not be a bad thing. Now you need an overdrive, with the extra power, running 60 mph would be no problem.
BW
