1945 GPW (271622)

[Deleted]

I just realized I have no project thread going on for my jeep.

Soooooo....today is a dreadfully rainy day. I don't have to go to work. I've already piddled around with my newest gang ho hobbie: reconditioning antique hickory golf clubs. Thought I'd go tinker on the jeep next.

Last summer after my major transmission ordeal, I discovered that I failed to put in one of the dime sized felt washers that hibernate inside the clutch tube. A day after I reassembled everything, I found it on my workbench. It's a simple procedure I've been neglecting. Today is a great day to go get underneath the jeep.

[Deleted]

I want to see the F script washers in your tube!

[Deleted]

Lol. Too late.

So, that little hokey repair lasted all of 5 minutes. I need to go find something else to muck with to get my wrench fix on. (Ultimately, I think I'm avoiding the whole RPM at idle dilemma)

I know the other thing I've got going on is the old upside down distributor...which that seems too in depth right now.



Maybe I'll go play golf.

[jeffwho]

Hey bastage, you can work on my jeep. ( I can hear it begging, PLEASE MR BOBO DON'T LET HIM TOUCH ME )

[Deleted]

Got the RPMs down a bit...but still nowhere near 600.

This is what I was doing, curtesy of our own Scout: link

By the end, the vacuum gauge barely moved, and was almost stationary on 20. However, RPMs were at or just under 1000.

After retarding the distributor, the engine sounded very quiet. I rolled to the carb and adjusted the stop screw. This is when I got the vacuum needle to 20...almost 21. The engine definitely sounded stronger, but the RPMs did not increase. I then went to the idle screw...I could increase and decrease RPMs ever so slightly. I kept going back and forth between the screws, and watching the vacuum gauge.

In the end, I could get the RPMs to about 900/950. Vacuum appears to be between 19/20.

Perplexed, I decided on a different course of action...I shut her down, removed the gauges, and then started her back up to go for a drive. I don't think my foot depressed the switch at all and she started.

Wonder if my 40 year old dwell/tach meter is miscalculated? I'm closer, at least.

Update....tried a new (old) tach meter. Pretty steady at 950ish.

On the flip side, the dwell appears to be at 21. If im even reading it correctly. Surely it's not 21. It should be twice that.

[Deleted]

Hey, with my engine and your tranny, it would be a perfect Jeep!

[Deleted]

That damn distributor is a 15 min. Fix..... As Binthere would say, "Suck It Up Princess". Got it done!.

[Deleted]

Feb 5, 2016 15:17:43 GMT -5 @themoose74 said:

Got the RPMs down a bit...but still nowhere near 600.

This is what I was doing, curtesy of our own Scout: link

By the end, the vacuum gauge barely moved, and was almost stationary on 20. However, RPMs were at or just under 1000.

After retarding the distributor, the engine sounded very quiet. I rolled to the carb and adjusted the stop screw. This is when I got the vacuum needle to 20...almost 21. The engine definitely sounded stronger, but the RPMs did not increase. I then went to the idle screw...I could increase and decrease RPMs ever so slightly. I kept going back and forth between the screws, and watching the vacuum gauge.

In the end, I could get the RPMs to about 900/950. Vacuum appears to be between 19/20.

Perplexed, I decided on a different course of action...I shut her down, removed the gauges, and then started her back up to go for a drive. I don't think my foot depressed the switch at all and she started.

Wonder if my 40 year old dwell/tach meter is miscalculated? I'm closer, at least.

Update....tried a new (old) tach meter. Pretty steady at 950ish.

On the flip side, the dwell appears to be at 21. If im even reading it correctly. Surely it's not 21. It should be twice that.

Does your Dwell/Tach have a 4 cylinder scale, along with a 6 and an 8? If only a six and eight scale, double the eight reading. I think your dwell is fine at 42º. One more question, if you please. Is this idle reading with the choke fully open?

[Ryan_M]

I fought a similar battle with Scout alongside awhile back. One of roughly 10 things I had wrong (and that's just with the Jeep...) was that the throttle linkage adjustment rod - the one that goes from the accelerator pedal lever to the carb and has that little square nut on it near where the accelerator return spring attaches, was not set properly. I'd post a pic but as of late any time I log into Photobucket it automatically means I will have to run a complete virus/malware cleanse and then reboot my PC...very annoying.

Anyways, I had to let the adjustment out a bit on that rod as the way I had it set would not allow the butterfly valve in the carb to close all the way which would keep the RPM's way too high no matter what else I did.

[Deleted]

Man’s got a point Moosey! Maybe that might be your problem? I always assume the worst.

[Deleted]

Scout...yes, the choke was fully opened.

Lee...I'm not too bothered by the dizzy right now. That part of my equation is fine...albeit wrong...so I don't necessarily want to inadvertently muck anything up before tackling this other little detail.

I've lived with both issues for 7/8 years. Don't worry, I'll fix the distributor eventually. I've done it with other jeeps.

OK...what Ryan was talking about...that could quite easily be the issue! I'm at work right now so I don't have access to everything...I would imagine that the set up procedure is in the TMs?

This is exciting! Ryan...can you snap a picture of your setup on your phone and just text it or email it to me?

[Deleted]

Feb 6, 2016 8:19:39 GMT -5 @themoose74 said:

Scout...yes, the choke was fully opened.

Lee...I'm not too bothered by the dizzy right now. That part of my equation is fine...albeit wrong...so I don't necessarily want to inadvertently muck anything up before tackling this other little detail.

I've lived with both issues for 7/8 years. Don't worry, I'll fix the distributor eventually. I've done it with other jeeps.

OK...what Ryan was talking about...that could quite easily be the issue! I'm at work right now so I don't have access to everything...I would imagine that the set up procedure is in the TMs?

This is exciting! Ryan...can you snap a picture of your setup on your phone and just text it or email it to me?

Come on Mooosey, perhaps a trip to the lowlands is in order, can't hardly take this anymore, constant procrastinating in Mt. Pleasant! Has spread to Summerville now, I will look for a Drill instructor hat on eBay, and a plane ticket!

[Deleted]

Feb 6, 2016 9:46:03 GMT -5 @lee said:

Feb 6, 2016 8:19:39 GMT -5 @themoose74 said:

Scout...yes, the choke was fully opened.

Lee...I'm not too bothered by the dizzy right now. That part of my equation is fine...albeit wrong...so I don't necessarily want to inadvertently muck anything up before tackling this other little detail.

I've lived with both issues for 7/8 years. Don't worry, I'll fix the distributor eventually. I've done it with other jeeps.

OK...what Ryan was talking about...that could quite easily be the issue! I'm at work right now so I don't have access to everything...I would imagine that the set up procedure is in the TMs?

This is exciting! Ryan...can you snap a picture of your setup on your phone and just text it or email it to me?

Come on Mooosey, perhaps a trip to the lowlands is in order, can't hardly take this anymore, constant procrastinating in Mt. Pleasant! Has spread to Summerville now, I will look for a Drill instructor hat on eBay, and a plane ticket!

The distributor isn't the issue right now.

[Deleted]

Okay, it's bothering me more than you.


On your carb!, start the jeep up, unhook the throttle linkage at the carb, eliminating it from the problems, keep in mind you will need to keep slight pressure on the throttle by hand as there is no spring to do so for you!. If you can adjust the idle down now, it was the linkage that was adjusted to short, then you can correct that. You need to start eliminating things from the system to get to the bottom of this. Something simple is being overlooked here.

[Deleted]

Feb 6, 2016 10:25:05 GMT -5 @lee said:

Okay, it's bothering me more than you.

Tim? hahahahahaha Sorry. That was mean. Don't hate me, Mr. Hawkridge.

Don't get me wrong, Cap'n, it bothers me, too. Bothered me a boatload once I discovered the blunder! Once I get this idle fixed, I'll hit up the distributor/oil pump combo. Then, I'll go hardcore and make sure I have felt pieces everywhere they should be! I've been wanting to get the GPW voting standards book...go hardcore.

[Deleted]

Just lengthen the long rod from the block it screws into.

[Deleted]

Feb 6, 2016 10:32:30 GMT -5 @themoose74 said:

Feb 6, 2016 10:25:05 GMT -5 @lee said:

Okay, it's bothering me more than you.

Tim? hahahahahaha Sorry. That was mean. Don't hate me, Mr. Hawkridge.

Don't get me wrong, Cap'n, it bothers me, too. Bothered me a boatload once I discovered the blunder! Once I get this idle fixed, I'll hit up the distributor/oil pump combo. Then, I'll go hardcore and make sure I have felt pieces everywhere they should be! I've been wanting to get the GPW voting standards book...go hardcore.

This standard is on the web free to print on your home printing press!, brace yourself Mooosey,,,,,,, it's Free!

[Ryan_M]

Just e-mailed you a pic but should have checked back here first. Scout's manifolds are much cleaner than mine

Edit: I've also had that throttle linkage rod rub and fetch up on some of the carb linkages, preventing it from traveling all the way forward back to the true "low idle" position. Make sure that rod has free travel and is not rubbing on anything.

[Deleted]

Got the picture Ryan. Thank you for posting one, too, Scout.

Ok, here is where I stand...I'm still at about 900-950 RPMs. I've got approximately 1/4 inch of threads left behind that squared nut. The throttle linkage is not binding and go slide all the way to end. Do you think that is sufficient or should it get backed off more?

I went through the whole routine...get get the dizzy to the highest reading on the vacuum and retard it slightly. Work the idle stop screw, work the idle mixture. This is the quietest the engine has sounded. Starts super fast.

I still have a very erratic occasion "pop" in the exhaust. It is sooooo much better now than it was when it drove me to pull off the manifold and deal with the gasket.

Also, while I was playing with the throttle linkage (jeep was not on) I noticed a bit off gas leaking. I guess I was inadvertently flooding the carb. It seemed to be coming possibly from the shaft in the bottom valve in the base of the carb. This has to be a clue, Scout!

[Deleted]

Rule of thumb for setting the linkage. The short 90º that engages the throttle lever should extend, at a minimum of one rod thickness beyond the fully closed position. This allows the spring tension to keep the throttle fully closed at idle.
Gas seeping from the throttle shaft is indicative of flooding. Either there is detritus in the needle and seat or the float setting is incorrect. Possibly the float pin and the posts it slides through are worn and the float position is changing with each successive filling of the bowl.
Please post a photo of the carb side of the motor. I’m working blind here.

[Deleted]

Looks dirty. Replaced parts from a kit bought from Ron about 7 years ago.

[Deleted]

WTF’script? Is that a conduit clamp holding the cables to the bracket? Points off!  Oh yeah. It’s definitely flooding. Filtration? How close is the fuel line to the exhaust and does the heat riser work?

[Deleted]

Damn. You spotted the conduit clip. Really funny, I just discovered that crap the other day when I pulled the manifold. That was my Dad's clever last minute device to set the carb up so his impatient son could hear the engine come to life. Seriously, for 7 years I have not noticed it!

So now Lee is irritated with my distributor and you've got that glaring eyesore to look at. I'll go look in my crusty carb box tomorrow and see what I can find.

So, now that you've picked out the conduit clip, you're going to love the friction tape to stop the horn from rubbing. Yep, that's me. Oilly has to be loving this.

The heat riser work just fine...as far as I know.

The fuel lines do not appear very close to the manifold. If I remember correctly, I used my originals as templates, so they should be close to original specs.

Since my jeep was once owned by Nabholtz, can I get some points back?

[Deleted]

Heed no attention to the rubber hose...I left the vacuum attached.

[Deleted]

OK. Nabholtz does carry some weight around here. But seriously, next time you fire it up, let it warm up completely and see if the lollipop is standing level. If not, that may be the culprit for the flooding. I’ll semi-ignore the tape for now.

Fuel line looks good. Oh, if it’s any consolation my motor doesn’t look as it did in that photo.