1945 GPW (271622)

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Roger that, Scout. I'll give it a go tomorrow...hopefully...and report back.

PS...Nabholtz sold it to Lloyd White.

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Definitely have to take care of it.

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Are you sure the throttle cable stop isn't holding things open? You may need to loosen the conduit clamp and move the cable forwards so the stop is clear of the throttle lever arm. Oilly

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Feb 7, 2016 8:45:37 GMT -5 @oilleaker1 said:

Are you sure the throttle cable stop isn't holding things open? You may need to loosen the conduit clamp and move the cable forwards so the stop is clear of the throttle lever arm. Oilly

Hahaha...why does everyone insist on mentioning my conduit clamp? Oilly, YOU just had to point THAT out, right?! Bastage.

I wish that were the issue. It would've been fixed. Yesterday, while the jeep was running, I did loosen the black eye conduit clamp and even had the stop off of the wire completely. When I reinstalled the stop, I snugged it on close to the lever arm, but it didn't change my RPMs. I'm 100% sure my sexy bubba throttle contraption is not the cause.

[Deleted]

OK, I had the same problem with my 539 S carb. It would not idle down. With the stop screw clear off the stop, and mixture screw set for the slowest smooth idle, I had too fast a idle. Did the whole distributor thing, timing, vacuum, leaks, valve settings, everything. Ended up the throttle shaft was leaking past the butterfly internally. The shaft has to fit correctly next to the butterfly in order for the port located there to meter fuel correctly in the low speed circuit. Try another carb on your engine that runs fine and is a known good one. That will eliminate the rest. Another thing I tried was the slow speed idle circuit jet. Some are drilled larger than others. It changes the needle mixture screw setting. Our friend and mentor , Mr. Scout pilot, is the king to see. You may need some throttle base work. Oilly

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Oh, lose the conduit clamp Moosey! There is a correct clamp that goes there. Now, go ahead and insult me on my T84. I deserve it. My next move on that is either a new mainshaft, or rebush 2nd gear, even though it's new. I think it's wobbling a bit too much on the shaft and kicking me back out of 2nd. Too bad it's such a long painful way back in.

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Feb 7, 2016 10:04:21 GMT -5 @oilleaker1 said:

Too bad it's such a long painful way back in.

What the hell are you talking about? Go start a new thread about your new age, broke back mountain cowboy action elsewhere! And take your tranny talk with you.



Ok...I've already been on the hunt for the conduit replacement. I've located a period photograph of the AWOL part. I've rummaged through my carburetor spare parts box and rebuild kits. No spare. My other, dilapidated carb does not have it either. WTF? It looks fairly simple. I could probably make one...won't be gorgeous, but it will probably be less offensive than the conduit clip.

But that is losing focus of the main problem. The only known legimate working carb in this area sits perched atop HGs non-used jeep. Hmmmmmmmm.....


The rain has stopped. Maybe in a minute I'll push her into the driveway and start her up, let her warm to temp and then see what the lollipop does.

[Deleted]

Here is one more thought....

The vacuum gauge needle is not drop dead still. It fluctuates or bounces between 19-20 at idle. Give it the throttle and drops way down, rebounds maybe just beyond 21 and then settles between 19-20 again with that little flicker. I'm guessing the needle should be drop dead still at idle? Valves slightly off?

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You may have a sticky valve, but that’s not the cause of the issue under discussion.

I have the parts you are looking for. Just ask.

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Oilly, Scout and Cap'n...I put the money shot of your conduit clamp at the end of the video. I might ask HG to brass coat it for me.

Scout...I found an almost lookalike substitute for the throttle clamp: an original WW2 wire clip. I think it's the clip that hold the speedometer to suppression straps on the firewall. I'll ask you for a bonafide clip if I need to send you my carb.

The engine temp got up to 110ish or so and the lollipop had already risen to horizontal.


PS....after I turned the video off, I sprayed carb cleaner around the manifold, carb base and in the general vicinity of the throttle shaft. I did not hear the RPMs increase.

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What is the size of the low speed jet?

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What sort of measurement am I looking for: length, width, height, diameter of opening? All of them?

I see on my diagram "low speed jet assembly". Is that what I'm looking for?

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The low speed jet is the long thin tube that screws in from the flat top. It is under the only cap that is horizontal on top. Standard internal size is a #71 drill bit for your carb.

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Moosey are you off the throttle stop in the video? If so, you got carburator problems. Send it to Scout. He'll remove that WW2 conduit clamp which is rare, and sell it for 500 bucks. Two things you should be able to do: notice a idle change and then a engine that dies as you close the mixture screw, and with a good idle, you should be able to slow the engine down with the stop screw until it dies. I think you covered the rest of the checks. By the way, if you don't like my tranny interjections, you and the horse you rode in on can go #$%^ @#$%!@#$. Want to go camping?

[Deleted]

Why not walk across the street and barrow detards carburator. .?

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Feb 7, 2016 17:59:49 GMT -5 @lee said:

Why not walk across the street and barrow detards carburator. .?

Because I do not know for a fact that it is a good one.



Scout....I don't have a #71. I have a #76. It fits without any issues. My next smallest drill mic'ed at .91 mm. It was way to fat!

The picture is the one I just now pulled from the carb (left) and the one that came with the carb (right). I think one might be narrower, but I bet it is an optical illusion.

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Well my friend…It looks like someone tried to rebuild your carb with the wrong parts. Neither of those you showed me is correct for the WO. A #71 drill bit is .026”. Let’s see now, .91 mm =.035in = #65 bit. If that fits into the Jet, you have a serious problem, ala my first statement.

[Deleted]

I did pull out the correct part you wanted me to check, correct?

My #76 drill bit is smaller than the #71. I think it measured at .02 mm. It fit the hole with room to spare. The other bit (.91) was ginormous.

The replacement kit was purchased from Ron many years ago. Have you ever heard of those kits being off?

Since I don't have an actual #71 drill bit to check precisely, I might clean up the one that I pulled out of the carb originally (7 years ago) and put it back in.

I also have what I think is a postwar carb (take off/non-working) in a box I can pull the jet out of, too.

I'm sure you are rolling your eyes at all of these suggestions.

Oilly...in the video I posted, everything was hooked up and in working order. I.E the throttle screw, throttle stop, etc. yes, I can turn either the idle mixture or stop screw to the point that the engine dies.

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Feb 8, 2016 5:43:27 GMT -5 “@themoose74” said:

I did pull out the correct part you wanted me to check, correct? Yes you did.

My #76 drill bit is smaller than the #71. I think it measured at .02 mm. It fit the hole with room to spare. True enough, it will. The other bit (.91) was ginormous. Were you able to insert this one into the jet?

The replacement kit was purchased from Ron many years ago. Have you ever heard of those kits being off? Yes, I have. The one on the left appears to have been ground shorter. The one on the right I typically see in a YF kit.

Since I don’t have an actual #71 drill bit to check precisely, I might clean up the one that I pulled out of the carb originally (7 years ago) and put it back in. Won’t hurt to try.

I also have what I think is a postwar carb (take off/non-working) in a box I can pull the jet out of, too. Again, won’t hurt to try.

I’m sure you are rolling your eyes at all of these suggestions. NO sir. No I’m not. I’ve seen much, much worse.

Oilly...in the video I posted, everything was hooked up and in working order. I.E the throttle screw, throttle stop, etc. yes, I can turn either the idle mixture or stop screw to the point that the engine dies.

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Feb 8, 2016 7:15:07 GMT -5 @scoutpilot said:

Feb 8, 2016 5:43:27 GMT -5 “@themoose74” said:

I did pull out the correct part you wanted me to check, correct? Yes you did.

My #76 drill bit is smaller than the #71. I think it measured at .02 mm. It fit the hole with room to spare. True enough, it will. The other bit (.91) was ginormous. Were you able to insert this one into the jet? Negative. The ginormous (.91) bit did not come anywhere close to fitting.

The replacement kit was purchased from Ron many years ago. Have you ever heard of those kits being off? Yes, I have. The one on the left appears to have been ground shorter. The one on the right I typically see in a YF kit. Insane. But I guess it shouldn't be surprising. Anything is possible through he decades. The one on the left came from the kit (ground short) and the one on the right was originally found in the carb.

Since I don’t have an actual #71 drill bit to check precisely, I might clean up the one that I pulled out of the carb originally (7 years ago) and put it back in. Won’t hurt to try.

I also have what I think is a postwar carb (take off/non-working) in a box I can pull the jet out of, too. Again, won’t hurt to try.
I'll check it out after work today. I believe I also have a second kit purchased from Ron just two or so years ago. Fort curiosity's sake, I am going to see what parts are still sitting in it.

I’m sure you are rolling your eyes at all of these suggestions. NO sir. No I’m not. I’ve seen much, much worse.


Oilly...in the video I posted, everything was hooked up and in working order. I.E the throttle screw, throttle stop, etc. yes, I can turn either the idle mixture or stop screw to the point that the engine dies.

That is pretty cool what you have done thus far, Scout. Obviously you know these things like the back of your hand, but from my point of view, it was magical how you said seemingly out of nowhere, "check the low speed jet".

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Since you can kill the engine with the adjustments, a proper kit in your carb or trying another carb would be the next move. Original jets compared to omix ada jets will shock you. Chi Com strikes again. Scout has the right stuff. Selling all this crap that doesn't fit or work is like fraud or theft. Once they sting me, I don't go back. MD Juan is one of them. I've never seen them re-imburse a guy who helps them straighten out their mess. I had a M38A1 gas tank with about 400.00 bucks spent, had to re-work it all, and the list is long. Still ended up too tall to install the seat. NOS or original stuff is the way to go. I'd buy a Scout Pilot carb long before a solex . The simple little WO Carter is the best L134 carburator in my opinion.

[Deleted]

Ok....here is the latest:




From LEFT to RIGHT
1.  The jet I originally found in my carb when purchased (possibly YJ)
2.  Jet just pulled out of what I think is a post war CJ carb
3.  The jet I had currently been using found in Ron's kit from 7 years ago.
4.  Unused jet pulled out of a Ron kit purchased 2 years ago.


Same order as above.  Hard to see in the old jets (left).  Nora isn't here to hold them!



Modern jets from Ron. 7 y/o Used on the bottom, 2 y/o new on top. I think the newer one has a slightly long tip.

Scout...the carburetor does not appear to be bushed. It's easier to see beneath the float bowl. If there is a bushing, it's the worlds smallest!

I guess it's time to install the newer, unused jet and see what happens?

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Scout...I believe you nailed the diagnosis. I swapped the jets out and put in the one with the slightly longer tip (Ron kit from 2 years ago).

With the throttle cable screw loose, I was able to back out the throttle stop screw significantly. I could then play with the idle mixture screw and watch the vacuum gauge lower and listen to the jeep begin to gasp. So back in with the screw to a healthy level.

In the video, the RPMs on the tach gauge look to be very close to 700/min. I was able to get them lower...actually less than 600/min, but the engine didn't sound great. However, that could very easily just be my ears since they aren't used to the sound. I might be too chicken to have them that low. Up until yesterday at 900ish RPMs, I've never heard that engine idle less than 1100/1200 a min.

Also...I cannot explain this...the infrequent exhaust pop is gone.

I am thrilled right now! It was the arrow, not the Indian!!

THANK YOU SO MUCH for sticking with me on this.



I guess now I need to put reversing the distributor on my calendar for Lee.

[jeffwho]

Awesome! Amazing that Scout could diagnose that from your description!

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I know, RIGHT!?! He knew it, and just had me verify it by pulling out that jet. Even though I couldn't adequately measure it, he ID'd it by just looking at my crappy picture.

7 years, man. 7 YEARS! Here, I always figured it was my shoddy craftsmanship. Conduit clamp and all. Chi com part, in the end. I never would've gone there.