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Post by Deleted on Aug 29, 2015 12:25:17 GMT -5
The leak is puzzling, coolant is most likely seeping up through the head bolt threads and weeping out the drivers side. Did you seal the head bolt threads with permatex ?, or install them dry ?. generally no sealer is used on a head gasket, most fiber ones have "Install Dry" stamped into the gasket..... was the block "Decked" (top of the block resurfaced)..... Also I always recommend a copper gasket, it bothers me you are having trouble, I went to copper for the same reason, as a fiber gasket was unsealable on my L head.....Were it me, I would try a can of "Bars Leaks", if it seals, your out $10, if not your out $10 and a head gasket.
Lee
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Post by Deleted on Aug 29, 2015 16:50:59 GMT -5
Say, just thought of something! I rebuilt the heater core, and when I hooked it up it was leaking. I closed the heater valve on top of the block at back and redid the core. When I reinstalled the heater and turned it on, I was having the coolant leak just like Keith says. What I found out was that I didn't have the valve opened up tight! It appears that at least the valve I have has to be either opened tight or shut tight! Who knows, it happened to me!!
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Post by Deleted on Aug 29, 2015 20:03:07 GMT -5
Both the head and block was milled. I have not installed a heater yet, I put silicone on the threads of the head bolts as I inastalled them. Guess I could drain the block put the heater in pull the head bolts and put permagasket on them and try that. I hate the thought of pulling the head. I want to move onto the M38, its serial number starts 21---
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Post by Deleted on Aug 29, 2015 20:36:41 GMT -5
Silicone is not the sealant of choice on head bolts, as it sets up, and as you re-torque you tear the set up silicone and lose the seal. #2 Permatex  as it stays soft. I would drain the coolant and remove each bolt one at a time, flush the hole out with either (it smells the best, and cleans the best) blow the hell out of it with compressed air, install the bolt with a liberal (tough in Wyoming I know) coating of #2 Permatex. Lee |
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Post by rudycon on Aug 31, 2015 21:03:23 GMT -5
My lark head is cracked at one of the head bolt holes. Machinist shrugged it off as it will only leak into the bolt hole (then down the threads and into the crankcase so I used extra permatex ultra copper (my favorite) down that hole.) This crack doesn't affect compression, just water. We put some epoxy over the cracks to keep them dry. So far so good.
Maybe you have a similar crack? We didn't see it until we mangafluxed the head.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 2, 2015 7:27:20 GMT -5
Did you seal the copper gasket or install dry? Even with a copper gasket I'll spray copper sealant on it. You might want to take a closer look at the top of the block and the bottom of the head for gouges, scratches and check them both for flatness. Both head and block were milled, I checked them with a square, they seemed flat. This is the first time I put an engine together without copper coat gasket spray on the head gasket. The place I bought the copper gasket from said to install dry, torque the head run the engine, retorque the head and do it again. The head has been torqued a total of 3 times. Think I'll try what the Captain suggested, I'll try to be liberal it's going to be tough, Who knows I might like it. |
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Post by Deleted on Sept 2, 2015 7:29:46 GMT -5
Silicone is not the sealant of choice on head bolts, as it sets up, and as you re-torque you tear the set up silicone and lose the seal. #2 Permatex as it stays soft. I would drain the coolant and remove each bolt one at a time, flush the hole out with either (it smells the best, and cleans the best) blow the hell out of it with compressed air, install the bolt with a liberal (tough in Wyoming I know) coating of #2 Permatex. Lee Blow the hell out of it after you inhaled the either. Sounds like perfectly liberal thing to do. |
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Post by Deleted on Sept 3, 2015 17:39:27 GMT -5
Silicone is not the sealant of choice on head bolts, as it sets up, and as you re-torque you tear the set up silicone and lose the seal. #2 Permatex as it stays soft. I would drain the coolant and remove each bolt one at a time, flush the hole out with either (it smells the best, and cleans the best) blow the hell out of it with compressed air, install the bolt with a liberal (tough in Wyoming I know) coating of #2 Permatex. Lee Blow the hell out of it after you inhaled the either. Sounds like perfectly liberal thing to do.  |
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Post by Deleted on Sept 14, 2015 21:50:18 GMT -5
>:(I looked at every parts store in town, couldn't find any sprayable either. So I used some starting fluid, that worked fairly well to clean the head bolts and bolt holes. Blew the bolt holes dry and coated the head bolts liberally with permatex #2. So far there are no coolant puddles when I park, the coolant seep seems to have stopped. Who knows maybe them Minniesodains know what their doin. If we could only teach correct pronunciation it is WILLIES! Thanks Lee
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Post by Deleted on Sept 15, 2015 3:54:57 GMT -5
Pssst! Psssst! Ahem! (Stage whisper) Starting fluid IS ether. Once you learn how to correctly pronounce the name, Willys, you will learn a lot. 
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Post by Deleted on Sept 15, 2015 6:29:56 GMT -5
Pssst! Psssst! Ahem! (Stage whisper) Starting fluid IS ether. Once you learn how to correctly pronounce the name, Willys, you will learn a lot. X2, exactly what he said! |
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Post by Deleted on Sept 16, 2015 7:25:41 GMT -5
Grumpy hangs out with the enlightened side. Not a darkie! |
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Post by Deleted on Sept 16, 2015 10:55:17 GMT -5
That's the problem with you guys...
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Post by Deleted on Feb 28, 2016 14:50:00 GMT -5
Drove the 3b yesterday, the best top survived the breeze we had yesterday 60mph head wind + 50mph speedometer. Took it out this morning put over 50 miles on it. Had to try low range. Last year at FCT it kept jumping out of low range. I was getting ready to pull the t-case when I found the anti rattle spring had the top missing and let the rest fall between the body tub and the lever. Low range was not fully engaging, seems to work like it should now. Time will tell have to try it in SD this spring. Now back to the M38!
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Post by Deleted on Feb 29, 2016 7:10:02 GMT -5
Chop Chop. You're bringing the M38 to the hills right?
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Post by Deleted on Feb 29, 2016 18:22:00 GMT -5
And I'm sure one of them is getting a trip to Canada EH??
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Post by Deleted on Feb 29, 2016 19:22:12 GMT -5
Hey Chuckie, you are back! Who let you out? |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 29, 2016 19:30:56 GMT -5
It will be The 3B for both trips. Been working on the TR3, the M38 is still on the backburner. But I will drive the M38 before HG drives his 2A.
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Post by athawk11 on Feb 29, 2016 20:22:04 GMT -5
It will be The 3B for both trips. Been working on the TR3, the M38 is still on the backburner. But I will drive the M38 before HG drives his 2A. I wanted to laugh out loud, but HG might get mad at me again...so I just giggled a little...under my breath...in my closet...with a sock in my mouth. Tim |
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Post by Haines Garage on Feb 29, 2016 20:36:40 GMT -5
It will be The 3B for both trips. Been working on the TR3, the M38 is still on the backburner. But I will drive the M38 before HG drives his 2A. I wanted to laugh out loud, but HG might get mad at me again...so I just giggled a little...under my breath...in my closet...with a sock in my mouth. Tim I could never be mad at you Ole Friend. You are one of the kindest souls I have ever met. And ..... It's the details.. The stuff that you missed, the things beyond your control that take up all the productive time. |
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Post by Haines Garage on Feb 29, 2016 20:41:16 GMT -5
It will be The 3B for both trips. Been working on the TR3, the M38 is still on the backburner. But I will drive the M38 before HG drives his 2A. Bastage!!! |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 29, 2016 21:27:10 GMT -5
It will be The 3B for both trips. Been working on the TR3, the M38 is still on the backburner. But I will drive the M38 before HG drives his 2A. Bastage!!! Boy HG, your Shute have these bafoon bastages buffaloed, I bet your well over 100 miles. |
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Post by Haines Garage on Mar 5, 2016 20:42:29 GMT -5
Yawn.....
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as it stays soft. I would drain the coolant and remove each bolt one at a time, flush the hole out with either (it smells the best, and cleans the best) blow the hell out of it with compressed air, install the bolt with a liberal (tough in Wyoming I know) coating of #2 Permatex.
