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Post by Haines Garage on Oct 31, 2013 19:06:55 GMT -5
Sir Hawkridge, did you get the frame back yet from the blaster?  |
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Post by athawk11 on Nov 2, 2013 8:20:08 GMT -5
HG, Funny you should mention that. The Foundation…The damage to the frame was not anticipated. This set me back a couple months. The cross tube was removed. This allowed me to straighten the long rails… While the tube was out, I cleaned up the ends and patched a few areas that were getting thin…   I leveled and plumbed the frame, checked measurements, clamped it all into position, then welded it all back together…  Once the structural issues were addressed, I had it sandblasted…  Even though my sandblaster does a great job of removing rust, I still use a rust encapsulating primer called Master Series Silver. I’ve used it before. Great stuff. Kind of tough to tell the difference, but this photo shows the frame after it was primed with the Silver…  New to me is the chassis coating, by the same company, called AG 111. It’s a 2 part system. Once on, it is impervious to nearly all chemical or fluid attacks. It is UV stable, unlike POR15. I chose the Satin Black. It is the closest to the Semi-Gloss that was used for the frame. I like it…   Did you notice my tub hanging from the rafters? I’m getting a little tight on room! So, with the ‘Foundation’ complete, we all know what this means…Time to bolt it all back on. Next up: Axles, springs and brakes. |
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Post by Haines Garage on Nov 2, 2013 21:36:29 GMT -5
Sir Hawkridge...Blast Job is AWESOME!!! What A deal. What coating did you use on the frame?  Also I looked back and could not find...what year is Whitey? Soon to be Sir Yellow the Trasher ;D ;D ;D ;D  |
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Post by Haines Garage on Nov 3, 2013 16:33:00 GMT -5
Nice talking with you today...Bending the ole Hawks ear...
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Post by athawk11 on Nov 12, 2013 11:09:43 GMT -5
The front axle has some good news, and bad.  I sandblasted, then primed it. Once I pulled the differential cover, I discovered the first challenge. The spider gears were missing some teeth…  I ordered some parts from Walcks, then quickly studied up on how to take the axle apart. It's really is amazing how simple this axle is. I removed the axle retainers. This allows you to pull the axle shafts out of the axle housing. I then removed the king pins. I removed the old axle seals and pulled the knuckle housing off. I cleaned everything up. This is when I discovered the next problem…   These are the king pin bearings. They are toast. There were no king pins shims, thus no proper preload. Clearly, replacement bearings need to be ordered. The axles and knuckle bearings look new, along with these bearings and cups…  ![]() i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa397/athawk11/athawk11%20Willys%20White/image_zpsd6e2606a.jpg[/IMG] It’s strange to find many parts in ‘like new’ condition, and others that are broken and neglected. Time to re-assemble this axle. This is such a greasy job. It’s hard to take photos of the process. I removed the ring gear from the carrier. I removed this pin…  This is when I discovered that the ring gear and carrier had to be removed from the housing before I could get at the spider gears. Once out of the differential housing, the large retainer pin will slide out, releasing the spider gears. I pulled the old gears out, then slid the new set in without any difficulty. I re-inserted the pins, greased up the bearings and cups, re-installed the ring gear, then reset the carrier into the differential housing. I tightened the bearing caps to spec….   Time to set the new king pin bearings. I greased them up real good, then slipped the knuckle housing into position. I have the old style knuckle housings, so I need to add shims to both the upper and lower king pins. There was quite a bit of trial and error. I had to installed and remove the king pins four times before I reached the proper preload. I settled on 10 lbs of pressure with a fish scale. You would think the other side would need the same amount of shims. Not in my case. I had to set, then remove the other side three times before I reached my goal.   I installed the new knuckle seals, then slid in the axle shafts. I temporarily reset the axle retainers until I’m ready to install the brake backing plates. This repair took me longer than I thought it would. 6 hours. This included the cleaning. I hate cleaning.   |
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Post by Deleted on Nov 16, 2013 18:47:39 GMT -5
This is very nic to follow.
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Post by athawk11 on Nov 17, 2013 9:11:13 GMT -5
This is very nic to follow. Thank you for taking a look. It has been quite a challenge so far. Perhaps this should have been stripped down then junked. I guess it's too late for that now. Tim |
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Post by Haines Garage on Nov 17, 2013 21:32:22 GMT -5
Tim, not for nothing , but isn't the finish on this one going to be Yellowee ;D ;D ;D ;D |
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Post by athawk11 on Nov 30, 2013 15:19:39 GMT -5
youtu.be/VmY49oihm90[youtube]<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/VmY49oihm90" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> [/youtube]
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Post by Ryan_M on Nov 30, 2013 15:26:06 GMT -5
too funny tim! I will chuckle every time I see a bell crank now.....
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Post by Haines Garage on Nov 30, 2013 17:38:55 GMT -5
Now thats the spirit!!  ;D ;D ;D ;D We can have some fun like this now........ |
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Post by Deleted on Nov 30, 2013 19:33:32 GMT -5
LOL, he reminds me of the snake oil salesman in "the outlaw Josey Whales",,,,,,,,,and he kept a straight face, very impressive........One question Tim, how did you form the repair piece for the front toob, is it a piece of toob or did you roll a flat piece ?. Lee ps,,,,maybe Governor Hawkridge is in his future |
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Post by athawk11 on Dec 1, 2013 10:06:32 GMT -5
Hey Fellas. Just thought I'd try to give you a laugh. Don't think I'll be this dramatic for every part. ;D I did install the bell crank last night. Both axles are painted and curing. I'm currently cleaning up the backing plates and drums for the 41. Lee, I rolled a flat piece of steel for the tube repair. I didn't think of cutting an existing tube. That would have been easier.  |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 1, 2013 10:46:56 GMT -5
Lee, I rolled a flat piece of steel for the tube repair. I didn't think of cutting an existing tube. That would have been easier. Tim do you have a roller or did you do it by hand, I do not see any hammer marks in it, Excellent job by the way! |
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Post by athawk11 on Dec 6, 2013 11:39:18 GMT -5
Tim, not for nothing , but isn't the finish on this one going to be Yellowee ;D ;D ;D ;D Yes HG, Whitey will be yellow, but the running gear will be the traditional black. Lee, thanks for the comments on the tube repair. If you look closely at the photos, you will see ridge marks. I set the flat stock in my vise, heated it a bit with a torch, then bent it. I did this a dozen times to reach the shape I was going for. I find it difficult to get stuff done this time of year. Cold weather and the string of holidays can chew up my resolve. Weather guy says we will have lows around -10 degrees, with highs in the teens. I don’t have a heated garage. Bummer. I opened up the rear axle. I was happy to find the gears, bearings, seals and races to be near new…    I should have known it would look good. Check out the diff cover…   Clearly, there was a major issue at some point. The repair job on the cover is sloppy. I have a hard time knowing it looks this way. Looks like Bretto in Utah has saved me from running around with a really bad diff cover. By the way, if you saw my video, I'm happy to report the bell crank was successfully installed on the frame. Life is good. Tim |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 6, 2013 19:24:26 GMT -5
WOW! , musta grenade at one time, And yes it looks tough (the cover) but one must admire the creativity of the repairman, "function before beauty" ;D. I will also agree on the working in the cold comment, for the most part I work outside, my garage has a wood stove, so after a day out in the cold it's not really appealing to head out to the cold garage, It was -6 at 9 am today, and my gloves have fingers on them ;D. Lee |
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Post by athawk11 on Dec 17, 2013 13:21:55 GMT -5
I was offered a very nice Dana 41 differential cover. Many of you know Bretto from the other Willys forums. He helped me out. Now Whitey will look good leaving!! The weather has cooperated over the last week or so. I was able to clean the shop and start the chassis re-assembly. This is far and away my favorite part. The bulk of scraping crud, wire wheel work, sandblasting etc, is behind me. I’ve accumulated the majority of parts needed. I still get caught on occasion. One set of old axle u-bolts were cut too short by the PO. ( I went to the 10 leaf spring pack on the front, and the bolts don’t reach anymore.) The axles and springs have been installed. On the last Willys, I installed the wheels, tires, and leaf springs to the axle, then just steered that assembly under the frame. That approach works pretty well. On this one, I had just finished repainting the drums, so I needed to come up with something different. I bolted the rear of the leaf springs, set the axle on them, then jacked the springs up to install the spring shackles. This works fairly well too. The hard part was getting the heavy axle into position without scratching paint, or breaking my back…     I learned something new. Now, we all know the driver front, and passenger rear get the left hand thread shackles. What I didn’t know is that only the spring eye side of the shackle is left hand thread. The frame side of the shackle is still right hand thread. I vaguely remember being very confused when fighting the shackles onto my OD Willys. Mystery solved. All in all, it was a good day. Next up, Brakes and brake lines. Thanks for looking in. Tim |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 17, 2013 19:04:56 GMT -5
Looks real good. Bretto is everywhere, like the rest of us. A true jeep enthusiast. Lots of changes going on in the Jeep world. I hope to keep a good friendly attitude to all. John
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Post by Deleted on Dec 17, 2013 20:24:59 GMT -5
Tim....I agree...building the chassis is one of my favorite, if not THE favorite part of the rebuild for me, too. You are doing an impeccable job. Leaf spring hangars always dumbfound me, as well. I have found A LOT of of them have been welded at some point of their life. That really makes it hard trying to determine left or right threaded!  Bo |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 18, 2013 18:21:46 GMT -5
Sure is Purdy.... Drool drool.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 18, 2013 20:53:05 GMT -5
On "Project Red Ass" I am doing just the opposite, Body first, to me the chassis is all mechanical, nuts and bolts, I think I can cover that easily, so the challenge is in the body for me, I am not a body guy, even on the beginner level. great work by the way, on whitey. Lee |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 18, 2013 23:31:43 GMT -5
Oh, I admit that the body is the most challenging and gratifying to do. But the chassis is just plain fun!
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Post by Haines Garage on Dec 18, 2013 23:53:05 GMT -5
Yes Sir, looks very nice. You are definitely the Shizzle.
Wish I lived closer, but we would probably get in BIG trouble.
Nice job Hawk...
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Post by athawk11 on Dec 24, 2013 10:18:51 GMT -5
Hey fellas. Merry Christmas!!! Just a quick progress report...and a review. I enjoy double flaring brake lines, but decided to treat myself to a pre-made kit from Walcks. Made in the USA. This kit is designed for the ‘49 3A, or the later 2A with the Dana 41 rear and 25 front axles. The kit is nicely done, and comes with clamps and differential clips. Two lines required some minor tweaking. (From master cylinder to forward frame position, and the small piece from the axle mounted distributor to the driver side axle mount.) Overall, a very nice kit…     Someone chime in if I don't have the clamps and clips in the right place. I wasn't sure, so I put them in the most obvious positions. Over on the '3A', Bruce W mentioned the clamps need to be rotated. Any other mistakes? Next up, installing the assembled brakes system for each wheel. Then, maybe the rebuilt steering system. Tim |
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Post by Haines Garage on Dec 25, 2013 13:06:17 GMT -5
Looking Very Nice Sir Hawkridge !
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;D ;D ;D ;D 
