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Post by athawk11 on Jan 4, 2014 22:05:22 GMT -5
I was able to get a little bit more done. Bearings packed and brakes installed.   The drums installed..  New differential cover installed. Thanks Bretto...  Also, new tie rods and tie rod ends are on, along with the rebuilt steering box...   I still need to rebuild the drag link, but other than that, the steering system is ready. There are a few minor things that still need attention, but for the most part, the chassis is done? Time to start messing with the heart of the Willys. If you've been following this thread, you may remember that the engine ran pretty nice before I tore the Willys apart. So, I don't think we will have to go in too deep, but we will see. Thanks for looking. Tim |
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Post by Haines Garage on Jan 4, 2014 23:01:12 GMT -5
Looking very Nice, where are you purchasing those star style lock washers I see all over the place. Also is your front drum a one piece, I am saying with the hub housing and drum as one?
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Post by rudycon on Jan 5, 2014 0:08:52 GMT -5
Wow. You do amazing work. Quite an inspiration. I appreciate your craftsmanship and attention to detail. I have an idea of how many hours of cleaning parts you have in your project.
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Post by athawk11 on Jan 6, 2014 22:35:55 GMT -5
HG, the drums are the original design with the hub on the outside of the drum. I did have to replace a couple studs on one rear drum. There was a mix of left hand and right hand studs. Talk about a potential nightmare.
I get the star washers at NAPA and Home Depot.
Rudy, thanks for the generous comments. Cleaning, blasting, wire wheeling, sanding, scraping, scrubbing...by far are my least favorite things to do. As we all know, this is a necessary evil on these little wonders. I haven't kept track, but I would guess that a 2 year restoration would be reduced to 1, if they were at least partially clean and rust free.
Tim
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Post by athawk11 on Feb 3, 2014 20:56:26 GMT -5
Not sure how interesting the engine stuff is to folks here, so I thought I would give some piece meal info. If anyone has questions or comments about this stuff, let me know. We start with an engine that performed poorly in a leak down test. No air escape to the water jacket. No escape through the intake or exhaust valves. Air was gushing into the oil jacket. Disassembly showed the rings weren’t the right size and had an end gap from 3/16” to 5/8” inch. Crazy. Manual call for .007 to .017 for an acceptable end gap. I had my neighbor come by with a cylinder bore gauge. The cylinders measured out consistently 3.184” to 3.185” Good for a .060 over engine. This bore matched the .060 over pistons, which are near new. The crank had been machined to .020 under. The main and rod bearings are all near new and match the crank size. The cylinders were not properly cross hatch honed. They were polished smooth as a babies bottom. I ordered a new Flex Hone and rings. I honed the cylinders. They turned out good. With soap and hot water, I scrubbed the inside and outside of the engine until there was no honing residue left on the clean micro fiber cloth. It took 6 scrub downs to get it clean. I installed the new rear main seal using this guide… www.youtube.com/watch?v=kSQWlnvAIbI I thoroughly cleaned the crank and main bearings, then reinstalled them. I’ve started to paint the engine parts. The engine was red when I found it, so it will be red again. Up next… finish painting and reassembly. I’ll install it on the frame and do a compression test. A personal point…There is no one more nervous about taking a L-134 engine apart than me. But once you do it, you’ll wonder what your fears were all about. With the amount of information available from the manuals and the world wide web, it really is pretty hard to mess it up. I am hopeful this engine will be a decent runner. Only time will tell. Thanks for looking. Tim Main and rod journals turned to .020 under…  Guides, valves, springs are near new and were re-seated recently  Bearing condition is near new  Aluminum Oil Pump.  Honing the cylinders…  Cleaning up the block…  Head cleaned…   Picked this up on Ebay. I believe this is the correct design for a very early ’49 3A…  Picked up a new front plate from Quadratec…  Some additional parts ready for paint. It’s too cold to hit them right now…   And finally, the new engine color scheme…  |
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Post by Haines Garage on Feb 3, 2014 21:17:47 GMT -5
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Post by Ryan_M on Feb 3, 2014 21:21:50 GMT -5
I, like you, would be terrified crawling around inside an engine. Under the right circumstances, however, I really look forward to trying it at some point. As much info as you can post on this topic will be readily consumed by me and likely many others. Your progress so far is outstanding and gives hope to the rest of us bloody-knuckled-shade-tree-mechanics. Don't hold back on any of the gory details. Very fascinating stuff.
The red looks great btw.
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Post by athawk11 on Feb 18, 2014 23:45:54 GMT -5
I decided I better add an update before HG kicks me to the curb.... The weather has been better, so I've been able to get some things done. I got the crank, rings and pistons installed. Lots of care. Lots of assembly lube...   Gears back on and aligned for proper timing...  The engine block is painted. I really like the way it's turning out...    This is an older 3A engine with a newer flywheel. There are no marks on the flywheel. I had no marks on the older timing cover, so with some help from Randy, and some careful measurements, I was able to add them. I stamped the marks in with a cold chisel, then painted them white. This is the end result...  I must say, it sure is easy to find TDC with the engine taken apart. I continue to repaint and reassemble the engine. Water pump is back on. Distributor is cleaned up and back in. The oil pump and head are up next. I am going to do a leak down test to see if there is an improvement. I anticipate a decent reduction in air loss, and expect the reading will improve even more once the rings have a chance to seat. We will see. Tim |
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Post by Haines Garage on Feb 19, 2014 22:00:12 GMT -5
Sir Hawkridge...Looking Great! You are the Master! I would never kick you to the curb!    ... You are one of my "all time Favorite Will-IS! Guys! UNLOCK THE WILLIS POLL! |
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Post by athawk11 on Feb 22, 2014 6:47:33 GMT -5
Sir Hawkridge...Looking Great! You are the Master! I would never kick you to the curb! ... You are one of my "all time Favorite Will-IS! Guys! UNLOCK THE WILLIS POLL! Thanks HG, but I'm a Will eeeze guy. Will that make a difference? I thought I unlocked that pole a long time ago. Maybe I messed that up too?  Tim |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 22, 2014 11:53:51 GMT -5
Tim, the engine looks great!, I like the red paint as well. I will assume you are very much enjoying the engine work, as it is drastically different from the body you rebuilt.  Lee  |
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Post by athawk11 on Mar 3, 2014 13:39:02 GMT -5
Lee, I really have enjoyed the engine part of this project. I learned a bunch of new stuff along this path, but unfortunately, it has set the schedule back a couple months. I am still hopeful to have this done by this summer. Slowly, the engine is coming back together. Head seal and cylinder head are back on...   The oil pump and distributor are installed…  Gas pedal linkage is also installed. I did this a little early, but didn’t want to forget prior to setting the tub… Fan, and front pulley are set...  Oil pan and pulley guard are on…   Valve cover and manifolds are installed. I use a 2000 degree paint for the exhaust manifold. I used this on my OD green Willys and it has held up surprisingly well...   And one more glamour shot…  I just need to clean up the fuel pump, starter, generator, bell housing and the oil filter housing before I set it into the frame for testing. I’m leaning toward painting the oil filter housing, FRAM orange like the original, but fear the orange and red will clash. What to do? What to do? Thanks for looking in. Tim |
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Post by Haines Garage on Mar 3, 2014 16:44:01 GMT -5
THAT Engine Looks FANTASTIC..
You Must have a manual....
Now for the questions,
I noticed a sort of two tone on the exhaust and intake manifolds.
Two different paints?
Did you oven cure the 2000 deg stuff?
Are you using all new or original hardware?
Did you find any sort of spacers on the bolts for that Awesome pulley splash plate?
Now comments.
That engine is a black and red work of art.
I would paint the fram oil filter with black.
Just my opinion .
With a lisp....
That orange will simply just clash..
Silly!!!!
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Post by athawk11 on Mar 3, 2014 20:03:46 GMT -5
Thanks HG! The intake manifold was painted with the Master Series Silver and AG111 chassis coating. The exhaust is painted with the 2000 degree-high heat rattle can paint on the shelf at Home Depot. It requires a 3 step baking then cooling process. My wife didn't seem to mind the stinky smell it puts off. The hardware that is unique or special length is all original. Example are the oil pump, valve cover, oil pan, head and manifold studs, and of course, all internal hardware for bearings, rods etc... The rest is new. Head nuts, timing cover, water pump, water intake, fan, intake and exhaust manifold, and any other visible nuts and bolts. I know you know this, but I will elaborate anyway. There are six spacers on the six front oil pan bolts that are required between the oil pan and the pulley guard. They are essentially fat washers that maintain proper spacing. Without them, the pulley guard would not sit correctly on the face of the oil pan. It would be impossible to put the proper torque on the front bolts without disfiguring the pulley guard. They are about 3/16" +/- thick. Roughly the same thickness of the lip on the oil pan. I'm still vexed by the filter housing. I've already painted the cap black, as was the original color scheme. Painting the body black may be too much 'black' up there. How about a black body with a red cap? I'm vexed...terribly vexed!  Tim |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 3, 2014 21:09:22 GMT -5
Leave the cap black, paint the body the same red as the rest of the engine, and the straps, if they're removeable, black. BW
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Post by athawk11 on Mar 14, 2014 11:13:02 GMT -5
I finally made a decision on the color for the oil filter housing. I settled on this...  It's right out in front. Decided the engine colors were the best choice. Is it possible to be excited, yet sad, at the same time? I've been cleaning up some engine components. I got to the coil and found it is an Autolite 12v coil, Made In The USA. Excited to see a still working electrical part that was made here...but sad to know the days where Americans made things like this are all but gone.   I'm not sure if this fuel pump will be up for the task, but it sounds good when I hand turn the engine. I cleaned it up and bolted it on.  Got a generator bracket on eBay. Cleaned up the 12v Delco rebuilt generator and bolted it on. The front bottom mounting flange was broken. I was worried it was cast iron. I welded a new piece on. Worked just fine. Must be cast steel.   Up next, bell housing, clutch and tranny. I have something interesting planned for the bell housing. I followed Bretto's move and bought a sealed bearing for the front of the tranny. I'm debating with myself whether or not to remove the inner seal on the bearing. We will see. Tim |
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Post by Haines Garage on Mar 14, 2014 16:20:08 GMT -5
Looking Superb
I like the color on the oil filter.
If that engine runs as good as it looks......Oh Boy!
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Post by rudycon on Mar 14, 2014 16:29:45 GMT -5
Beautiful workmanship. I like the pully guard. what a nicely shaped piece of steel.
Hey I have a question about the oil fill cap. Is that constructed entirely of metal? I THINK that is where they got the exhaust dump on my farmboy racing exhaust system.
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Post by athawk11 on Mar 21, 2014 13:41:08 GMT -5
I needed to transition from the red engine to the black drive train. Came up with this. What do you guys think?     I am waiting on a new throw out bearing, so it's not all bolted up yet, but I just had to see how it would look. Tim |
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Post by Haines Garage on Mar 21, 2014 16:08:02 GMT -5
You painted flames on the bell housing of a Will-Is?
There has got to be some law against that.
It most definitely is not enforced here however...
I give that a 100% bonified..Haines Garage Five Thumbs Up!
I say Awesome!
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Post by Deleted on Mar 21, 2014 17:04:49 GMT -5
The red and black is a great looking color scheme. I vote you make this jeep into a trailer queen. It is going to look too pretty to get dirty.
Ok...everyone can now throw their empty beer cans at me for the previous statement.
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Post by athawk11 on Mar 22, 2014 8:07:19 GMT -5
Come On Moose,
This one is going to be a 'Thrasher' for my wife!!!! I just figured it can start out as a fairly clean and cool little Willys before she tears it apart.
Thanks all for looking at it. We all know this will never be seen by anyone that isn't willing to climb under it. This was to put a smile on your faces, and a smile on the face of the guy who has to restore this Willys 40 years from now.
Have a great day, all!
Tim
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Post by Haines Garage on Mar 26, 2014 9:41:57 GMT -5
Come On Moose, This one is going to be a 'Thrasher' for my wife!!!! Tim That is one heck of a good looking "Thrasher" Just admit it Sir Hawkridge, you can't help yourself. I would wonder what it would be like if you decided to do a showpiece. |
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Post by athawk11 on Mar 27, 2014 9:05:53 GMT -5
HG, You're too kind. And you're right. I can't seem to control myself. It's just hard for me to be Bubba. The one improvement I am hoping to see on this one is the reduction in leaks. On the OD Willys, I tried to be 'Old School' regarding the use of original gaskets. I didn't utilize some of the modern approaches like sealing bolt threads etc... On this project, I'm sealing bolt threads on stuff that doesn't even penetrate a gear box. As God is my witness, I will do everything in my power to eliminate "The Drip"!  For example, the pivot pin for the clutch control shaft that is mounted on the side of the TC...it does not poke into the TC. I put Perm #2 on the threads anyway. Tim |
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Post by Haines Garage on Mar 27, 2014 9:35:37 GMT -5
Now that's funny. I have to say you might be suffering from a little #2OCD!
Also back to Sir Lessthreejaks is right about the Red and Black.
Are you still planning a yellow body?
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