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Post by Haines Garage on Aug 20, 2014 22:21:24 GMT -5
Touché , douche ... And no you did not... Just admit it !!
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Post by Haines Garage on Aug 20, 2014 22:23:59 GMT -5
Oh buy the way pad wan , make sure you clean the valves and lap them back in !
Just Sayin !
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Post by Deleted on Aug 21, 2014 7:18:05 GMT -5
Now that must have hurt Haines!
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Post by Deleted on Aug 21, 2014 16:00:25 GMT -5
Thursday update: all 8 valves removed, cleaned (and lapped just to tickle HG's fancy), installed and gapped. Assembly will happen tomorrow and hopefully I'll be driving it tomorrow PM. I'm going to try to get the head on tonight.
PS..HG called twice today and left nonsense messages. He must not have any jobs to do.
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Post by Haines Garage on Aug 21, 2014 16:23:19 GMT -5
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Post by Deleted on Aug 21, 2014 18:21:10 GMT -5
Ok..one last question for the night...
Is it feasible to hone the cylinders with the pistons in place? Logic tells me no! But I'm often illogical so I thought I'd ask. There is a slight rough area on two of the cylinders at the top. What you guys say?
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Post by Deleted on Aug 21, 2014 18:40:52 GMT -5
Yes you can, but----------------There may be taper or more wear towards the top. If it is extreme, say .007 then honing will make it worse and all the flexing of the rings going in and out could cause them to break and then you are in trouble. You could just scotchbrite the walls to clean the crap and forget it after that, or pull the engine and bore it or sleeve it and then overhaul the rest with all new valves guides, springs, and pistons and bearings and cam, and gears, and rods and crank and gaskets and plugs, and distributor. It's simple.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 21, 2014 19:22:59 GMT -5
WHAT I AM READING LOOKS LIKE SOMEONE IS HALF ASSING A MOTOR JOB TO MAKE A FAST BUCK..IT WILL COME BACK AND BITE YOU IN THE ASS MY FRIEND !!
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Post by Deleted on Aug 21, 2014 20:15:52 GMT -5
Oily...just THAT simple, huh? Haha!
Hillwilly, you've got it ALL wrong. Unlike you, I'm not doing this for the money. No cash will be exchanged. I'm just helping a friend out that hasn't been able to drive his jeep in a bit over a year. He thought he was dealing with a fuel problem. Instead, the engine is just suffering from a bit of lack of use. When I agreed to take the project on, I was thinking it would be a little tune up and clean the funk out of the carb. Then I'd change a seal in the transfer case and flush his brake system. I certainly didn't anticipate something this deep. But since his former job (the US ARMY) kind of took him away for awhile, I don't mind helping him out. I don't make money on jeeps...I make it on my other hobby: golf!
He mentioned honing the cylinders. I just didn't think it would be wise to do with the pistons in situ. I was more worried about not getting all of the grit cleaned up. That's why I asked.
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Post by Haines Garage on Aug 21, 2014 20:15:59 GMT -5
WHAT I AM READING LOOKS LIKE SOMEONE IS HALF ASSING A MOTOR JOB TO MAKE A FAST BUCK..IT WILL COME BACK AND BITE YOU IN THE ASS MY FRIEND !!
He's not doing a motor job, just was asked to get it running .
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Post by Haines Garage on Aug 21, 2014 20:26:05 GMT -5
And Also... Only the Captain and I are allowed to pick on the Moosester !!
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Post by Deleted on Aug 21, 2014 21:09:43 GMT -5
WHAT I AM READING LOOKS LIKE SOMEONE IS HALF ASSING A MOTOR JOB TO MAKE A FAST BUCK..IT WILL COME BACK AND BITE YOU IN THE ASS MY FRIEND !!
Ahhhhhhhh....I bet BennyHillBilly is confused thinking all this engine chitchat is about the MB that I'm going to sell. He is old. Cut him some slack, HG. The MB engine is still at the machinist. Yesterday, I dropped off the new pistons, new valves and new guides for him to work his magic upon. But I'm not going to cloud up this already diluted superlative thread with a discussion on THAT MB block. Oh, by the way, since I'm talking about that MB block that is getting rebuilt....you guys will recall that it's casting date was 6-30-44. It's machined dated was 7-5-44. When I was asking about engine paint last week, I found a guy in TX whose cast date was 6-31-44 and machined on 7-6-44. The interesting part of the story is that his serial number is lower than mine, although my block was born a day earlier than his! Nice inventory management Willease.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 21, 2014 21:24:58 GMT -5
WHAT I AM READING LOOKS LIKE SOMEONE IS HALF ASSING A MOTOR JOB TO MAKE A FAST BUCK..IT WILL COME BACK AND BITE YOU IN THE ASS MY FRIEND !!
Ahhhhhhhh....I bet BennyHillBilly is confused thinking all this engine chitchat is about the MB that I'm going to sell. He is old. Cut him some slack, HG. The MB engine is still at the machinist. Yesterday, I dropped off the new pistons, new valves and new guides for him to work his magic upon. But I'm not going to cloud up this already diluted superlative thread with a discussion on THAT MB block. Oh, by the way, since I'm talking about that MB block that is getting rebuilt....you guys will recall that it's casting date was 6-30-44. It's machined dated was 7-5-44. When I was asking about engine paint last week, I found a guy in TX whose cast date was 6-31-44 and machined on 7-6-44. The interesting part of the story is that his serial number is lower than mine, although my block was born a day earlier than his! Nice inventory management Willease. I was a little confused too for a minute. I was under the correct assumption that you was doing this as a favor. As for honing with the pistons in, I gonna say no. For above mentioned reasons, and the fact you will never get the grit out.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 22, 2014 2:11:55 GMT -5
I MUST APOLIGIZE THEN MOOSESTEER...MIS-READ , MIS INFORMED....TIRED IS THE BOTTOM LINE...I WILL LEAVE THE BALLKNIOCK BUSTING TO HG FROM HERE ON OUT..
BY THE WAY ..DONT MONKEY AROUND TRYING TO CLEAN UP THE CYCLINDER WALLS WITH THE PISTONS STILL IN ...ALL YOUR DOING IS ASKING FOR TROUBLE & ASSACHES.
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Post by Moosier on Aug 22, 2014 4:49:34 GMT -5
I was a little confused too for a minute. I was under the correct assumption that you was doing this as a favor. As for honing with the pistons in, I gonna say no. For above mentioned reasons, and the fact you will never get the grit out. Sweet. For once my reasoning falls into the majority's camp. 2.5 "nay Sayers" is what I wanted to hear. (Oily's vote counts as a half...just because!)
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Post by Deleted on Aug 22, 2014 4:58:35 GMT -5
I MUST APOLIGIZE THEN MOOSESTEER...MIS-READ , MIS INFORMED....TIRED IS THE BOTTOM LINE...I WILL LEAVE THE BALLKNIOCK BUSTING TO HG FROM HERE ON OUT..
BY THE WAY ..DONT MONKEY AROUND TRYING TO CLEAN UP THE CYCLINDER WALLS WITH THE PISTONS STILL IN ...ALL YOUR DOING IS ASKING FOR TROUBLE & ASSACHES.
Apology not needed! I figured it was something simple like going cross-eyed trying to figure out what is going on down here in the Kingdom of the (Haines) Garage. I've got two major projects in the works...and the moderator has done a piss poor job (haha! ) in keeping this thread on track. I swear...he must be more interested in guns and bikes. At least the first two pages contain a lot of good questions and advice! It all went downhill once HG got involved. Time to get today started...
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Post by Deleted on Aug 22, 2014 5:08:08 GMT -5
I FEEL FOR 'YA MOOSESTEER..MAYBE WHEN HE GETS UP HERE IN OCTOBER I CAN STRAIGHTEN HIS YOUNG ASS OUT !!
WHICH I DOUBT.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 22, 2014 19:52:53 GMT -5
Well...here we go again... All has been put back together. But still no go. . Here is where I stand, and hopefully my electrical guru will be along shortly. I have chased a spark to the plugs. The champion plugs gave a weak spark, so I replaced them with a new set of spares that I keep (autolite 295). Holding the plug wire 3/8" from a ground, I saw a nice blue spark in my dark garage. When I do this, I am SLOWLY rotating my handcrank. Every now and then, I get a slight kickback on the hand crank. I would say 1 out of 15, or so. I have gone through each wire double checking it with the rotor position as well as which cylinder is at TDC. Other things I have discovered... - the foot starter is intermittent, working well for a length and then not at all
- the connection for the wire to starter is hot after an extended period of cranking
- The wire from the battery to foot starter is warm after use
- The attaching mechanism for the throttle line to carb linkage is missing so the throttle cable is not hooked up
-would the occasional hand crank kickback be because the timing might be retarded? -it almost appears that the foot switch needs to be replaced (not surprised). Although it occasionally works, is it still drawing too much and taking away from the spark? Oh, and lastly, the starter might spin ever so slightly faster when the ignition is off versus on. I don't really want to swap out parts to find the solution. I'd rather do some trouble shooting to come up with the answer. Thoughts? Fire 'em at me!
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Post by Deleted on Aug 22, 2014 20:01:57 GMT -5
Oh...and so you know...each cylinder (except number 1) has A LOT of pressure coming out towards my thumb when I checked them.
Fuel is getting through the carb- I can hear it squirting out when I depress the pedal and can see it looking down the carb throat and tug on the accelerator linkage.
When trying to start, I was using (don't scorn me)...starting fluid.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 22, 2014 20:07:13 GMT -5
I well approve of starting fluid! Lee It smells good as well
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Post by Haines Garage on Aug 22, 2014 20:17:22 GMT -5
I well approve of starting fluid! Lee It smells good as well I agree x2. ! Did you check the wiring and the ground .
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Post by Deleted on Aug 22, 2014 21:01:01 GMT -5
Okie dokie, here's my thoughts..Follow KJRT brethren, feel free to disagree...
I'm assuming a all original GPW with a 6v system, and all wiring is like original gauge.
If the wiring is getting warm, the wiring terminations are probably a little dirty/ oxidized. Plus, giving the fact there was enough moisture present to lock the engine. 6v is really sensitive to extra resistance.
Like what was mentioned, pay particular attention to the battery ground, the engine ground strap, and the mounting surface of the starter to the engine.
Put a volt meter on the battery while cranking the engine, see what it drops to. I want to say anything less than 5 volts is not good, but I'm not sure.
It sounds like it wants to fire with the hand crank, but I wouldn't suggest it because we don't know where the timing really is, don't want to have your arm in sling. I would feel bad.
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Post by Haines Garage on Aug 22, 2014 21:07:04 GMT -5
Okie dokie, here's my thoughts..Follow KJRT brethren, feel free to disagree... I'm assuming a all original GPW with a 6v system, and all wiring is like original gauge. If the wiring is getting warm, the wiring terminations are probably a little dirty/ oxidized. Plus, giving the fact there was enough moisture present to lock the engine. 6v is really sensitive to extra resistance. Like what was mentioned, pay particular attention to the battery ground, the engine ground strap, and the mounting surface of the starter to the engine. Put a volt meter on the battery while cranking the engine, see what it drops to. I want to say anything less than 5 volts is not good, but I'm not sure. It sounds like it wants to fire with the hand crank, but I wouldn't suggest it because we don't know where the timing really is, don't want to have your arm in sling. I would feel bad. Finally some one with someone with some sense ! Sir Gary , you are right .
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Post by Deleted on Aug 22, 2014 21:29:27 GMT -5
Gary! I knew you'd come bouncing along! The jeep was converted to 12 volts. Has reproduction wiring throughout and modern ignition wires.
One thing of note...and I HATE saying this because HG mentioned it earlier here and in a text...check the wires. I'll give him the benefit of the doubt that he may also have been alluding to the grounds.
The engine does not have the grounds at the front supports, nor does it have the ground that connects to the firewall/cowl. I might try to rig something up in the morning. I keep telling myself, "he drove it like this for years, why would it need it now?"
And as for starting it with the hand crank...you are right: no way! Not yet. I'm still fearful when I do it with my GPW. When I felt it push back, I was just creeping it along checking the spark on the plugs. My luck, it will fire and plow forward, running me over and plowing into the family room with me hanging on as a hood ornament because I what I assume to be neutral in the transmission is really second gear!
And yes, I thought it was going to fire. My wife even became interested and watched for a moment.
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Post by rudycon on Aug 22, 2014 22:39:38 GMT -5
Hand cranking:
Some machines are wrist/arm breakers and some are not. The Go Devil? I don't know. I do know that The Caterpillar has NEVER kicked back on me. The impulse on the magneto probably has something to do with that. I HAVE cranked it round and round fast enough to overcome the impulse on the mag...luckily, it didn't hit. In that case I suppose it could try to run backwards.(starting the dozer is a real pain reaching over/around the blade)
Anyway, super retarded ignition probably won't kick backwards. Usually super retarded backfires flames out the carb(s).
The more advanced you have the ignition timed, the more likely she'll break your arm. (think Model T with timing on the column. You always retard the ignition when you crank 'er.)
I just went out to the garage. Hooked up the voltmeter and my voltage drops to 5.2 Volts when I crank the Studebaker around. (ignition off.) The engine seems to spin around as well as any other 6 volt 8N Fordson tractor I've run.
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