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Post by Deleted on Oct 26, 2014 5:35:10 GMT -5
rudycon A similar thing happened to me a long time ago, and your story just reminded me! I was just a whipper back then, fresh off the farm. My 65 Malibu ss didn't like pushing snow while out hunting, so I had to have a jeep! I did end up getting a decent little 2A, and drove around grinning like a cheshire cat until one day it just quite!! It would start and idle all day, but no speed. Lucky for me, I knew an old mechanic that my dad used to use back on the farm when he got stumped. The guy had moved to Calgary where I was, so I gave him a call. When I got to his shop, he disconnected the line from the carb., put his thumb over the line and had me turn it over. He said right away that I had a fuel supply problem because I had no pressure to the carb. The problem was soon discovered to be the flex line between the body and the engine! It had been on so long, that it had deteriorated inside and plugged the line. There was no leak or anything to suggest that that piece of line was the problem, but there it was!! Sooo mabey! That tale reminds me of one of Gus Wilson's and the Model Garage stories! I find this stuff so clever when I read them, but I can't ever remember them when I'm the one trouble shooting! Also, "The Stuff" is kind of sounding like a prophet in his last post. Seems to me that he spoke on a different thread and called an obscure diagnosis correctly. ...unfortunately, again, I can't remember which thread! I can't wait to read the final chapter in this story. |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 26, 2014 8:21:17 GMT -5
The normal Jeep grounds are located from the battery to the front of the battery box base, which is basically the frame. Then a heavy ground strap runs from the right front motor plate around the rubber motor mount to the lower bolts mount and frame at the right front motor mount. You basically are grounding the motor to the frame. WW2 Jeeps had a ground strap from the body to a rear head stud. So, Battery to the frame, motor to the frame, and body to the motor. The body bolts that hold it to the frame should give you plenty of ground there. The electric pump case should be grounded to the frame with a ground wire also. Sometimes they have a hot wire and ground wire that are part of the pump. Check where you have a power feed to the pump, like a switch. If it's dirty and has poor inner contacts, or it draws allot of current, it can heat up and then drop out power due to a bad switch. Too much draw alone can heat up a ignition switch and cause power drops too. I'll sometimes pull power feed elsewhere and install a in line fuse to eliminate too much draw on a switch like your ignition/key switch. I once had a power feed problem on a old dirty key switch. It got so hot it cracked the switch guts and melted the spade terminal covers. Hey, another story from Oilleaker pops up!  . Oilly |
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Post by rudycon on Oct 26, 2014 10:16:30 GMT -5
Right on Bruce. I think I might be on the lean side too with my home-drilled main jet. Down in Buena Vista, I felt the lean surge running fast (55 mph) on the highway. If 1000 feet = a noteable lean surge, than I must be on the lean side up here. But by golly I am close as the idle bleed screw is right about where the book says it should be as a starting point for carb adjustment.
As far as body/chassis grounds go. I DO know where they should be. Those funny bolted plates from body to chassis. None of mine are connected because there is an extra layer of conveyer belt between my body/chassis mounts. (Call it a 3/8" body lift?)
Anyway, none of the bolt holes line up so all of those body/chassis plates are just swinging. I wonder if I redrill, make longer, or replace the plates with ground strap if I can get a better body chassis ground.
The problem seems to have gotten worse. Why? Maybe the more I clean and paint, and the more wasted rubber parts I replace, the better my insulation between body/chassis. The other possible problem is certainly the age of the wiring. LOTS of tired looking, oxidized copper on this bucket. It could also be a problem with the main power wires. I don't think the ammeter is hooked up right. That's a sign there may be other funny wiring under the dash.
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Post by rudycon on Oct 26, 2014 10:24:59 GMT -5
Thanks guys. I've read all the suggestions there. I DID re-use an old switch and hole drilled too close to the steering wheel re-inforcement in the dash so the switch mounts kinda cock-eyed. Low class. I have some nice made in USA switches from my Dad's old race car. Anyway...starting with the grounds today. I think can work on it after about 2:00pm
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Post by rudycon on Oct 26, 2014 10:57:05 GMT -5
Ran out there with the ol' ohm meter. At least the left front fender is still visibly bonded to the frame. And the fender to the body.
Summary: All resistance readings are the same from battery to everywhere. frame, engine, body...all bonded OK.
Back to the visibly worn out wiring and old switches/terminals. I think I can get my analog volt meter on the pump ckt to see if the voltage drops while the engine is running fast vs. slow.
I also dumped in another gallon of old gasoline from the 16 HP genset. (This gas is still good enough to start/run the genset but it is old and needs to be burned.)
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Post by rudycon on Oct 27, 2014 9:16:04 GMT -5
No news. I spent Sunday in the basement bathroom. No. Not sick!
I corrected a toilet install. Yes, bubba fixes toilets too.
4" iron pipe in concrete, flange completely missing. Just a jagged end of iron pipe left. Any seal was provided by the wax ring (which provided a partial seal. Not good!)
I used an inside fitting 4" closet repair flange for iron pipe.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 27, 2014 18:17:50 GMT -5
Now that's just shitty! I feel for, but my Septic event this last summer was worse. It's the complete recieving end of your flange if you get my meaning. We'll call him Sewer Bubba for doing a poor install, Rudycon to the rescue! Oil
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Post by Haines Garage on Oct 27, 2014 19:22:58 GMT -5
This thread is one of the best on this site! More information is shared, and people who care. I love it!
Sir Rudy, you are AWESOME... Keep On Keeping On!
I enjoy reading your post very much. You have a cool jeep, and a very recognizable style.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 27, 2014 21:26:58 GMT -5
I'mm kinda thinking Sir Rudy is the Ed Norton of the rockies  . I like do-it-yourselfers..........You know damn well they were raised right!  |
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Post by Wiring update on Nov 9, 2014 22:24:16 GMT -5
I decided to just get a couple of hanks of #10 wire and see what happens.
Naturally, the project grew.
#14 wire from generator armature to voltage regulator. Yes, technically, it can handle 32 amps, but with what kind of voltage drop? The bezel trim washer (think upholstery) was a nice tough too. TIM!!!!! I also did it wrong, but instead of too thin, I went too thick. I used #4 wire from then generator to the voltage regulator. I also replaced the field winding wire from the regular with #10.
OK, moving on. I used #10 from the regulator, back up to the ammeter. double lugged it with a red #10 to go to the headlight switch. I moved the horn to the load side of the ammeter too. Then I ran a fresh #10 red back from the - side of the ammeter to the starter solenoid. I should be good for 55 amps to the battery now from the regulator. The generator is rated at 35 amps so I should only see about 5% voltage drop. Plus, the ammeter works now too.
While I was back-pulling dead wires, I removed the non-functional turn signal switch. Doubled up the taillights and got those hooked back into the ckt. From genny to bat-rey, at a reasonable 10 amps, that is <4% voltage drop.(out of 6 volts at the full 35 amps, that is over 1 volt drop! And this is with wires bigger than Willys chose to use.
I still have plenty of wasted looking wires, but I think I have good wire on the fuel pump ckt. now.
ROAD TEST!
These 8902 pumps just don't build much pressure. I think it gets up to 3 psi on the gage at idle. Running floored up the big hill at high RPM, with the headlights on, I saw about 1 PSI. I know I don't need much, but I sure wish I saw 3 PSI all the time.
I could try to move the pump ground from the body to the frame down by the pump and reduce the amount of small diameter wire going from the pump... This pump is rated 2.5 -4 PSI based on voltage. The more voltage I can get to it, the higher the pressure should run.
Anyway, It was a relatively short trip, but I didn't run out of fuel this time.
I have a feeling that I MIGHT be able to run a Studebaker 6 cyl Lark fuel pump. That one doesn't have that thing sticking up within 1/2" of the exhaust manifold. With a good heat shield and re-routed fuel lines MAYBE I can run a mechanical pump reliably.
Cooling: I gotta plan.
Yeah, yeah, the block is probably full of mud, the radiator is probably at least partially clogged. TIM!!!!! installed this water pump so it is probably full of silicone... And I should probably just pony up for a brass 4 row recore...
I have today didn't work at highway speeds back in Buena Vista. I am going to try to run a late Studebaker (think Lark) water pump. This is about 1" longer than my early (think Champion) water pump. This will let me mount up the heavy, high pitch, 6 blade fan if I remove the custom fan should. Wally showed me his Buick V6 running shroudless... If that doesn't work, I'll make a new shroud for the big fan.
So, I bought a water pump today. I'll try to put it on this winter.
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Post by rudycon on Nov 9, 2014 23:07:57 GMT -5
Summary: Go drive your Flattie! I replaced a bunch of wires and the fuel pump kept running today. I decided to just get a couple of hanks of #10 wire and see what happens. Naturally, the project grew. I found #14 wire from generator armature to voltage regulator. Yes, technically, it can handle 32 amps, but with what kind of voltage drop? The bezel trim washer (think upholstery) was a nice touch too. TIM!!!!! I also did it wrong, but instead of too thin, I went too thick. I used #4 wire from then generator to the voltage regulator. I also replaced the field winding wire from the regulator with #10. OK, moving on. I used #10 from the regulator, back up to the ammeter. Double lugged it with a red #10 to go to the headlight switch. I moved the horn to the load side of the ammeter too. More intuitive for me. Then I ran a fresh #10 red back from the - side of the ammeter to the starter solenoid. I should be good for 55 amps to the battery now from the regulator. The generator is rated at 35 amps so I should see <4% voltage drop at 10 amps and lose about 1 volt at 35 amps. Losing a volt sounds like a lot, but Willys ran #12 where I ran #10. I should see less voltage drop than "stock." While I was back-pulling dead wires, I removed the non-functional turn signal switch. Doubled up the separately wired brake lights and got those hooked back into the ckt. I still have plenty of wasted looking wires, but I think I have good wire on the fuel pump ckt. now. ROAD TEST! Driving the willys is fun despite my major drivability problems. I recommend everyone gets out there one more time this fall! These 8902 pumps just don't build much pressure. I think it gets up to 3 psi on the gage at idle. Running floored up the big hill at high RPM, with the headlights on, I saw about 1 PSI. I know I don't need much, but I sure wish I saw 3 PSI all the time. I could try to move the pump ground from the body to the frame down by the pump and reduce the amount of small diameter wire going from the pump. That might give me a little less voltage drop. This pump is rated 2.5 -4 PSI based on voltage. The more voltage I can get to it, the higher the pressure should run. I wonder if this is just the 12volt pump remarketed and sold as a low pressure 6 volt pump?! Anyway, It was a relatively short trip, but I didn't run out of fuel this time and I could drive "normally" (Floored). I have a feeling that I MIGHT be able to run a Studebaker 6 cyl Lark fuel pump. That pump doesn't have that thing sticking up within 1/2" of the exhaust manifold. With a good heat shield and re-routed fuel lines MAYBE I can run a mechanical pump reliably and skip this electrical crap. That said, the Studebaker guys not at altitude all battle the same vapor lock and hot restart, and boiling fuel problems that I have...E-pump might be the way to go. I like being able to shut off the fuel and run the carb dry. Makes for a much faster hot restart. Cooling: I gotta plan. Yeah, yeah, the block is probably full of mud, the radiator is probably at least partially clogged. TIM!!!!! installed this water pump so it is probably full of silicone...And I should probably just pony up for a brass 4 row recore... What I have today didn't work at highway speeds back in Buena Vista. I am going to try to run a late Studebaker (think Lark) water pump. This is about 1" longer than my early (think Champion) water pump. This will get the fan closer to the radiator. It is WAY to far away at this point. This will also let me mount up the heavy, high pitch, 6 blade fan if I remove my custom fan should. Wally showed me his Buick V6 running shroudless...If that doesn't work, I'll make a new shroud for the big fan. So, I bought a water pump today. I'll try to put it on this winter. image: PO generator wire vs current owner wire. Attachments:
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Post by rudycon on Dec 30, 2014 10:28:29 GMT -5
Father-in-law: "Will the little jeep be available for photo's this Christmas?" Rudycon: "It's in pieces right now. I'll put it back together." Passed the phone to my wife and ran out to the shed, flung the doors open and worked while it snowed. Changed back to the old water pump, pully, fan, radiator ...filled it back up with antifreeze and started 'er up. Total elapsed time? 40 minutes! Took the pictures, went for a quick spin. It was good to drive the little scamp around. That's my wife's pellet gun with "Scut Farkass" (Christmas Story) driving. Attachments:
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Post by rudycon on Apr 4, 2015 20:08:17 GMT -5
Fixed my driver's seat today.
It wasn't on my to do list, but I bent the legs back straight enough that I could pick up the hole back on the inner fender.
Hmmm. Mighty wobbly. I betcha this bolt in the floor of the bed is supposed to have a 4th leg in it. I whipped one up out of angle iron.
Tacked it, then unbolted the seat to weld it. One tube is cracked maybe 50% around. The tubes are rusted away from the inside. I welded a quick patch over the crack. Totally bubba, but I don't think this kinked, cracked, panless, rusted out seat is worth repair.
Anyway. Solid seating for the operator now.
Test drove it 10 miles to drop off waste oil from Lin's Audi repairs.
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Post by zooke581 on Apr 4, 2015 21:20:02 GMT -5
Bet it sits a lot better now.
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Post by rudycon on May 2, 2015 18:12:49 GMT -5
I got to spend the morning with the willys. Got the fan shroud moved to the 4 row radiator. Carved up a bit of a carb heat shield. Made it too small and rustoleum is not gasoline proof.  Also tried my hand at filling holes in the body with my welder. I filled up about 5 bubba holes on the side closest to the welder. That's a lot of grinding! Also, took a video of my Geiger counter up against my military speedo. Those are "counts per minute." how "bad" is 400 CPM? Basically, don't wear it around your neck like Flavor Flav's clocks, and don't lick it. |
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Post by zooke581 on May 2, 2015 21:51:08 GMT -5
I forgot which one but Rustoleum has a gas proof paint but it takes over 24 hours to dry. I used in on my Vintage Race Bikes. Awesome stuff. Used to have to wear a Rad detector in the Army.
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Post by Ryan_M on May 3, 2015 4:15:05 GMT -5
Interesting test with the Geiger counter....do you think the CPM reading would increase if you remove the plastic lens of the speedo? I've only opened up a couple speedos but cringe every time I do wondering just how much exposure I'm getting.
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Post by rudycon on May 3, 2015 8:41:36 GMT -5
Yep. Most of the radium in the painted needle and the hash marks is radium-226. Radium 226 Emits gamma (most of what I was measuring) and alpha radiation. A sheet of paper or your skin or glass or plastic will block alpha. So take off the glass and the "measurement" would go up. The problem is that the paint breaks down over time and results in radioactive dust. You probably want to avoid inhaling or ingesting this dust as it places your innards in direct contact with radioactive material. I'm not a doctor or a scientist by the way. My goal isn't to scare anyone. Sharing knowledge is how we advance. You can draw your own conclusions and take precautions as you perceive the risk. So I ran outside to give you some more data. This time, I used uSv (micro sieverts) which is a more euro-science measurement than the old USA counts per minute and a measurement you are more likely to find on comparison/exposure charts. Right at the glass, you are looking at 1.5 uSv/hour Move the meter back to my knee, (The closest part of my body to the speedo) and the reading drops to .4 uSv/hour Some comparisons: Raleigh, NC (close enough to Haines' Garage) = .11 uSv/hour. my basement = .44 uSv/hour. (radon+background radiation.) Flying around at 25,000 feet on a domestic flight is about 1.5 uSv/hour. Flying around at 35,000 feet is about 3 uSv/hour. 5.7 uSv/hour is the highest possible "safe" level. ref: radiationsurvival.blogspot.com/ref: www.avweb.com/news/aeromed/181873-1.html |
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Post by Deleted on May 3, 2015 13:02:44 GMT -5
Be very nice to that speedo. I'm not worried about radiactivity. You should start thinking about radon gas, and no ozone layer. Then have your water tested and start thinking about the effects of chlorine on your body. The all the MSD in your food. Sugar will kill you. But---------HBR's now we're talking buddy! Oil |
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Post by Deleted on May 3, 2015 14:01:44 GMT -5
WOW,, I was unaware we had closet Physicists here in the garage, let alone a Geiger counter, I thought I was cool with a rear hub puller, very humbling. Oilleaker has me worried, I may have to re-tinfoil my hat . Seriously, if you check the condition of the polar ice caps, all this is irrelevant!, as the starving polar bears and the methane from the thawing and fermenting penguin terds will get us long before the radiation. Pirate smiley
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Post by Deleted on May 3, 2015 17:48:35 GMT -5
Lee- once you get out there to Sir leaker paradise in the Dakota's, you'll find the air so pure you will never go back to Mn. But John says, Don't drink the creek water!! LOL |
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Post by Deleted on May 3, 2015 18:06:15 GMT -5
Lee- once you get out there to Sir leaker paradise in the Dakota's, you'll find the air so pure you will never go back to Mn. But John says, Don't drink the creek water!! LOL Sir Binthere you may be correct, sell out and move to the Black Hills, Pure air, now I can breath it. See Doc Oilleaker gave me a prescription for some over the counter snake oil for my allergy problem, the shat really works!. I would be a little nervous, as Yellowstone is going to blow soon and the Hills may be in the fallout zone. Water there cannot be as bad as South Carolina. Pirate smiley |
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Post by Deleted on May 3, 2015 18:17:37 GMT -5
I don't know, but Sir Oil had some nasty chemical names for some of the stuff in the water. Something to do with gold mining!!
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Post by Deleted on May 3, 2015 19:00:10 GMT -5
I don't know, but Sir Oil had some nasty chemical names for some of the stuff in the water. Something to do with gold mining!! That and the alkalie, will clean you out faster than ex lax. |
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Post by Deleted on May 4, 2015 7:20:12 GMT -5
Have I introduced you two to Well Drinks yet?  |
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. Oilly
. I like do-it-yourselfers..........You know damn well they were raised right! 
Also tried my hand at filling holes in the body with my welder. I filled up about 5 bubba holes on the side closest to the welder. That's a lot of grinding!
