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Post by Ryan_M on Dec 25, 2014 15:13:05 GMT -5
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Post by Deleted on Dec 25, 2014 15:39:59 GMT -5
You are butt welding. It's a slow process. Whenever you can, I punch holes with a air punch, and plug weld. You can scew it together or if accessable clamp with C clamps before you start welding. It doesn't pull and warp as bad. What I do first is get it fit tight, and then tack weld it in place until it's held where you want it. Then start welding the length, a little here and there at a time. Otherwise the heat tries to raise and run off with your piece or ruin your nice tight fit. I also try and plan room for grinding the welds. Practice makes perfect. Oil
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Post by Ryan_M on Dec 25, 2014 17:19:52 GMT -5
You are butt welding. It's a slow process. Whenever you can, I punch holes with a air punch, and plug weld. Would it have been better to plug weld that top joint instead of butt weld? A butt weld will always leave you with a visible seam, won't it? I did plug weld the bottom edge where it attaches to the floor riser after failing in a couple attempts to run a bead along it. I just drilled a few holes in the patch and welded it right up. Seemed to work really well. |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 25, 2014 20:10:35 GMT -5
Yes, you would see a seam, and a seam is also a moisture trap. I butt welded mine exactly in the same location. Wasn't easy either. You are doing fine. When you need extra strength, or you don't see the seam, it's easier to plug weld a overlap. There is also a air tool that makes a flange or shelf to do the overlap type weld. I think you are getting it together and learning fast. Keep it up. When done, I seam seal areas that are sensitive to water before priming and painting. In hat channels and inner cavities, I paint or prime those areas with high zinc weld through primer. You have to turn up the heat of your welder, and clean the tip or nozzle more, but it works well to treat it against rust. The better you clamp/tie down and hold your pieces from movement, the better the fit and end result. It's a art to weld in a piece which when done isn't noticeable. The real masters of sheet metal work usually tig weld, and then english wheel the weld line. I blasted some inner F1 Ford pickup panels that were "patched". I asked this guy how he did it. No weld edges, no splatter, no grinding marks. It was so perfect that the only way I could see the patches was the metal had different colors where he repaired it. That was amazing. Oil
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Post by Haines Garage on Dec 25, 2014 20:22:43 GMT -5
Looking good Sir Ryan. Keep it up! Next thing you know guys will be asking "hey how did you do that?"
Looks like your getting more comfortable with the gun!
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Post by Deleted on Dec 29, 2014 17:01:48 GMT -5
Ryan if your mig welding I would push the weld. It's colder do less likely to blow through. We just finished out senior design project which required welding in all positions on all thicknesses. Biggest was 5/8 to 5/8 smallest was 22ga to 22 or 22 to 3/16. I even welded a can of corn to a 1/2" plate table. The point being play with it. When I verticls weld I like to start at the top and push down. When I overhead I like to start and stop. I did have one pull where I dumped a big molten puddle on my hand so wear gloves. If you burn through still a bigger piece of copper will help pull heat out as you weld.
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Post by athawk11 on Jan 9, 2015 12:47:16 GMT -5
I was reading a little bit this morning. One thing I learned... Welding on very cold metal can cause problems. It's often recommended to warm up the metals prior to welding. The may or may not be relevant in Ryan's case, but thought I'd mention it. I'm staying consistent with my "Blow this page up" promise!!!  |
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Post by Ryan_M on Jan 9, 2015 13:12:18 GMT -5
That is good info but shouldn't be relevant in my case. Everything I've worked on so far has been kept in my heated garage.
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Post by athawk11 on Jan 9, 2015 13:18:15 GMT -5
You have a heated garage? That's just not fair.  |
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Post by Ryan_M on Jan 9, 2015 13:25:00 GMT -5
Yes, and it's radiant in-floor heat too. Trust me, I'd much rather just be living in a climate that requires no heating at all but if it must be done having a nice warm floor is tough to beat.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 10, 2015 6:29:47 GMT -5
Once you get the cement warm, or cold, it stays that way. Warm feet and knees helps big time. When doing alot of welding, and you get the panel hot enough you could burn your hand, back off and let it cool. It warps or moves more than you would think. Oil
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