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Post by zooke581 on May 28, 2014 21:56:25 GMT -5
I'm so broke I have to fart to keep a cent in my pocket.  |
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Post by Haines Garage on May 29, 2014 20:37:53 GMT -5
I'm so broke I have to fart to keep a cent in my pocket. I like that one too ! |
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Post by Deleted on Jun 1, 2014 14:41:55 GMT -5
So, I went out and did some more sleuthing on the truck. I redid my compression test on all six. Fully charged battery, spark plugs removed.
1- 87
2-80
3-90
4-87
5-80 (unlike the others, this spark plug was wet when removed)
6-87lbs
I squirted two tablespoons of 40 weight oil into number 5 and rechecked. It went up to 100 lbs.
So I'm thinking piston rings aren't the best. If memory serves me correctly, the TM says it should be something like 108-115lbs.
Also, I'm wondering if the carb needs to be looked over (I think Gary mentioned this) since it showed some signs of running rich.
Thirdly, I still want to check the valves.
What makes me scratch my head is when I did my vacuum test, the engine read good. The guts on the dodge forum say it should be at least 17 on the vacuum gauge. I was holding steady there and bumped it up with the idle mixture screw adjustment.
I'm sure my curiosity will get the best of me and I'll be pulling the head.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 1, 2014 18:15:26 GMT -5
Moose, it wouldn't hurt a bit to adjust the valves. Remove the side covers and just follow the magic 13 formula. It will start better if you do. Then I would clean the float bowl chamber out and remove the idle mixture screw and carb clean that pilot circuit passage and blow out clean. On my M37 ball in ball carb, the accelerator pump system had crud in it. Mine has a vacuum controlled accelerator pump. Vacuum holds it up until you open the butterfly which dumps the vacuum and that allows the spring against the pump to squirt in fuel. The crud in the check balls stopped it from working. I ended up hand pumping the accelerator pump to expel whatever was lodged in there. Magic 13 -------you want to know don't you?--------  . It's so stupid simple it's genious. Had a old mechanic like Lee teach me this-------  Here is how it goes: with the spark plugs out, you rotate the engine clockwise looking at he front of the engine. ( The direction it runs). Watch the valves in the side chest. When any of the valves begins to rise, watch it until it fully goes up or opens. When it tops out or stops, write down which one it is. There are 12 valves in a flat head six. 13 minus the one that is fully open equals the one to adjust. You count them front to back , one through 12. So, if the 4th one opened all the way: 13 - 4 = 9. Adjust the clearance on # 9. Turn again , say #2 fully opens, 13 - 2 = 11. Adjust 11. Keep notes on the ones that are adjusted. Do you get it now? On a willeeeees Jeep the formula drops to magic 9. Easy sleezy huh? This only works on in line engines, not a V6 or V8. Now, if you had a straight 8, We'd call it magic 17. Oh, if you blow out any passages with air, be careful you don't blow out small balls and such. With the top off the carb this could happen. Then you would cuss me until the end of time.  John, Sir Oil Leaker |
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Post by Deleted on Jun 1, 2014 18:19:57 GMT -5
I'm so broke I have to fart to keep a cent in my pocket. And here I thought you just couldn't pay attention. Nasty, simply nasty! John |
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Post by Deleted on Jun 1, 2014 20:48:29 GMT -5
Well Mooooose55, if you had Hainses money you would drop a fresh crate Hemi in that bad boy  Lee  |
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Post by Haines Garage on Jun 1, 2014 20:53:49 GMT -5
Well Mooooose55, if you had Hainses money you would drop a fresh crate Hemi in that bad boy Lee [/quote Why is it that everyone thinks. I have money ? I am broker than broke... If Cotten was. .25 cents a yard , I couldn't buy enough to make a cotex for a fly!!! Now Bo ,,, he is the money guy...only rich dudes golf !! |
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Post by Haines Garage on Jun 1, 2014 20:57:35 GMT -5
I'm so broke I have to fart to keep a cent in my pocket. And here I thought you just couldn't pay attention. Nasty, simply nasty! John Yeah but funny!!! |
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Post by zooke581 on Jun 3, 2014 22:04:11 GMT -5
I'm so broke I have to fart to keep a cent in my pocket. And here I thought you just couldn't pay attention. Nasty, simply nasty! John To broke for that too! |
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Post by Deleted on Jun 8, 2014 14:11:05 GMT -5
Oh, fuuuuudddge. Thursday, I removed the passenger fender in prepping for my valve inspection. I read the manual today...valves must be set with the engine running and hot. WTF?!
There's a hot manifold sitting right there! Whys it got to be that way??
Yes, I'm wearing my panties.
Bo
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Post by Deleted on Jun 8, 2014 16:53:55 GMT -5
I guess that means the neighbor kids will get a ride instead of pushing, lucky them, those WC'S are cool Lee  |
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Post by Deleted on Jun 8, 2014 18:07:45 GMT -5
Where did you see The reference to adjust valves while running?  ? :-/John |
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Post by Deleted on Jun 8, 2014 18:30:39 GMT -5
According to my Dodge M37 manual for the 230 flathead six, you adjust the clearances hot--------but not with the engine running, to: .010 intake, .014 exhaust. They have solid lifters like your GPW has. Use the magic 13! My manual is TM 9-1840A
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Post by Haines Garage on Jun 8, 2014 21:03:01 GMT -5
I guess that means the neighbor kids will get a ride instead of pushing, lucky them, those WC'S are cool Lee HAHAHAHAHHA That is a funny! You got to give the credit to the panties boy! He is AWESOME!! Should I give it......Yeah Sir Turocys First Ever Haines Garage Its a long story Bo, back in the CJ2A Pages Days! It is the most high honor you can get! |
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Post by Deleted on Jun 10, 2014 16:54:21 GMT -5
John...I was reading TM 9-808
It reads "Run the engine at idling speed until it reaches normal temperature. Hold the tappet with wrench and adjust the screw until a .010 inch feeler gauge will not go between the adjusting screw and valve stem, but a .012 inch feeler gage will not go between the adjusting screw and valve stem on both intake and exhaust valves."
WTF!? I'm an idiot. So done dummie this down for me! Lol
So...I run the truck to temp and then shut it down to check and adjust?
And also, how it reads, neither gage should fit. Or should it just fit to .010 when warm? John, what's it say for the M37. It's the same engine, right?
Dazed, confused, hot and teaching lots of golf (which means I'm forgetting how to wrench),
Bo
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Post by Deleted on Jun 10, 2014 17:08:33 GMT -5
Damn...here is my answer in TM 9-1808A
"With the engine running at idling speed, hold tappet from turning and adjust the self locking screw until a .010 inch feeler gage will go between the adjusting screw and stem, but a .012 inch feeler gage will NOT go between the screw and the stem."
Ouch. Hey, HG, we should make a video of this soon to be debacle.
By the way, it says cylinder compression should be between 90 and 110 pounds at sea level. I'm between 80-87. Off...but close!
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Post by Haines Garage on Jun 10, 2014 19:11:13 GMT -5
Do I need to come over there? A video ? I am down!!!
Of course you shut the engine off.
How in hell can you work on a running motor?
I suppose Sir Moosester is smoking the crack pipe!
Hahahahahahahahah!!!
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Post by Deleted on Jun 10, 2014 19:42:19 GMT -5
Correct, shut it down! If you stick a wrench in there and the lifter is going up and down rapidly, you would have to do the adjustment in just under a nano second! Here is your next problem: How do you keep the oil in the side chest when the engine is running? Duh! I told you how to do the valve adjustment with the magic 13 method. Did you understand it? You will need to remove all the spark plugs so you can rotate the engine by hand. Chock the wheels and put it in neutral. The lifters have a screw in tappet that has resistance. Do you know how to use a feeler gauge and two wrenches to make changes to the adjustment? Yes, the Dodge M37 has the same 230 flat head six as the WC. The engine simply needs to be brought up to operating temp. and then shut down to do the checks. If you bring it up to the phone, I'll look at it for you!  -----------or just haul it up to the Black Hills and we'll do it in my shop! 1200.00 in fuel ought to get it here. Don't worry Moose, Lee and I will lead you through this! John |
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Post by Deleted on Jun 10, 2014 20:18:30 GMT -5
Whoa, wait a second cowboys. Don't go fussing at me like I'm a complete idiot! I do just fine as a partial F-up! Lol
I quoted you what the manual says. It says to leave it running! Yes, oilleaker, I might be slow at math, but I'm totally down with the magic 13!
Odd, tho, I was perusing the Dodge Military forum, and those guys were all saying to leave the engine running. That is suicide in my book. Your hand gets oily, the wrench slips, the fan blade catches it...and HG gets the entire mess on video. Shameful.
I doubt I'll get to it this weekend. I'm going to ponder it for awhile, instead!
And then I'll drive it to the Black Hills and get it sorted out.
Mooseman
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Post by Deleted on Jun 10, 2014 22:28:34 GMT -5
The only engines I know that you leave running to adjust the valve clearance are my chevy V8's with hydrallic lifters. You take a valve cover that is used or old and cut the top out so you can access the adjusters, but have a dam for the oil. They also have clips that go over the oil holes to stop the vertical spray. It's still a mess. I also learned you don't get pissed at it and rev it up. It throws all those little clips off and 2 hours later you find the last one sitting on top of the wiper blade on the windshield! My military manual does not say leave the engine running. It simply gives you clearances hot. Now if you drive the WC up here, pack a lunch, and a load of stakes in the back. You can get out and drive the stakes in the ground to judge if you are still moving. You'll need to do it before winter too! Your top is quite poor on it. We could go on for hours-----------LOL. John
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Post by Deleted on Jun 11, 2014 21:18:20 GMT -5
Ok, there are no retards here, and Moose55's wife says he wears whitey tighties. So, run it up to temp, then turn it off and set the valves as Oilleaker said. Setting a solid lifter engine running is the dumbest thing I can think of. The reason the fine engineers at Dodge want them set hot is the stems of the valve get longer at operating temp (heat swells) and if you set them cold the gap will get tighter as the engine heats up and you run the risk of burning or warping a valve  . So Moose55, pull your pant up and turn your hat around and get to work! Lee |
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Post by Haines Garage on Jun 12, 2014 18:03:26 GMT -5
I am in no way pirating Sir Moose of the looms thread...
I want to comment about the "There are no retards here " comment.
Retard is not a politically correct term to use!!!
It is learning impaired....
People might get upset.... So I have step in and say ...
" I LOVE IT!!!!!""""
And you are right... No de tards here .....(well maybe one)
That I can't say the same for the other site!
Hahahahahaj!
Haines Garage and his group of Will-is!!! Scholars!!
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Post by Deleted on Jun 12, 2014 19:51:57 GMT -5
The WC will most likely be on the backburner till the US open is over, right Lee |
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Post by Deleted on Jun 12, 2014 19:53:44 GMT -5
The WC will most likely be on the backburner till the US open is over, right Lee |
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Post by Deleted on Jun 12, 2014 19:59:55 GMT -5
Binthere is here! At my house! He and i both aggree-----------it's Willeeeeese! We toasted it over supersonic sticks! Now, where are you guys? Oil
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. It's so stupid simple it's genious. Had a old mechanic like Lee teach me this------- 
Here is how it goes: with the spark plugs out, you rotate the engine clockwise looking at he front of the engine. ( The direction it runs). Watch the valves in the side chest. When any of the valves begins to rise, watch it until it fully goes up or opens. When it tops out or stops, write down which one it is. There are 12 valves in a flat head six. 13 minus the one that is fully open equals the one to adjust. You count them front to back , one through 12. So, if the 4th one opened all the way: 13 - 4 = 9. Adjust the clearance on # 9. Turn again , say #2 fully opens, 13 - 2 = 11. Adjust 11. Keep notes on the ones that are adjusted. Do you get it now? On a willeeeees Jeep the formula drops to magic 9. Easy sleezy huh? This only works on in line engines, not a V6 or V8. Now, if you had a straight 8, We'd call it magic 17. Oh, if you blow out any passages with air, be careful you don't blow out small balls and such. With the top off the carb this could happen. Then you would cuss me until the end of time. 
John, Sir Oil Leaker
-----------or just haul it up to the Black Hills and we'll do it in my shop! 1200.00 in fuel ought to get it here. Don't worry Moose, Lee and I will lead you through this! John
. So Moose55, pull your pant up and turn your hat around and get to work!