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Post by Deleted on Jan 16, 2016 8:30:30 GMT -5
I've been working on an adapter, to mount a Borg-Warner T-18 4 speed Ford transmission to my Kubota V3300. The stock flywheel housing was not an option, as it made the package much to long and by building my own, was able to lighten it up. Here are a few shots!. The adapter is actually three pieces of aluminum. 1/4", 1/2", 3/4". The 1/4" piece is an outline of the rear of the block and its purpose is to provide the correct offset for the starter, then the 1/2" piece, that is sandwiched between the other two and is bolted to the block. Then the 3/4" piece that is drilled to accept a 1969 Ford small block bell housing that the T-18 mounts to....... All said and done, yes I would do it different, it would be two 3/4" pieces, and I may change it before the project is completed, but one has to start someplace, LOL. Here is the 3/4" plate with the bell housing holes transferred onto it, before I cut the center out in the bandsaw! Here is the Novac adapter for the trans/ transfer case connection, the complete main shaft gets replaced..... I could have saved some money here and made this as well, but sourcing a main shaft from the boneyard from a Jeep truck or scout takes time, one phone call saves some trouble, LOL. Here is a set of transfer punches, used to transfer holes in fabrication work, very handy and inexpensive at Harbor Freight. Sawing out the center. Here I am making sure the trans is squair with the engine using a protractor. Here I am indicating in the bell housing using a dial indicator off the flywheel and rotating the engine, I look for zero runout in 360 deg of rotation. In the end I was .003 out, well within my okay doky fine range. Then the bell housing was doweled to the 3/4 plate. Here is the finished product, the plate on the bottom of the trans is bolted to it so it would sit in the floor jack for fitting purposes. Thanks for looking, now it's tranny rebuild time!.
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Post by athawk11 on Jan 16, 2016 9:36:08 GMT -5
Awesome work Lee. Very impressive. Mating two different components like this is way beyond my skill set.
Tim
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Post by Deleted on Jan 16, 2016 12:01:23 GMT -5
Way beyond cool, Cap'n!
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Post by Deleted on Jan 16, 2016 15:14:19 GMT -5
Just jealous is all.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 17, 2016 1:37:47 GMT -5
Impressive! I like your secret project.
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Post by Ryan_M on Jan 17, 2016 6:45:53 GMT -5
Wow that's some serious work. I wouldn't even know where to begin to tackle a project like that. I knew it could be done but have never seen detailed pics like yours of an adapter being made.
Dumb question here but the thickness of the adapter plate must be fairly critical to ensure the mainshaft fits at the proper depth? If that plate is too thick or too thin the mainshaft would be too long or too short, right?
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Post by Deleted on Jan 17, 2016 8:30:29 GMT -5
Won't be long and we'll have a coal roller amongst us. Cough, cough. I need to get me one of those. Oilly
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Post by Deleted on Jan 17, 2016 9:52:24 GMT -5
Wow that's some serious work. I wouldn't even know where to begin to tackle a project like that. I knew it could be done but have never seen detailed pics like yours of an adapter being made. Dumb question here but the thickness of the adapter plate must be fairly critical to ensure the mainshaft fits at the proper depth? If that plate is too thick or too thin the mainshaft would be too long or too short, right? Correct Sir, the first step was to get the flywheel machined to accept a clutch/pressure plate and work out the pilot bearing. In this case my clutch guy recommended a ball bearing that Ford has used for years, as luck would have it, it fit the center of the flywheel perfectly!, and had plenty of room back and forth for adjustment. At this point I had the 1/4" and 1/2" plate fit to the block and the starter hole bored, this gave me a base to work off of. Then I rolled the trans/bellhsg. up to the engine and inserted the input shaft through the clutch and pilot bearing... then measured the gap between the bell and aluminum plates after carefully checking clutch to front bearing retainer clearance, input shaft to pilot bearing proper fit. Lots going on in a tight spot... When I was satisfied and again re measuring the bell to plate gap I decided 3/4" was the magic number.... At that point I cut a template from 3/4" plywood, transferred the holes and tapped the plywood where need be and bolted it together as an assembly, at this point I was able to release the clutch, all seemed well, I then made the 3/4" aluminum plate. Its not really difficult work, just makes you think, LOL... I am fortunate I have much of the needed tools to do this type of work and have only spent money on aluminum and some machine work on the flywheel, as I do not have a big enough lathe to turn it myself. The flywheel work was done at our local Caterpillar shop, they charged me nothing, but I tipped the machinist $100 as he did a fantastic job and I want to be on his good side, LOL Lee
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Post by Deleted on Jan 19, 2016 6:25:35 GMT -5
I am indeed impressed Captain! Very nice work!
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Post by Deleted on Feb 14, 2016 19:41:54 GMT -5
I spent some quality time in the garage today assembling my T-18 4 speed transmission, assembly of the lower end went well, then I moved to the main shaft as I have a new one to install as part of the Novak adapter... The new shaft is a very well built part, no Chi-Coms ever laid there mits on this...... So I also need to disassemble the syncro's and clean everything and transfer the parts to the new shaft, well the one assembly has three 5/16" poppet balls and three 3/8" poppet balls, so I took it apart inside a tall sided box to contain the explosion, all went well till go together time. I now need three 3/8" balls, one was recovered on the workbench, number two and three bounced around the garage like a pinball machine and at the speed of light.... Unreal how a small spring can propell a little ball like that and maintain horizontal flight....... Till next time! Lee
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Post by Deleted on Feb 14, 2016 21:27:12 GMT -5
I got a pair'o 2" balls. (If'n you wanna borrey a trailer). Keep up the nice work Cap'n!.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 15, 2016 7:01:06 GMT -5
Rick, inspect the east side of your house, pretty sure there is a 3/8" dent in the siding.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 15, 2016 18:12:36 GMT -5
Hey Capn', maybe one should have a strong magnet hanging around when disassembling such stuff!! Might make small ball collection a little easier! Just sayin!
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Post by Deleted on Feb 15, 2016 19:20:13 GMT -5
Hey Capn', maybe one should have a strong magnet hanging around when disassembling such stuff!! Might make small ball collection a little easier! Just sayin! LOL, I had a tall sided box to collect the Flying objects that worked well!, I just had a Haines Garage Moment and got a little cocky, started working out of the box....... 6 fresh 3/8" steel balls from Fastenall (I only need 3). Mr. Murphy will not make another appearance.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 15, 2016 21:59:08 GMT -5
I found the divot and ball. Happy you didn't shoot my Mule. Working/Thinking OS the box? I know this of you Cap'n.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 16, 2016 9:08:59 GMT -5
Yep, I've been where you are too many times. Hours of looking in , around, above and below to no avail. You'll find all of them in the next two or three years while doing something else. I've often though of a clean room painted white with a white table in the center for such activities. I'll be joining you shortly. V 2203 is on the way, turbo, on the way, Kubota key switch, on the way. Many system thoughts/ideas are rolling in my head. Question: how did you mount the dial gauge inside the bell housing to check centering of the hole with the crank? I have a dial gauge with a manetic base, but I can't see inside your bell. I'd also like to know the OD and ID and part number of your Ford pilot bearing. If it's the same ID as my Jeep 6 cylinder input, I like that idea. Signed Kubota Leaker.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 16, 2016 10:35:04 GMT -5
All this talk of Kuboters, B/W T-18s & Turbos has got the Muleskinner all Jelloness!
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Post by Deleted on Feb 16, 2016 11:45:13 GMT -5
Hey Capn', maybe one should have a strong magnet hanging around when disassembling such stuff!! Might make small ball collection a little easier! Just sayin! LOL, I had a tall sided box to collect the Flying objects that worked well!, I just had a Haines Garage Moment and got a little cocky, started working out of the box....... 6 fresh 3/8" steel balls from Fastenall (I only need 3). Mr. Murphy will not make another appearance. Now you’ve gone and done it. NEVER turn your back on Murphy!
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Post by Deleted on Feb 22, 2016 22:22:30 GMT -5
Well Scoutpilot is very wise, never turn your back on Murphy!........... Last week I overcame my poppet ball/syncro's dilemma, a little studying after pulling my head from my ass it all fell together, this evening I was transferring the goodies on the main shaft to the new Novak shaft, had to do a little polishing and de burring on the new shaft, all well there.......... Then I slipped the new EBay input shaft into place and no go!, the area where the blocking ring sits is too F ing big, A call to Novak will correct this tomorrow. I am very impressed with Novak, very friendly and knowledgable, and the trans parts I have purchased were reasonably priced. . Now I will attempt to answer questions asked in above posts! Binthere, I cannot use a powerful magnet, it sticks to the steel plate in my head. Oilleaker, the dial indicator is magnet mount, stuck it to the flywheel. I will measure the bearing for you, And get the p/n Sir Muleskinner, you do need a modified Jeep, you find the donor, weel tell you what to put in it for power ect, never seen a Packard V 12 in a Jeep! Lee
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Post by Deleted on Feb 23, 2016 7:11:06 GMT -5
This diesel project is right in line with the other 3 projects on the CJ2A page. This one of Lee's is a upgrade to 85 HP over the 60HP standard projects. Lee will bust their chops in a race I think. Mine will be the slowest. My pickup is 900 pounds heavier. Still will be fun. My grandson is a diesel fanatic. Some day Evanston will be his. Each of all these projects is unique because the people building them have different ideas, and in the end will all work. Pretty cool. All share their ideas freely, Jeep guys again! A good bunch.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 1, 2016 22:36:12 GMT -5
Well now I have two (2) incorrect I put shafts, one cheap one, one very expensive one that looks to be made by the same people, call to Novak tomorrow!
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Post by Deleted on Mar 2, 2016 6:29:59 GMT -5
I talked to the Captain while he was driving home from work. He was excited about the package with this shaft being on the front porch waiting for him. I'll bet this felt like a MD Juan part, that was brand new and didn't fit. Tell them you want a pre-paid pick up slip pronto!!!!!!!!!
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Post by Deleted on Mar 2, 2016 18:06:59 GMT -5
I'm not sure where you're going Sir John? My original grill bolted right up to my MD Juan tub!
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Post by Deleted on Mar 2, 2016 19:29:45 GMT -5
Chuck, you don't want to go there. My butt has been burned off by MD Juan. I view them alot like Omix Ada. I avoid them when at all possible. Sometimes you have to buy a piece from them, and it fits like crap. Like I said you need a hour to hear all my beefs. Oilly
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Post by Deleted on Mar 2, 2016 21:20:06 GMT -5
All will be well after another wait for parts, a different bearing, seal, and a late style blocking ring will make it all good, so they say!, bastages.
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