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Post by Haines Garage on May 14, 2015 19:05:04 GMT -5
Ok, sorry for the off topic post, but HG has a problem here and will not accept the truth!  What problem......? I see you are posting pirate smileys again...!!!' Hmmmmmmm |
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Post by Deleted on May 14, 2015 20:06:06 GMT -5
Moosey, again I am sorry for the off topic post  HG I was on the Ipad, all works there  Pirate smiley |
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Post by Deleted on May 15, 2015 6:27:26 GMT -5
The shift rail needs replacement, and I'm wondering where all the rest of the metal is coming from. I had a bad bearing in the front of my T 90 eat the tin seperator for the rollers and all that stuff made it's way into all the other stuff and destroyed pretty much the whole transmission. Not funny. T84's are more expensive than a T90 to buy parts for. Hopefully that stuff didn't get between the thrusts and eat the cast iron case machined surface. I'm interested in seeing what you find Moosey! Oil
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Post by Deleted on May 15, 2015 7:02:13 GMT -5
The shift rail needs replacement, and I'm wondering where all the rest of the metal is coming from. I had a bad bearing in the front of my T 90 eat the tin seperator for the rollers and all that stuff made it's way into all the other stuff and destroyed pretty much the whole transmission. Not funny. T84's are more expensive than a T90 to buy parts for. Hopefully that stuff didn't get between the thrusts and eat the cast iron case machined surface. I'm interested in seeing what you find Moosey! Oil Those are my exact same thoughts and fears. The metal shreds you saw in the picture were sitting in a small WD40 cap. That was only a tiny portion of what I dug out. I kept thinking it was way more material than what should have been in the rail crater. And then how it was all so finely shredded! |
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Post by Deleted on May 15, 2015 14:44:09 GMT -5
Is there a way to adequately "flush" the components within the transmission without having to remove the gearbox and disassemble everything? Can you douse all the gears with that concoction the the professor recommended I use when I was trying to unseize that stuck piston a few months ago...ATF and something else, I think it was.
I'd love to spray it all down and then run my magnet across the bottom of the box.
This afternoon I was investigating my gear stick. The bottom of it appears to have some fresh wounds. I knew it was wearing down, but it's pace may have been accelerated. It could be the source ( or another one) for the shredded metal.
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T84 noise
May 15, 2015 16:25:00 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by Deleted on May 15, 2015 16:25:00 GMT -5
Is there a way to adequately "flush" the components within the transmission without having to remove the gearbox and disassemble everything? Can you douse all the gears with that concoction the the professor recommended I use when I was trying to unseize that stuck piston a few months ago...ATF and something else, I think it was. I'd love to spray it all down and then run my magnet across the bottom of the box. This afternoon I was investigating my gear stick. The bottom of it appears to have some fresh wounds. I knew it was wearing down, but it's pace may have been accelerated. It could be the source ( or another one) for the shredded metal. How 'bout good ole #2 diesel fuel..... Seriously....I've done it a few times to flush out tractor transmissions. Drain the oil, pull the floor board inspection plate then the shift tower, fill 'er up with diesel. Put the cover on temporary, then idle it in gear with the rear axle on jack stands for a few minutes. (Be sure to have it in two wheel drive.), drain, repeat if you feel froggy..... Unlike gas, or most solvents, Diesel fuel has enough "oiliness" to it that it won't hurt anything, as long as you don't try to do something like drive it to mt pleasent or any other distance. |
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Post by Deleted on May 15, 2015 16:39:12 GMT -5
Diesel #2 x 2!!!!!! Oilly
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Post by Deleted on May 23, 2015 8:29:59 GMT -5
Yesterday, I did the diesel idle and flush, idle and flush. I then fished out with a magnet what I think we're the last remaining metal bits. I sourced some NOS shift rails, too. I pulled the rear cover off of the transfer case, removed the gear and stood down for the day. This morning I figured I'd slide out the 1st/rev shift rail since it was the heavily pitted one. Everything was going smoothly...didn't lose the poppet ball, pushed the rail through the shift fork....easy peasy.
...and then CLUNK! I pushed the rail smack dab into the rear wall of the transfer case. Damn. Soooooo close. Bummer.
I also picked up a repro shift stick. Comparing it to my original, the original stick is well worn. I wonder with each shift of the stick, if it carved a small sliver of steel off of the end. I'll start with replacing the sticks and then see what happens.
On the down side, the repro shift cane is slightly different than the original. Not excited about that, but I'll get over it.
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Post by Deleted on May 23, 2015 17:02:16 GMT -5
That's interesting news. The thread I read was for replacing the poppet ball and springs, but they never said you could not remove the rail. If you pull the transfercase, make sure you tie off the mainshaft to the cover bolts with wire or you could pull the mainshaft out of the input or main drive gear and dump out all the roller needles. Are you now pulling it all? The pain in the butt clutch fork makes it tougher. Oh the descriptive words flow freely in that bastage of a process.  |
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Post by Deleted on May 25, 2015 12:58:46 GMT -5
After a bit more monkeying around and what not this morning, I thought I might have it shored up and able to drive to work today. I redid the whole diesel and drain process only to find more steel shreds. Bummer.
I really scrutinized the gears and finally found something that appeared to be askew. I snapped a few pictures and sent them to Oilly. He confirmed my suspicions when comparing them to some NOS parts.
Looks like we may have discovered where the shreds are originating from: 2nd gear is slowly being tapered away. However, the cause is still unknown. That probably will not be determined until I get the unit out and disassembled. Its got to be from the main cluster gear, but I'm not sure why its not lining up correctly. The unit has been together for 7 years, no issues. Perhaps the bronze/brass parts are now wearing out?
To be continued....
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Post by Deleted on May 25, 2015 16:00:52 GMT -5
Yesterday, I did the diesel idle and flush, idle and flush. I then fished out with a magnet what I think we're the last remaining metal bits. I sourced some NOS shift rails, too. I pulled the rear cover off of the transfer case, removed the gear and stood down for the day. This morning I figured I'd slide out the 1st/rev shift rail since it was the heavily pitted one. Everything was going smoothly...didn't lose the poppet ball, pushed the rail through the shift fork....easy peasy. ...and then CLUNK! I pushed the rail smack dab into the rear wall of the transfer case. Damn. Soooooo close. Bummer. I also picked up a repro shift stick. Comparing it to my original, the original stick is well worn. I wonder with each shift of the stick, if it carved a small sliver of steel off of the end. I'll start with replacing the sticks and then see what happens. On the down side, the repro shift cane is slightly different than the original. Not excited about that, but I'll get over it. Mongo must have bent your cane while shifting.  No one tells Mongo what to do, unless they don't care about bodily injury. Mongo's best friend is Bubba. Oil |
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Post by jeffwho on May 25, 2015 16:24:32 GMT -5
NOT IT! I bend my own stick, Dr. Banner! Moosey is WAY too smart to let me drive WarrenPeace ...
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Post by Deleted on May 25, 2015 19:37:59 GMT -5
You peanut gallery inhabitants make jokes about shifting too hard, but....
...when I pull the transmission, I'll post a picture of the two sticks. They definitely do not make the repros with the same technique. The original has a definitive spot where the bend takes place. The repro looks like they heated it up and put it in a pipe bender. It has a long slow curve the creates a much sharper angle in the end. Just guessing, it would be like the original cane would be around 150 degrees, and the repro is 135 degrees. But that's the least of my concerns anymore.
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Post by jeffwho on May 26, 2015 9:13:51 GMT -5
So Moosey you wanna reprioritise on GPW's GPW and do your tranny on Wednesday? I might, cough cough, be coming down with something ..
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Post by Deleted on May 26, 2015 14:03:21 GMT -5
I don't know. I keep hoping that the cobbler's elves will show up and magically fix everything. I'm stalling on my own. I blame the garage and it's ridiculous state of disorganized chaos as the major attitude deterrent to the project. I would much rather work on somebody else's jeep than my own. I wonder if that is because of having a lack of emotional attachment when working on another jeep?
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Post by Deleted on May 26, 2015 18:41:21 GMT -5
No Moosey, it's the idea of having to go back into something that was supposed to be fixed. Wasted forward motion. I waste quite a bit of it. oilly
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Post by jeffwho on May 27, 2015 8:50:46 GMT -5
Might be the deeper desire to be driving instead of turning wrenches ... NOT to say you don't get to drive other people's jeeps, but I know I am almost in conniptions thinking "If anything happens, I buy all them parts" when I drive anyone else's MV - ESPECIALLY over that bridge. OR, in Moosey's case, it might be just knowing that someone will be standing, there asking questions, instead of him just just singing his theme song in peace...
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Post by Deleted on Jun 5, 2015 13:29:38 GMT -5
Soooooo....I removed the transmission today and disassembled it on my workbench. Ive found the source of the shredded steel.  The rear washer on the big cluster gear was virtually disintegrated. In the process, it has rubbed away the case's surface area cutting a channel into it as well as carving away the pin that holds the rear washer from spinning. Im pretty bummed out. I think the case is now useless beyond repair. Being an F guy, I'm sad that this happened to my '45 dated GPW marked T84 case. Well, at least now I know where the problem originated. |
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Post by jeffwho on Jun 5, 2015 14:56:37 GMT -5
OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOH NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
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Post by Deleted on Jun 5, 2015 16:52:15 GMT -5
1) what caused it ? 2) it can be repaired! |
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Post by Deleted on Jun 5, 2015 19:04:41 GMT -5
That's pretty bad. If you milled it and built a washer with locating pin, I'm not sure there is enough material left to fix it. The F case is pretty F'd. Hey, just drop a T 90 in it and cut the floor so it will fit! signed Bubba.
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Post by jeffwho on Jun 6, 2015 7:19:27 GMT -5
Since all I've ever done with a welder is to stare at the "pretty blue light" from afar, I wondered if one of you crafty mechanics would come up with a solution to this. I looked at that damage and wondered if it would be possible to weld a washer, design and affix a pin and be able to rely on it to not come apart given the gear oil and pressure (if any) on it in the original case. I guess it comes down to the welder's ability and assigning whether the risk is worth the potential reward. So, Moosey, what would you think if someone were to ask you to send it for an attempt at a repair? I know your earless amphibian replacement can't be used, and now you have to wait on another ...
A fantastic feat for a fool on this forum for a feature for this forum on that fix?
(Holy alliterative F, Batman!)
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Post by Deleted on Jun 6, 2015 11:45:44 GMT -5
My best thought at the moment is to have it ground flat. I would bring it to a machinist along with the NOS busted case I have, so he could obtain the original specs. I'd also bring along the washer that rides on the pin between the case and the main cluster gear. My thought would be to mill off enough of the case to fit two washers. He would need to then need to fabricate a pin into the case.
But that's just my thought.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 6, 2015 12:52:07 GMT -5
Ole in North Dakota thinks you two old boys are pretty fart smellers. I tink dat might be just mighty fine.  |
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Post by Haines Garage on Jun 6, 2015 13:07:25 GMT -5
Machine shop would be Simmons Balancing on HWY 61
Oil leaker What in the hell are you talking about?
After I got done laughing at your post, I read it again and laughed some more!!!!
Pretty Fart Smellers indeed!!!!
That's some Fing Funny Stuff!!!!
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No one tells Mongo what to do, unless they don't care about bodily injury. Mongo's best friend is Bubba. Oil
