Match maker with Gennys and VRs

[Deleted]

OK...another friend has asked for help. His '42 GPW has never been electrically sound and also has starting issues. No, not HG, although HG knows this local buffoon whom I'm talking about. I haven't gotten dirty on his jeep, yet, although I might end up over there tomorrow afternoon.

I do know way back when when he first got the jeep, it did not have a VR in it. His other friends talked him into buying the inexpensive postwar types. Funny, thinking about it, they, too, have electrical issues. I've never been a fan of this practice. Anyways, do any of you know anywhere on the web where some sort of compatibility chart can be found to see if his set up works?

His VR says: Regulator model B5AF-10505-A marked 7 and 6 volt, 35 amp. He can't find any distinguishing marks on his genny. I'll see it tomorrow. For the sake of this exercise, let's ASSUME it is a GEG 5001A, GEG 5002D, or GEG 5101D standard wartime autolite 6 volt model

I did a quick google search and this VR shows up a lot on eBay...early '50s trucks.

There are some other issues he has, but at the moment I'm curious about the genny and VR setup.

[Haines Garage]

Yep.... Love that Baffoon as well.
I have no idea WTF you are talking about...!

[Deleted]

I know enough to be of danger ........... Ok the wartime generator, and the postwar CJ2A and later generators are "NOT" interchangeable. A WW2 set is wired with an "A" field and it's civy brother is a "B" field (It may be the other way around, I have a poor memory), anyway you cannot use a WW2 generator with a CJ2A regulator, or a 2A gen with a WW2 reg. So Tallboots if your pal has a 2A regulator it will not work!. Also you will need to "Polarize the Field" on a new gen/reg set (google is your friend on this).

[Deleted]

Pictures will help also!

[Deleted]

Haha! I thought so, Lee. Thanks. I'll snap a picture of them both.

I told him about polarization many moons ago, but if the pair ain't compatible, it doesn't matter anyways.

HG...I'll give you the backstory one day soon...when I John Wayne and Chuck Norris your @ss and then make you take me to lunch.

[Haines Garage]

Oct 3, 2014 19:08:07 GMT -5 @themoose74 said:

Haha! I thought so, Lee. Thanks. I'll snap a picture of them both.

I told him about polarization many moons ago, but if the pair ain't compatible, it doesn't matter anyways.

HG...I'll give you the backstory one day soon...when I John Wayne and Chuck Norris your @ss and then make you take me to lunch.

Sounds good to me... Stories about Uyak , I like. He's a good dude.
Lunch....maybe sometime soon. That would be cool.
But......

[Haines Garage]

All joking aside, this could be a very valuable thread.

[Deleted]

The civvy generators where A circuit, the regulator grounded the field. A "B" circuit the field is energized by the regulator. (Mostly seen on Fords, by the way).

A quick test with a multimeter can be made: If your read continuity between the Generator FIELD terminal and the ARM terminal it's a A circuit. If you read continuity between the FIELD terminal and the housing, it's a B circuit. EDIT: I FORGOT TO MENTION, you have to isolate the brushes from the armature before doing this test or you get a false reading.. Sorry.

Edit: I've been digging through my very limited research library, B5AF-10505-A looks to be a Ford part number, so it very well could be a "B" circuit regulator, but I'm still digging....

[Deleted]

This I didn't know. I must have just got lucky and mine worked with a new harness. Do the A and B circuit generators have a different case # stamped in the shell of the generator? Also, Ive had voltage regulators with dirty point contacts, or stuck contacts. When freed up and cleaned, they started working when I polarised them. Next: do the A and B circuits polarise different? Gary will tell us. He's our "Sparky". Oilly

[Deleted]

MOOSE: BE SURE YOU SEE MY EDIT IN THE PREVIOUS POST!!

Oily, I give it my best.... A and B circuit generators have a different part numbers, varying by manufacturer, this is where having the books the old timers had would be a blessing! Although, that being said, some generators where reconfigured internally to be one or the other.

To polarize: A circuit, use a jumper (or pliers) between the BAT and ARM. term on the regulator, just a quick flash should do..

B circuit, remove the wire from the FLD term and touch it to the BAT terminal.

There was a fellow who operated a rebuild shop here local, he had long shaggy hair, shirt always unbuttoned, and always covered in grease.
I wish I had a chance to bend his ear more before he died...he was good at what he did!

[Deleted]

I didn't have a chance to play jeep today...long story short, I went deep into my WC, son's soccer game was late and wife had me running across town collecting pallets (about 150 of them- don't ask).

But thank you for that wealth of knowledge. After reading it, I remembered that I once knew some of that stuff, but I have long ago forgotten it. As for telling which is the A and B circuits, I remember finding a website where the gentleman explained a simple test to decipher...but I can't remember it! Maybe his name was Dr. Vern or Verner...legendary CJ guy. I bet somebody hear knows what I'm babbling about!

[Deleted]

It was Dr Vern, I remember it. Pallets Moving?

[Deleted]

poke here

[Deleted]

Oct 4, 2014 20:49:10 GMT -5 @gmcjr said:

It was Dr Vern, I remember it. Pallets Moving?

I'd bet new industrial type furniture.........or firewood...... I am most likely wrong, women today are into re-purposing!... so god only knows

[Deleted]

Oct 4, 2014 20:49:10 GMT -5 @gmcjr said:

It was Dr Vern, I remember it. Pallets Moving?

That's the one!

Pallets...yeah...by the hundreds! My poor jeep hauling trying has been reduced to that kind of manual labor. She is going to make a Mack daddy maze for the kids to run through on Halloween...at our party. Well, the 8 year olds and Schiller.

[Deleted]

I thought you was increasing your goat herd, and just needed cheap fencing... Lol!

[Deleted]

GREAT IDEA! Unfortunately HG is still holding my goat in captivity. It takes two to tango.

My wife did mention "chicken runs!" When I asked her what we do with 150 pallets on Nov 1. Her other idea was to use them to build a dilapidated barn that I love to look at. She said my jeeps would look like bonafide barn finds then.

[Deleted]

Oct 4, 2014 21:47:01 GMT -5 @gmcjr said:

poke here

Oh....no! Horrors! I don't think Dr. Vern's website works anymore!!

I was going to help Detard with his generator today. He posted elsewhere here that he wasn't sure what Genny he had. I' figured we'd start by determining if it was an A or B circuit generator. I never memorized the info on Dr. Vern's page...

...I've been saying for a long time that all of our knowledge will soon be lost because of too much internet reliability. And so it begins.

Is the info I search for posted elsewhere?

[Deleted]

I went and looked at the generator prices for a B type WW2 unit. 550.00 -750.00 dollars!!!!!!!! Wow. Oil

[Moosie]

What??!  You must have found NOS direct from a warehouse in the Netherlands or something!  Granted, it was 7 years ago, but I bought mine from Brent Mullins for around $150-$200.  Have you checked with him?  Is Bugsy running with an alternator?

is it just me, or does Dr Verns site appear to be offline?

[Deleted]

It's not offline. I checked on it. Google says may have malware. My own Apple says it may have malware. Also says may not be the site itself but the host. Click on it if you dare. Just remember, malware could infect your email and other comm software.

[Deleted]

Ohhhhhhhhhh. Thanks, Scout. Maybe I'll use Detard's computer. Lol.

[Deleted]

Just don't try it on HG's machine. Loquacious as he is, we may all become infected.

[Deleted]

Moosey, they all want a rebuildable core. They add another 2-300 if it is a outright purchase. Then you have to ship it on top of that. Luckily, Bugsey has a good working generator. I just have to get the regulator adjusted. The stupid regulator is 250.00. We'll see how things go when phase two begins and I go out for another check ride. You never know how many phases until she's done. My attack plan is to get it all WW2 and as correct as I can, and drive him. I'm not going down to the frame. I may never. I like that original patina look quite a bit. Was thinking of the hood number and stars applied right over that old paint. Bugsey will look like he just came back from WW2. I did restore the glovebox and have it finished. All the correct plates and numbers are back on him. That Ford logo on the middle plate sure looks cool. I'm welding on the correct rifle rack brackets soon, fixing the broken windshield, and trying to re-weld the hood back together. I took Bubba's stove bolts off the hinge area and lifted off the hood while the hinge and channel stayed! Some people's idea on fixing things---------just don't get it. Still thinking of another hood. We'll see how that goes. Unless you buy a WW2 Jeep all done and nice, I've seldom seen one that was in primo shape. Finding one with matching numbers is hard enough, so I feel OK with Bugsey. He has that 19 year old blue eyed blond look wearing a bikini type appearance. You walk in and----------oh what a scene. Green Disease. Oil

[jeffwho]

Hi boys, nice to be able to get out of a meeting and join in this thread. ANYHOO, the VR I have is just the core (I need the enclosure still) from RFJP marked "B" and the generator is dated 4/1945 on the armature (I swear I mentioned this in a previous post...) and also has the stamp GEG-2134F followed by the Autolite trademark. I didn't see this in the TM9-1825B manual in the list of generators, all four types. Very strange that it's dated, but not listed.

According to a post on The Gee, "the Autolite GEG-2134F armature was used in generator GEG-5101D" (Chuck Lutz) so now I'm going to try and find more corroborating evidence as to what VR is needed to be compatible.  I am still not sure there are markings on the generator anywhere to ID it as a GEG-5101D but I can look  - sure wished I'd have see this BEFORE I put it back in the jeep!