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Post by zooke581 on Aug 24, 2014 17:46:29 GMT -5
What are you all setting your valve clearance at? Book says 16 but some set it at 15. What say you all?  Everything looks good inside. Thought they were a bit noisy but they currently check out at 16 so far. I am using 10w30 but heard you should use 20w50 or a 30w diesel type oil. |
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Post by Deleted on Aug 24, 2014 18:20:03 GMT -5
I use .015, (Edit: .016, fat fingers)I've been plagued with noisy valves ever since I've put my engine 10 years ago or so. In all honesty, most tappets, unless new, are dished at the top. Which adds a couple thou or so to the clearence, I'd imagine. In theory, the tappet adjustments are 1/4-28 pitch, so if you take up all the slack, and each flat you back off should be aprox. 0.006, but again that's theory. Feeler guage is probably best....
As far as oil, Rotella T 15w-40 is my preferred. Diesel oil supposedly still has zinc in it, which they say is a good anti wear additive for flat tappet valve trains. I use that oil in all of my engines, except for my wife' s little Cobalt.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 24, 2014 18:22:55 GMT -5
I'd stay at 16, I like to hear them a little. Better than a putt putt from the exhaust due to too tight. I use 15-40 Rotella also and love it. Good stuff . John PS your valve springs are backwards. The tight coil side goes up against the head. Probably to deal with heat better.
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Post by zooke581 on Aug 24, 2014 18:30:12 GMT -5
I'll do a quick recheck tomorrow and put on the new gasket. Old one was leaking and I'll go with Rotella. Can get that at Tractor Supply. Guys at the show last week said to go thicker than the 10w40 as was recommended by their engine builders. Might be why some of the extra noise.
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Post by Haines Garage on Aug 24, 2014 20:01:57 GMT -5
I'd stay at 16, I like to hear them a little. Better than a putt putt from the exhaust due to too tight. I use 15-40 Rotella also and love it. Good stuff . John PS your valve springs are backwards. The tight coil side goes up against the head. Probably to deal with heat better. 100% sure ? That would be great in tech talk. ! Someone do a valve spring thread ! I vote you General !! |
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Post by Haines Garage on Aug 24, 2014 20:13:58 GMT -5
And a valve adjusting thread !!!
This is for posterity !
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Post by zooke581 on Aug 24, 2014 20:26:35 GMT -5
I'd stay at 16, I like to hear them a little. Better than a putt putt from the exhaust due to too tight. I use 15-40 Rotella also and love it. Good stuff . John PS your valve springs are backwards. The tight coil side goes up against the head. Probably to deal with heat better. This is a Supersonic that was in the Jeep when I got it. Guess whoever did it put it together wrong. Wasn't me.  |
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Post by Haines Garage on Aug 24, 2014 20:31:34 GMT -5
That's why I elected the Big Boys to do a thread. !
That means you General Leaker, and your side kick Captain Leemeister!!
Chop chop!!
Get it done.... You have your mission!
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Post by Deleted on Aug 24, 2014 20:32:10 GMT -5
I'd stay at 16, I like to hear them a little. Better than a putt putt from the exhaust due to too tight. I use 15-40 Rotella also and love it. Good stuff . John PS your valve springs are backwards. The tight coil side goes up against the head. Probably to deal with heat better. X2, I agree 200%. I like mine on the loose side, after all we are not dealing with a Rolls Royce here. My old friend Bob always told me, on old solid lifter engines a little ticking is better than none, the valve will cool better as it can transfer the heat to the seat better. If you get them too tight you risk warping and burning of the valves. I do not think the oil will make any difference, it may with hydraulic lifters!. I wouldn't worry much of the valve springs. MHO, Lee  By the way I use Mobil MX15-40, diesel oil with all the good stuff for pre tier 4 engines!  |
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Post by Haines Garage on Aug 24, 2014 20:37:42 GMT -5
I'd stay at 16, I like to hear them a little. Better than a putt putt from the exhaust due to too tight. I use 15-40 Rotella also and love it. Good stuff . John PS your valve springs are backwards. The tight coil side goes up against the head. Probably to deal with heat better. X2, I agree 200%. I like mine on the loose side, after all we are not dealing with a Rolls Royce here. My old friend Bob always told me, on old solid lifter engines a little ticking is better than none, the valve will cool better as it can transfer the heat to the seat better. If you get them too tight you risk warping and burning of the valves. I do not think the oil will make any difference, it may with hydraulic lifters!. I wouldn't worry much of the valve springs. MHO, Lee By the way I use Mobil MX15-40, diesel oil with all the good stuff for pre tier 4 engines! Hello.... Since you have so much to tell , now you and the General are responsible for a Valve Thread , and a Fluids a Thread ! Do your homework or else .......... I'm waiting!!! |
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Post by zooke581 on Aug 24, 2014 20:43:27 GMT -5
Just did some research and found pics of valves done just like mine. One of the picks was athawks11 and they were just the same tight wind to the bottom. athawks11 pic.  |
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Post by Deleted on Aug 24, 2014 20:51:13 GMT -5
X2, I agree 200%. I like mine on the loose side, after all we are not dealing with a Rolls Royce here. My old friend Bob always told me, on old solid lifter engines a little ticking is better than none, the valve will cool better as it can transfer the heat to the seat better. If you get them too tight you risk warping and burning of the valves. I do not think the oil will make any difference, it may with hydraulic lifters!. I wouldn't worry much of the valve springs. MHO, Lee By the way I use Mobil MX15-40, diesel oil with all the good stuff for pre tier 4 engines! Hello.... Since you have so much to tell , now you and the General are responsible for a Valve Thread , and a Fluids a Thread ! Do your homework or else .......... I'm waiting!!! Ok and I will start the thread in the "New Members Sighn on Section" in true Haines Garage fashion!........or exactly where it does not belong , and "Chop-chop" Leaker  lee  |
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Post by Deleted on Aug 24, 2014 21:03:25 GMT -5
Just did some research and found pics of valves done just like mine. One of the picks was athawks11 and they were just the same tight wind to the bottom. athawks11 pic. I just looked in the Will-is manual and Sir leaker is correct " Closed coils of the springs to be placed UP to seat in the block"..............Again I would not loose any sleep over this, MHO. Lee |
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Post by Deleted on Aug 24, 2014 21:03:57 GMT -5
I remember a old fogieism when it comes to valves, If you can hear 'em, they ain't burning.... For what that's worth.....
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Post by zooke581 on Aug 24, 2014 21:12:50 GMT -5
I have close to 800mi on it since I got it running and no problems so No Sleep Lost. Thanks for all the input so far.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 25, 2014 7:07:36 GMT -5
To change them, you risk dropping the collets down the holes into the cam and pan, and you'll have to pull the head so you could lift the valve stems out of the way. I did one once with the head on, but don't want to do it again. Took about 2 hours for one! Yuk. Dad is ordering Lee and I around again!  oil |
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Post by Deleted on Aug 25, 2014 7:41:04 GMT -5
You guys probably already know this, but originally the clearance was to be set at 14, but at some point (either at the end of the war or early 1946, maybe) Willys sent out a bulletin adjusting it to 16.
When I was looking at the valves over the weekend, the tight coils were near the top...but this engine had been rebuilt sometime in its past.
Jr. was onto something about the tappets being cupped and how to adjust for it. I remember once on the G forum a tutorial for backing of the nuts something like 1/6 of a turn to move it .006. I am probably not exact, but it was something to that effect.
So what happens if they go "tap tap tap" for long times?
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Post by Deleted on Aug 25, 2014 8:17:17 GMT -5
A tick is fine, a clank is not. If it has a nice gentle tick to it, it will run forever. Any loud metallic clank will eventually break something. I like listening to my engines and vehicle as I drive. My dad taught me that. Now, My daughter didn't listen to her engine, just her boom box---------until she heard the rod go through the side of her block. She didn't check the oil either. She said-------" I heard a loud bang".  Oil |
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Post by Deleted on Aug 25, 2014 20:02:09 GMT -5
You guys probably already know this, but originally the clearance was to be set at 14, but at some point (either at the end of the war or early 1946, maybe) Willys sent out a bulletin adjusting it to 16. When I was looking at the valves over the weekend, the tight coils were near the top...but this engine had been rebuilt sometime in its past. Jr. was onto something about the tappets being cupped and how to adjust for it. I remember once on the G forum a tutorial for backing of the nuts something like 1/6 of a turn to move it .006. I am probably not exact, but it was something to that effect. So what happens if they go "tap tap tap" for long times? I'm not on to anything, I'm just running my ignorant head, Bo  They way I see it, if willys wanted you to adjust the valves that way, they would've said so..... But on the other hand, the thread pitch is 28 threads per inch, one complete turn of the adjustment screw would be 1/28 of an inch. Thoughts from the Flatfender Brain Rust? |
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Post by Deleted on Aug 29, 2014 20:55:52 GMT -5
Ok, for the sake of expermentation, even though I can't explain it...
I decided to set the valves in the ole Go-Devil. First I tried the take up all the lash and back off 2.5 flats method, which should have been 0.016 or close to it, drove and took readings with a vac guage.
Today, I re-set the valves, doing it the way Barney Roos and Willys intended, using a 0.016 feeler guage. The feeler guage method resulted in a much steadier vacuum reading, and a smoother running engine, but noisier valves. Which tells me that the non-feeler guage method sets them too tight.
Keep in mind the valve train on my engine is well on the worn side.
Just though Id share...
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Post by zooke581 on Aug 29, 2014 21:10:19 GMT -5
Reset mine two days ago. They are quieter but you can still hear them. Changed the oil. Had about 800 miles on it since I got the Jeep running in road condition on June 5th. Oil was nasty. Put in 30 wt Rotella diesel oil from the 10w40 I had in it. It is quieter and pressure is higher at idle when cold and goes up to 58psi at temp. When hot does drop to 25psi at idle.
Just all them damned leaks. Especially at the aftermarket military fuel pump priming lever. The other I can address and fix in time. Guess it will just have to mark wherever it goes.
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