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Post by Banned Haines? on Jul 11, 2014 17:52:48 GMT -5
Hey! this is a serious thread on fuel pumps  . You scoundrels go bs some other place or I will ban you  Lee  Haha Serious thread indeed! And Sir Billis better produce! I am going to get Haines Garaged on my own site ? What is the world coming to ... Wait...don't answer that...this is a fuel pump thread!!! |
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Post by Deleted on Jul 11, 2014 22:10:55 GMT -5
Ok, I have preliminary test results! . Once again Mr. Murphy has bit me in the a$$. I removed the inverted flair toob between the pump and the carb and installed a hose with a tee and a fuel pressure gage was installed with a couple feet of hose so I can see the gage while driving. I did not like the gage as it is more for a fuel injection test and the graduations are to large for the pressure a flatty puts out and I will look for a more fitting and accurate gage tomorrow for my second test!. Anyway With the current gage it runs a hair over 1 psi, Yes one psi , according to my genuine Will-IS service manual the CJ2A pump should run 4 1/2 psi measured 16" above the pump outlet at 1800 rpm, I am short of that but again with the gage I have it may be ok. I went for a drive tonite and the damn thing ran like a watch. It was cooler ambient temp than last Saturday but I really pushed it I ran 5 miles at 60+ mph with a couple hills and it never missed a beat, and ran a consistent 1 psi throughout the trip of 20 miles  . The two new pumps still in the box must be intimidating the old pump and it is working good enough to not starve the engine. more on this tomorrow.  Lee  |
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Post by Haines Garage on Jul 12, 2014 8:07:35 GMT -5
Captain
Thanks for the write up .
Let's throw this out there...
Cannot pressure be regulated with spacers or shims to the block?
Here we go.........
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Post by Deleted on Jul 12, 2014 12:54:29 GMT -5
Haines, I think that would limit flow, not pressure for the most part. two things will determine pressure, 1) the seat and needles ability to contain it (in carb), 2) the pumps ability to produce it. To separate the two I have pinched off the fuel line after the gage tee to eliminate the seat and needle scenario (1), this told me the pump does not have the ability to make more than 2.5 psi. I picked up a gage at the parts store this morning for testing old school pumps, vac/pressure, 0-10 psi and just what I needed. Installed I have 2-2.5 psi and have determined the pump lacks the ability to produce the 4.5 as stated in the repair manual. Before I remove the pump I will tee in a vaccume gage on the suction side of the pump and see if there is an Issue there. Lee |
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Post by Haines Garage on Jul 12, 2014 15:18:00 GMT -5
Great explanation Captain....Love it!
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Post by Deleted on Jul 13, 2014 19:42:21 GMT -5
Today I rigged up a vacuum gage on the suction side of the pump. I will add if your fuel tank is full you will have fuel leaking from the disconnected fuel pump pick up as it's about the same height!. Anyway I had no issues on the suction side. Here is a shot of the gages, 0 on the vacuum gage means no obstructions in the tank or pick up/fuel line  Here is a little tip for replacing that pesky front fuel pump bolt, take a long bolt and thread a 5/16" nut on it and tighten it with a wrench, it will be much easier to install!.  Here you can see the modified bolt on the front side of the fuel pump (just above the motor mount nut), much easier to install.  Ok with the new pump installed, and at 1800 rpm (or close enough, LOL) here is the gage  Anyway, Mr. Murphy made an appearance on the test drive , the seat and needle stuck in the carb and the carb overflowed with gas so I removed the top and cleaned out the carb bowl, lots of fine rust particles, it amazes me that this stuff gets through the filter I have inline between the tank and pump. All good now . Lee |
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Post by Haines Garage on Jul 14, 2014 23:50:29 GMT -5
Again Captain, Very Valuable information....thank you for sharing!
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Post by Deleted on Aug 4, 2014 21:42:58 GMT -5
UPDATE, All fuel issues are behind me . This problem all started on July 5th with a suspect fuel pump, and that was not the Issue. The fuel pump was not functioning properly due to very fine rust particles that came from the fuel tank and through an inline filter as well. Then I had the seat an needle stick twice resulting in a fuel overflow at the carb. So here is what I did. New fuel tank from Walcks, new fuel line from the parts store, new Wix 1/4" inline filter. New pump was disassembled and completely cleaned and re installed, same for the Carter W-O and that also had crap in it. I also removed the seat from the carb and found a piece of brass shaving in the seat that was holding it open, I can only assume that it cam from the new pump or the inverted flair fittings on the pump as this problem showed after the pump change. All is well now . I will post pictures later in the week of the various findings. Lee
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Post by Deleted on Aug 4, 2014 21:59:32 GMT -5
Thumbs up!!
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Post by Deleted on Aug 9, 2014 19:02:11 GMT -5
So I siphoned out the gas and removed the tank and dumped the remains into this pan, you can see the fine rust particles  Here is what came from the fuel pump, all this came through the inline filter as well.   Here is a shot of the check valves in the old pump, not old old but 6 yo. It was purchased from Northstar Will-is.  Here is the other 1/2  So that's that for the fuel pump, next was the new Walcks tank, made in Taiwan by the way  , so I set it in and all looked good so I installed the mounting hardware and slid under on the creeper to hook up the fuel line  Why o why cant they do it right Here is a shot of the "Corrections"  The tank fit well otherwise and I would say is a fair deal. Lee |
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Post by Deleted on Aug 9, 2014 19:05:51 GMT -5
I do think some of the bigger chunks were in the system prior to the filter install. Anyway all is well and I have over 100 miles since the repairs with no Issues Lee |
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Post by Deleted on Aug 9, 2014 19:07:33 GMT -5
Here is a shot of the tank installed.  Lee |
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Post by Deleted on Aug 9, 2014 22:04:41 GMT -5
That's alot of trash, the little stuff can be the most aggravating!!
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Post by Haines Garage on Aug 9, 2014 22:34:08 GMT -5
That's alot of trash, the little stuff can be the most aggravating!! Amen !!! |
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Post by Deleted on Aug 10, 2014 10:58:34 GMT -5
GOOD STUFF THERE LEE....THANKS FOR POSTING IT UP
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Post by athawk11 on Aug 10, 2014 15:15:51 GMT -5
Excellent information Lee.
Note: I had to trim my tub exactly the same way with my Walcks tank. I had replaced the floor pans, so I figured I did something wrong. It's nice to be vindicated. I'm surprised this replacement tank issue doesn't come up much in the Willys world.
Tim
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Post by Glenn Wiseman on Jan 27, 2016 9:53:57 GMT -5
I have a 58 willys having trouble with line routing as I'm rebuilding it from the frame up is there any diagram that shows routing?
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Post by Haines Garage on Jan 27, 2016 10:48:52 GMT -5
I have a 58 willys having trouble with line routing as I'm rebuilding it from the frame up is there any diagram that shows routing? Hi Glen What type of 58 Willys do you have? |
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Post by Ryan_M on Jan 27, 2016 14:09:14 GMT -5
Excellent information Lee. Note: I had to trim my tub exactly the same way with my Walcks tank. I had replaced the floor pans, so I figured I did something wrong. It's nice to be vindicated. I'm surprised this replacement tank issue doesn't come up much in the Willys world. Tim Old thread but I'm glad it popped up again today. I just bought a new tank from an ebay seller for the red 3A. Great looking tank but same issue. I just chalked it up to previous Bubba bodywork. Looks like I owe bodywork Bubba an apology for calling him names and redirect them to tank-making Bubba instead. |
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Post by jeffwho on Jan 27, 2016 14:57:13 GMT -5
Haha! HG just wants free sh!t and gets his leiderhosen all wadded up when he sees someone else getting a gift!! Lee...I've had no problem rebuilding the fuel pumps in the past. I just need a darn kit. I'm not too keen on having to pay shipping twice along with paying for labor and parts. Sounds like there aren't any suitable rebuild kits out there. I've been using supposed ethanol-free gas in my MVs for the last few years without any fuel componet issues. However, my lawnmower and weed eater get fed the cheap stuff, and, well...those guys have issues! Now, Bobo, you know sure's shooting after working on my jeep I will have to order more parts, so let me know if you want a kit from wherever I order my crap. More slow than sure ...
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Post by surveypunk on Jan 28, 2016 13:15:37 GMT -5
This is my dose of "Fool Pump Bloos" from a few months ago. Oddly the Jeep ran, albeit rather roughly, for about a quarter mile before it conked out. Started when I crossed some railroad tracks. Must have kicked something up and it smacked the pump.  JB |
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Post by rudycon on Feb 16, 2016 10:55:01 GMT -5
Surveypunk: When smacking the fuel pump, don't use basalt track ballast. Use weathered Colorado Granite (Pink Granite if you can find it.) Just trust me on this. I'm the master of hitting fuel pumps with rocks.
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. You scoundrels go bs some other place or I will ban you 
. The two new pumps still in the box must be intimidating the old pump and it is working good enough to not starve the engine. more on this tomorrow. 
, so I set it in and all looked good so I installed the mounting hardware and slid under on the creeper to hook up the fuel line 
