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Post by Deleted on Jan 20, 2014 23:00:38 GMT -5
Tim, pop out a bearing and see if it's date coded, it will not tell you when it was rebuilt but will tell you when the bearing was made. Did you measure the bores?, Also I would use the Iron rings as well, as they seat easier. I learned many years back on 53 series Detroit Diesels that you could get chrome rings or standard Iron rings, The chrome rings were to be used only if the engine was to be broke in on a dyno, as they needed to be seated under a load, if you were not going to dyno the engine then standard Iron rings were to be used. I would also recommend a copper head gasket, I have had the greatest luck with them. Your having fun with this engine, aren't you!, LOL............I bet there are busloads of South Carolina types in Colorado, smoking  . Lee  |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 21, 2014 15:33:40 GMT -5
As far as I know, there has only EVER been one person from South Carolina visit Colorado. I'm pretty sure he was smoking something. And knowing him, it was probably homegrown and laced with stuff from his blasting cabinet.
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Post by Haines Garage on Jan 21, 2014 23:38:10 GMT -5
Wouldn't , couldn't, didn.t ...dont. I love me some swamp water though.
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Post by Haines Garage on Jan 23, 2014 20:38:02 GMT -5
Sir Hawkridge ...Update?
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Post by athawk11 on Jan 23, 2014 22:29:12 GMT -5
Evenin' HG!
I'm in a bit of a holding pattern right now. My neighbor is coming over this weekend with his bore gauge. I have a Flex Hone coming. It should be here tomorrow or Saturday. Just got my new iron rings. I test fit them. According to spec, the acceptable gap is between .007 to .017 for a .040 over piston. My piston is .060 over, which is not listed. As Lee predicted, the rings came with no need to file. A test fit has the gap at .011. Should be good. The gap is tiny compared to the ring gap I found initially.
I've have some cleaning in my future. I hate cleaning.
Tim
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Post by Deleted on Jan 24, 2014 7:37:00 GMT -5
I PERSONALY THINK PREVIOUS OWNER TOOK HONE AND OVER HONED THE CYLINDER WALLS...THEN SOLD HIS RIDE TO UNLOAD IT...
I JUST SPENT $ 2200.00 ON WHAT A PREVIOUS MECHANIC DONE TO A CUSTOMERS ENGINE ..IT HAD BEEN REDONE AND NO GO COMPRESSION HAD TO HAVE IT BORED OUT TO .040 TO MAKE THINGS WORK CORRECTLY..
ANYBODY THAT BORES OUT A BLOCK MORE THAN .060 MIGHT AS WELL HAVE IT SLEEVED PROBLEM SOLVED..FOR WHAT YOUR SPENDING ON TRYING TO FIX TAKE IT TO A SHOP AND HAVE IT DONE THE WAY IT SHOULD BE THEN YOU WONT HAVE ANY ISSUES OVERHEATING OUT THERE IN THE MOUNTAINS..YOUR THROWING GOOD $$ AWAY...
OPINIONS ARE LIKE ARSHOLES ..EVERYBODY HAS ONE ..... BY THE WAY THIS ISNT MY FIRST RODEO RE-BUILDING AN ENGINE HAD A GOOD TEACHER OVER THE YEARS AND STILL HAVE A VERY GOOD TEACHER TO THIS DAY..
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Post by athawk11 on Jan 24, 2014 8:49:28 GMT -5
HillBilly,
Initial measurements have the bore at a consistent 3.184
This is .001 under a .060 over bore. We are seeing it under-bored. Would this be standard procedure for a machinist for the intital bore? Assuming you would lose a small amount of material with the honing process?
Tim
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Post by Deleted on Jan 24, 2014 10:10:57 GMT -5
ya hawk normally they bore only so much then the last clean up is done with a really good honing to bring it into perfect spec.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 24, 2014 10:51:48 GMT -5
MY MACHINE MAN IS OUT SICK WITH THE FLU...ANYHOW LOOK THROUGH THIS BOOK I RECENTLY ACQUIRED ALLL YOUR TECHNICAL INFO ON WHAT YOU SHOULD HAVE AND NEED
TO HAVE IS IN THERE...HOPE IT HELPS YOU OUT AND LET US KNOW eastcoastwillys.proboards.com/thread/670/good-info-piston-sizes-rings?page=1&scrollTo=3413
LOOKS LIKE TO ME IT SHOULD BE FINISHED BORED & HONED TO 3 INCHES  UNSURE BUT YOU SHOULD DOUBLE CHECK AS I BELIEVE IT WAS BORED OUT TOO BIG FOR THE RINGS
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Post by Haines Garage on Jan 30, 2014 22:32:57 GMT -5
Sir Hawkridge..any update?
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UNSURE BUT YOU SHOULD DOUBLE CHECK AS I BELIEVE IT WAS BORED OUT TOO BIG FOR THE RINGS