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Post by Haines Garage on Dec 8, 2013 21:04:43 GMT -5
You are 100% correct...look at you go....I learned of the A markings from the machine shop I use.
More Data for your Table ...Look out!!
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Post by Deleted on Dec 8, 2013 21:22:31 GMT -5
You are 100% correct...look at you go....I learned of the A markings from the machine shop I use. More Data for your Table ...Look out!! Sooooooo, you been hold'in out on us?  ? ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D Lee  |
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Post by Haines Garage on Dec 8, 2013 22:47:20 GMT -5
No Sir.... I feel as if I have a "buy back" engine from an VEC . I talked about it on other forums and was told no. All the signs are there, and you hit on one...The A markings...  Just to add, this motor had a 100% correct MB marked oil pump on it. I sold it, and pictures were well....lost so to say Another thing to remember here, I have been through 5 Blocks to get 2 that were even re-buildable. This is going to get exciting |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 9, 2013 13:24:34 GMT -5
lee the cam and crank, which one needs to be stored vertical as to not warp? ( i will be tearing into an F head within a year or 2 so i think i am going to be storing it all on a shelf for a while.)
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Post by Deleted on Dec 9, 2013 23:41:35 GMT -5
Schimmmmms, the crank ;D, and do not store it directly on a concrete floor as it rusts the surface in a short order, if your crank is serviceable I would cover it in heavy oil or grease to protect it. Lee |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 10, 2013 0:20:34 GMT -5
thanks, i am debating if i will tear into my new f head this coming up new years while i am up north or if i will let it be until the time comes to rebuild it, ( a few years at this rate) if i do tear into it i may do a similar picture filled disassembly just to show the F head off to the group. but how do you get your photos to post here so smoothly? i have to fight it every time.
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Post by athawk11 on Dec 10, 2013 18:23:06 GMT -5
I have to say, this has been a very informative tutorial. Whitey's engine is a runner, so I don't think I'm going to need to tear deeply into it, but if the compression test is lack-luster, I will.
I did buy a spare engine that I intend on trying to refurb. You are giving me confidence to dive in. Going to pick up an engine stand this weekend.
Tim
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Post by Deleted on Dec 10, 2013 18:58:45 GMT -5
Schimmmms, You and I have cussed the photo posting here forever, right! ;D, So after trying everything I called up the Haines Garage for a tutorial , He most likely regrets this now, but it is very simple after he explained it, and I actually like it better than the 2A page now. Set up a photobucket acct. Load your pictures on photobucket open another browser to this site Pick where you want to post them here, then click the picture thingy, and 2 IMG things come up, click inbetween them. Now go back to photobucket and pick your photo, right click on it and copy. now come back here and past it between the two IMG things, works slick. Lee |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 10, 2013 19:05:48 GMT -5
Tim, these engines are very simple and straight foreward. Look on Craigslist for an engine stand, usually several to choose from and cheap ;D. Thank you for your kind comments, we are almost done with the teardown and will review it. If there is something anyone would like more info on, just ask . Lee |
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Post by Haines Garage on Dec 10, 2013 19:13:26 GMT -5
I don't regret a thing. Your photos are Fantastic, and the knowledge you are sharing is invaluable.
Keep up the great work. I am hoping to do a rebuild thread here. That is something that has not been done on any site...
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Post by Deleted on Dec 10, 2013 19:25:06 GMT -5
I will be looking foreward to that!.......I would recommend an engine gasket set by "Best", they have a copper headgasket that is absolutely superb, Walcks and Midwest Military handle them. Lee |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 10, 2013 20:30:37 GMT -5
I'm enjoying the heck out of this, too.
And Haines...over on that evil G503 site that you hate visiting, there is an engine rebuild thread. But I'd like to see your version, too.
Hey, Lee...in the beginning of this thread, you noted the snapped bolts from the thermostat housing. I have a head in my garage in that condition. Can those be removed by ones own self, or does it need to go to a machine shop? What's your experience?
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Post by Deleted on Dec 10, 2013 22:23:57 GMT -5
[quote author Hey, Lee...in the beginning of this thread, you noted the snapped bolts from the thermostat housing. I have a head in my garage in that condition. Can those be removed by ones own self, or does it need to go to a machine shop? What's your experience?[/quote] Moose why yes you can,,,,and feel free to post photo's on how to do it , LOL,,,,,,,,,Just kidding, I have removed hundreds of broken bolts in my working life and planned to cover that as well, you my friend have won a prize for noticing that, and bringing it up, so hop in the WC and head over to the Haines Garage for one of his "Hi Steppin" philsner beers and have him crack out that last bag of jerky he was saving for Christmas and have a few pieces ;D. Lee |
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Post by Haines Garage on Dec 10, 2013 22:38:53 GMT -5
G503 is Fantastic...Love it! And the moose gets no jerky( I am saving a bag), nor pilsner...Joker won't even answer my phone calls...Back to the tear down, are you taking the block to a machine shop.....Cring...I remember all the cracked ones I brought to mine.
PS MOOSE...my engine rebuild thread shall be the BEST! Here is why. I have "THE TEAM" here on the IFFC site, your sorry butt included. Watch what we do when all the Jeep Minds come together.....! IT WILL BE THE SCHIZNIT!!!
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Post by Deleted on Dec 10, 2013 23:00:15 GMT -5
lee are you going to send it off for a real hot tank or just do it red neck style?
( a 55 gallon drum, a chain around the block, put it in the drum boil up a bunch of water or solvent, dip the block in it, let it sit for a few hours, pull it out and spray it down with some sort of mineral spirits or wd 40 to prevent rusting.)
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Post by Deleted on Dec 10, 2013 23:19:39 GMT -5
Schimmms, I will keep the block as is for now, if you look at the first photo, it has a repaired frost crack near the dist. I do believe it is fixable. I purchased the engine for parts and had no intent to repair it. I was more interested in the head and manifold as I am short on spares. If I were to fix it, it would go to a reputable engine builder and get done correctly, cooked and machined, I would do the assembly work. One must realize these engines are 70 yo and need to be thoroughly inspected for cracks before you spend hard earned money on them, Haines and I both have spent money on blocks and heads only to find out they are junk. Lee |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 10, 2013 23:28:00 GMT -5
gotcha
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Post by Deleted on Dec 11, 2013 6:54:55 GMT -5
Schimms...I kind of like that redneck style approach! I've got a nasty MB block I might one day try that on for giggles. That might not float on Haines side of the River, but over here I'm surrounded by rednecks. Haines...yes, I've purposely been DODGing (as in WC) your calls...I've needed four hands to get my transmission in place and you weren't here. I don't have a fifth hand so I couldn't answer. Now...let's stop talking gibberish and distracting the class from learning. Professor Lee is educating us!  |
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Post by Haines Garage on Dec 11, 2013 19:03:13 GMT -5
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Post by Haines Garage on Dec 11, 2013 19:04:44 GMT -5
In case you are wondering, It is kept in 30 weight oil..SOAKED!
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Post by Deleted on Dec 11, 2013 19:25:19 GMT -5
So is that grampa's crank ? or a different one ?, has it been reground (by u) or polished?,,,,,,,,,,crank numbers, I have seen noooooo data on those. Lee |
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Post by Haines Garage on Dec 11, 2013 19:38:23 GMT -5
Not from Grandpas motors, L134 Chain Drive....The one I am calling a Buy back. Machine shop reground it. .020 over
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Post by Deleted on Dec 21, 2013 20:41:37 GMT -5
Well it's been too long since an update on this thread, but I have had a few setbacks this week, I lost my aunt last Friday, my mothers oldest sister, a shock but not a surprise, the rock of the family, 88 years of age, and the perfect example of a life well lived, struggled with health issues the last two years, and now in a better place  ..........Back to engines, Ok, I have the block stripped of the rotating group, left is the head,studs,and the stuck dist. so off with the head An OAK 2x2 will do the job.  A few whacks with the BFH and it's off  All looks to be in good shape, a perfect candidate for a sleeper supersonic head  ,,,,, but we best have a close look at #3 for cracks, as past experience has told me this is a troubled area. And all looks well there also.  Next I will remove all the valve keepers and springs, then the camshaft can be removed.  I have now removed the cam, the bumps all look to be in serviceable condition, and the fuel pump lobe is in great shape as well, all in all a good spare.  I have been working on the dist and have it moving back and forth, with great effort, more on that later. Lee |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 21, 2013 20:49:14 GMT -5
Here I am removing the head studs, and these dudes were set in place, made an old fat man sweat ;D, one snapped off, the rest put up a fight but lost to hard work. The stud tool is a Mac tools model, works very well and is sold by most others as well, priced around $30-$50, Chi-Com knock off's less than that.  Lee |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 22, 2013 1:12:11 GMT -5
Sleeper Supersonic Head ...........
I just did a little research on that very subject today - Results:
Depth of the chamber: .495" - .505" depending on where the indicator plunger landed. I'm callin' it .500".
Height of valve at max lift: Intake .415", exhaust .430"
We used to try to maintain .040" clearance between the valves and head on the Flathead V-8's. I don't know what the compressed thickness of the head gasket is, and I didn't even have a new one I could measure un-compressed. I think the Ford gaskets we figured at .055". If all these numbers are right, we should be able to shave .085" off the head and still have room for the valves to open.
Of course there are variables - valve face and seat wear, camshaft and tappet wear, valve clearance, etc. - Your results may vary. And then there's the fact that whatever we shave off of the head will weaken the area above the piston on the side of the cylinder opposite the valves - I don't know how much we can stand in that area.
Now, somewhere around here, there's a sheet of paper with some figures on it that will tell me roughly how much the C.R. will increase for each .010" planed off. If I can find that,,,,,, BW
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..........Back to engines, Ok, I have the block stripped of the rotating group, left is the head,studs,and the stuck dist. so off with the head