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Post by Haines Garage on Nov 4, 2013 13:12:47 GMT -5
I got to thinking about it, and am most curious. How many out there have done a complete frame off restoration of a Flat Fender? When I say FULL, I mean every component rebuilt or refurbished. How long did it take? How much did it cost? . Maybe some of us want to not answer the cost question
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Post by Haines Garage on Nov 5, 2013 18:19:54 GMT -5
I Hope that this discussion gets going.....I should like to compare "Notes"....
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Post by Deleted on Dec 17, 2013 21:05:51 GMT -5
I did one on my GPW.
I haven't a clue at the cost. It took 3 years and 1 one month to break it all apart, rebuild, restore and drive it. It took a few more months to get it marked up and some of the other finishing, nonessential details right.
But 37 months to do all engine, drive train, axles, frame repairs, tub repairs and all of the other knick knack patty whack stuff done.
Bo
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Post by Deleted on Dec 20, 2013 9:09:24 GMT -5
I've done a'45 MB, '49 CJ3A, '51 M38, all frame up, everything. Depending on how long ago, and accessories, they always end up between 12 to 15 Grand. That's no labor. You have a better chance of getting your cost back if you are selling a military type, or a rare early production civilian type. Buyers are quite savy when they do their homework and know what they are looking for. There are crazy people like the guy that bought a Barrett Jackson auctioned military Jeep with machine gun for 104,000.00. I guess the deal fell through after he figured it all out. If you really get after it, a full restoration of all components and that means all blasted, painted, new lines, hoses, wiring, all running gear gone through, upholstery, top, all of it, the best I've done was a year and a half. Weather and amount of body work will change that time frame. One took me 3 years. You can buy a very nice TJ Wrangler for this kind of money used, but guess which one won't go down in value. Some people are better at mechanics than bodywork. This will also change the time frame. If you pay someone to do the work, you can easily triple the prices I quoted. Restoration bodyshop rates average 50-70 bucks a hour. Most won't touch anything but insurance work. The best thing to do when buying a project is to find the most complete, non rusted, original Jeep you can. Buying a parts Jeep for a deal usually ends up costing more. You can sell a Jeep parted out for more than a complete unit, unless it's a rare model. What have you other guys realized on your projects? John
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Post by Deleted on Dec 20, 2013 17:19:40 GMT -5
John... I agree with your $12-$15k estimate. A couple years ago when I was restoring my MB, I was trying to do it on an extreme cost minded basis. I was lucky enough to buy a package deal of 3 1944MBs at once. Between the three jeeps, I had the majority of needed parts to do a great restoration. I was fortunate because I had the time and my labor was free. The engine runs, but is tired. I haven't put any funds into that part of it. I kept track of expenses and did fairly well, but I ended up reaching the threshold limit of what my wife gave me to spend. The jeep still needs military tires... Nonetheless, while doing that project, I worked up some detailed expense spreadsheets. Those came in handy when I used all my left over parts and assembled that nonrunner that I sold a few months ago. What I learned was this: No matter what jeep you buy, be it restored, almost restored, running, needs a frame off, has parts, some parts, no parts, blah, blah, blah...it will always cost you somewhere between $10-14k to do a somewhat accurate restoration. Now this is just for WW2 jeeps. I'm not up on the postwar knowledge. If you buy an MB for $1k, odds are you will spend at least $10k procuring parts and doing the work. If you bought a jeep for $5k, it most likely needs at least $5k in help. Seems like there is no way getting around it, UNLESS you are lucky enough to find a jeep that the owner doesn't know its value. And yeah...seems like they are more valuable in parts. Bo!
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Post by Haines Garage on Dec 20, 2013 20:06:10 GMT -5
As you all know, I am in the midst of one. What a labor of LOVE. I try to do everything myself. I had to have machine shop work done, and I had an old friend rebuild my carburetor. So I guess on the complete rebuild, I am out. I have spent...so far...ummmmm. We won't revile that info just yet......
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Post by Deleted on Dec 21, 2013 22:32:36 GMT -5
Yes it cost's hard earned dollars, no question, I agree with oilleaker on prices, I have never done a complete rig, there is a market for turn key military Jeeps right now, seems more people want Jeeps to drive than restore, the civilian market do not command the higher prices of the green rigs...........My M715, I took it from a barn, non running for $2300, and with another $3000 invested, tires parts paint ect. I have a very nice looking truck for 5-6K and have put over 12,000 miles on it, I could sell it and most likely come out ahead by a few hundred, not counting my time, that being said what is the fun worth, I have carried many vet's in parades with it, and heard stories that would make movies because of it, been on several convoys with it, and driven through five states with it,,,,,,the value of that is priceless, and the priceless is what this is all about. Lee
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Post by kansascat on Nov 27, 2014 22:49:20 GMT -5
I went thru Wilbur front to back, Every nut and bolt apart and every component gone thru with all wear items replaced or rebuilt. All parts sand blasted to bare steel and each piece etch primed and painted. All rust cut out and steel panels made and welded in. I wasnt going for a like new appearance when it came to the body work, but having owned and operated a body shop the first 20 years of my working life made making it look pretty nice a pretty easy matter for me. All new wire loom. UUpgraded to LED lights and 12v. I rebuilt the engine except for hiring the machine work done. The tranny and tc i did myself as well as both axle assemblies and brakes. Made my own new steel lines, fuel and brakes, Rebuilt the carb , steering box, suspension. Also made the rear swing out spare tire carrier and jerry can holder and added the roll bar. The jeep started out costing me $400 as a parts jeep. I spent somewhere around $5000 more on all the parts and paint and machine shop work on the engine block and crank. Started on the project in March and finished it and left for colorado mountains with it last week of July for 10 days. There were many late nights in the shop getting it done in time for that vacation trip. My then 12 yr old son was my helper. Here is a few pics of the process.
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Post by Haines Garage on Nov 28, 2014 0:09:33 GMT -5
That's what I am talking about! A FULL restoration. No shortcuts, no well I didn't really take it all the way downs. Fantastic. Pics are great. I almost forgot about this thread. Body man for 20 years! Awesome. As you see, I am struggling through my tub. In all, that's the real work...would you agree? I am far better at mechanicals than the art of rebuilding sheet metal. Glad your here, and thanks for sharing.
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Post by kansascat on Nov 28, 2014 0:28:37 GMT -5
Yes i would probably agree with that. When the body is as far gone and rusted out as Wilburs was they can be pretty labor intensive and time consuming. That said, i still had more hours in doing the rest of the jeep than i did in rebuilding the body. I did take the liberty when redoing the tub of making some improvements to it. If yo look close you will see i put 1/8" tread plate in the lower body sides. I did this mainly for durability as i knew i intended to use this jeep and to play on the trails in the rockies with it. Its going to take more than a small bump from a rock to do much damage to it in those areas. I have since built my own rock bars / steps for it to also increase protection. I also sealed every seam on the body. The main reason these ole girls rusted out so bad was the seams were never sealed from dirt and moisture intrusion. This includes the windshield frames and fenders and tailgate. Im sure someday there will be some rust show its ugly head from a seam on it somewhere, but hopefully the sand blasting and seam sealing will slow it greatly. Now im noticing from using it there are getting to be a lot of rock chips inside the fenders and rear wheel openings. Im thinking about going over these areas with a good undercoat or bed liner like i did the front floor boards.
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Post by kansascat on Nov 28, 2014 0:30:19 GMT -5
Missed the pic of the tubs issues. Attachments:
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Post by Haines Garage on Nov 28, 2014 8:33:43 GMT -5
Gotta Love Those Tubs!! Great Project Pictures.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 2, 2014 20:56:45 GMT -5
I am hopefully seeing the light at the end of the tunnel on my complete nut and bolt restoration. I started it 15 years ago and got a lot of the hard / expensive work done years ago when I had more time - but lost interest in the project while life got in the way. Over the last year Steve (kansascat) has been my biggest motivator / cheerleader for me finally getting it finished. My plan was to have it ready before the Co divide ride last year that he organized, but didn't make it. I am hoping in the next few months to have it wrapped up and on the road. My cash outlay is north of what I care to admit, but that is mostly my fault for not having a better game plan from the beginning. I have had to redo and replace things that I shouldn't have wasting time and money.
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Post by Haines Garage on Dec 2, 2014 21:06:30 GMT -5
That is Awesome!!
The next time one of you jokers picks on me for how long something takes, Remember this!
I am sure you will agree Cars And Guns!!
Quality takes TIME!!!
Any pics?
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Post by Deleted on Dec 2, 2014 21:12:31 GMT -5
I have some pics but not sure how to post them. Hell I can't even get the aviator to work right! Not sure if it's me or the IPad. Probably me!
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Post by Haines Garage on Dec 2, 2014 21:51:21 GMT -5
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Post by Deleted on Dec 2, 2014 22:05:58 GMT -5
Like the Tires!!
Hell, if you put that Yeti cooler in the back of my beater Willis, it would double its vaule!!
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Post by Deleted on Dec 2, 2014 22:35:20 GMT -5
Gary, those tires are so dry rotted I am scared they will blow just rolling the Jeep around in the garage. I do think I am going to go back with the same tire just one size bigger. Mine are 6.5 x 16 but I think I will put 7.5 x 16 back on it.
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