Rebuilding L134

[Deleted]

I just dropped of my engine to the shop for rebuild. I'll be purchasing items to be used by the builder. At this point not sure what all will be needed but want make sure I purchase the better quality parts.  I'm aware of rebuild kits and overhaul kits offered by various suppliers but my experience with other rebuild kits (non-willys) has been they generally include mediocre items.  Please provide your recommended mfg/supplier/part number for the following items.  If I leave out something feel free to add it as well.  If you feel a particular kit is of good quality, let me know that too.

Pistons and rings- (rods are good)

Camshaft and bearing-

Gaskets and seals-

Crankshaft journal bearings-

valves, guides, springs and lifters-

Head and exhaust studs-

Freeze plugs-

Other?

Thanks in advance

Bill

[Haines Garage]

Ron Fitzpatrick Jeep Parts.
And your rods need to be resized . Just ask The General Leaker. He's the one who told me of this.

[Deleted]

Make sure the shop knows how to build a Willys 134. The 5 little locating dowels for the main bearings and special care with the rear main seal. If they jam in a wrong sized rubber seal, it can burn up and destroy the bearings, put garbage in the oil that goes throughout the engine. Lots and lots of procedure to follow. Oilly

[Deleted]

Thanks for these helpful tips. The shop is a good one and have done work for me before.  I trust them.  However,  I doubt they have ever rebuilt a L-134. In addition to the engine, I also provided them with a copy of  TM9-1804A.  If you can think of anything else I should pass along, please let me know.  Bill

[Deleted]

Rods have a slightly longer offset that goes away from the nearest main bearing, and have a oil squirt hole that must face away from the cam. Pistons have a T slot that needs orientation. Usually if they are numbered on the rod and caps this helps sort the two types of rods. Flywheel with timing marks needs to be in the window at TDC on # 1. It can be installed 180 out. Make sure you drill the thermostat hole and re-torque upon first warm up. Two oil gallery plugs inside the block need to be correct. Square head goes next to the main and the screwdriver head goes where the rod swings by. Oil pickup tube flange should be filed flat and not warped. Haine's engine build has all of this in it. Oilly

[Deleted]

In general I have not had a bad expierience with an engine kit, but then again it's been years since I have done an engine. Nowadays with the Chi-Com wave of crap parts in the market that may be out the window..... For me on a complete rebuild I have found that if I take the crank to my crankshaft grinder, his price most often includes bearings, so I do not need them from a kit, the machine shop generally measures the bores and decides the piston size required, and fits the Pistons to the bore. At that point there is little reason for a kit. I have a block on the engine stand as we discuss this and will soon go out for inspection and if it passes the dreaded crack check will get sleeved to standard and built from there.


Lee

[Deleted]

May 14, 2016 9:39:02 GMT -5 @lee said:

In general I have not had a bad expierience with an engine kit, but then again it's been years since I have done an engine. Nowadays with the Chi-Com wave of crap parts in the market that may be out the window..... For me on a complete rebuild I have found that if I take the crank to my crankshaft grinder, his price most often includes bearings, so I do not need them from a kit, the machine shop generally measures the bores and decides the piston size required, and fits the Pistons to the bore. At that point there is little reason for a kit. I have a block on the engine stand as we discuss this and will soon go out for inspection and if it passes the dreaded crack check will get sleeved to standard and built from there.


Lee

In the past, I've had the machine work done at the shop and I've purchased the parts and done the assembly.  Purchase of pistons, rings and bearing obviously depends on boring and journal turning.  Granted, I was rebuilding more common engines than the L-134.  I've decided to let the shop do the assembly short of the externals and oil pan.  They're perfectly willing to furnish the parts but I suspect this forum is likely the best source to guide me in buying quality parts. 

And I too am waiting on the crack test before doing anything else. If the block is cracked, it's occurred since I placed the jeep in the barn 40 years ago. I drained the engine beforehand as a precaution.  Wished I'd pickled it what motor oil too.  Fingers crossed.

[Deleted]

Jarhead, these old Devils are common to cracks in the deck of the engine around cyl. #3, that seems to be the heat stress area of the engine, or hot spot area. Frost cracks are common in the water jacket under the distributor, and where the water jacket bottom meets the crankcase.... Generally the machine shop can beat anybody's price on a kit, mostly due to volume they purchase in. I have not rebuilt any engine in a long time but have been in many, and many different types, most gas engines are not that different, as Oilleaker said the 134's quirks would be the rear main seal and offset rods, offset rods are not uncommon either, Allis Chalmers and Continental also come to mind, possibly many other old flathead engines also... I doubt your engine shop will have any issues.... All will be fine!