Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Dec 15, 2015 7:00:43 GMT -5
Hello everyone.. I am a few months away from starting up the engine im rebuilding. But I have a question for all of you. I am worried about my oil filter. One little piece of hard dirt, or metal shaving can be catastrophic to my new engine. Has anyone put on a billet aluminum oil filter housing that filter 100% of the oil? I'm thinking about trying to put one on, at least for a while, to completely filter the oil and catch any crap. Then if I don't like the look, switch back to factory original.
Here is a pic of one I found. Any advice, cautionary tales, or history with them would be appreciated. Has anyone installed and ran with one? Do the different size filters decrease or increase resistance to the oil? Whats the best screw on filter to use for these little engines? I have not found much info about the modern filters with regards to different applications. For the most part, you buy the one they tell you to for your engine. Nobody asks questions. Why would they?
Just so you know, I am keeping my block very clean, and cleaning it out before I assemble. But I guess im paranoid about missing something. I'm thinking this is cheap insurance to protect a new engine. I've seen them priced for about $160 and one for a lot cheaper than that and I just started searching. So for $200 I can rest assured that all the crap is getting caught in the filter and not ruining my bearings.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Dec 15, 2015 8:32:41 GMT -5
You would have to machine a special block to pipe away the output of the oil pump to your filter, then back to the gallery. Possibly remove the relief valve in the oil pump and tap it there? Don't know. Willys overland never did this to my knowledge. The stock oil filter just tapped the gallery and filtered a small portion of the output and-----------the important part-----------metered it through a .070 orifice to prevent loss of oil pressure. If you tap the gallery to use a spin on, you won't have any oil pressure, unless---------you buy the special spin on that has two small orifices in it. I see no advantage to a spin on. I know of a fellow who complained about this. He blew up his CJ3B engine because of his spin on adaptor. Others delete the filter all together. I leave mine stock , the way it came from Willys. Anyway, be careful you don't end up starving your engine of oil pressure. John
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Dec 15, 2015 9:13:37 GMT -5
Hi john, Somewhere ive seen a pic where someone mounted the aluminum filter housing to the fender in the engine compartment and ran hoses that connected to the factory oil ports on the block. Basically just bypassing the original filter and not modifying anything.
I figure there must be a reason why not many people have done this, but I can't find any info on the risk vs. reward. Thats a good point about starving the engine. Like I originally posted, I believe the spin on filters are for different psi and flow rates. If the wrong one is installed, then a catastrophic failure would be imminent, either too much resistance to oil flow, or too little. I dont want my engine to be a guinea pig for different spin on oil filters. Lol
I like the look of the original engine set up, im just concerned about the one piece of metal shaving I didn't clean out of the block ending up somewhere really bad.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Dec 15, 2015 17:15:53 GMT -5
If the galleries are unplugged, brushed and cleaned with solvent and blown out nice and clean, and the oil pickup disassembled and cleaned, you have no worries. The oil pump itself has the relief in it. Not sure what they "tapped" to do the filter you describe. The oil pump connects with the cam and at the same time drives the distributor , so putting a block in between isn't possible in my knowledge. I'd just clean her up good and go. John
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Dec 15, 2015 18:28:19 GMT -5
Ok, if you want a spin on filter, you can find a factory base from a late 60's F head...... Regardless if it's a canister filter or a spin on, it needs an orifice to maintain oil pressure, this is a BYPASS type filter........ If you want to filter all the oil like a modern engine does, that is a FULL FLOW type filter. The FF filter is installed after the oil pump and filters all the oil BEFORE it enters the oil galley and on to the bearings ect.
|
|
|
Post by zooke581 on Dec 15, 2015 23:21:28 GMT -5
I have the Studebaker mod that was used in drag racing back in the 50s on my Supersonic in "Short Round". It is a spin on filter with a check valve that holds some oil in the filter as it is upside down. I will take pics tomorrow and post them.
|
|