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Post by Deleted on Oct 19, 2015 12:18:33 GMT -5
I am needing to replace one of the brake drums on my m100 trailer. It's got a slight dent and makes for a wobbly roll.
I've got what I think is an m38 or a cj rear axle. Can I pull a drum off it and use as a donor for the trailer?
If so, how does it pop off? I can't find the diagram online. I've popped off the hub cap and have removed the massive castellated nut. I would've thought it should slide off at this point. It's fighting me.
Secondly, if I can use this drum, I do not need the section with the studs. Can this be separated from the drum itself?
Oh, enlighten me with some postwar jeep knowledge, lads.
Wow...an actual tech question!
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Post by Deleted on Oct 19, 2015 12:26:53 GMT -5
M38 rear drums have 3 slot head screws on the drum face. Remove the screws and the drum comes off the hub. CJ drums a whole different beast. There, an actual tech question answer! Let the thread drift commence!!!!
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Post by Deleted on Oct 19, 2015 14:23:35 GMT -5
Dang it. This might be the CJ beast. I know the slot screws that you speak of and I cannot see them...there seems to be a thick spindle like pieces the lug nut studs attach to on the outer surface.
I'll await directions. In the mean time, I'll look for a CJ exploded diagram online.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 19, 2015 15:56:39 GMT -5
I think I figured it out. What a PITA. I'm using a crowbar for leverage at the moment. I'm on the hunt for a massive puller. In the mean time I pulled a WW2 hub for an old axle. It's slightly different internally with the lug studs. Ultimately I can use it, it'll just take more cleaning. Blaaaah.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 19, 2015 15:58:28 GMT -5
Yo Bo, can you post a pic?
Hmmm....There are only two styles of drums I can think of. One, the wider ones like Rick mentioned, that go on the outside of the hub and are held on by the three screws. Two, the narrow ones that are mounted behind the hub and are held in place by the wheel studs.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 19, 2015 17:39:36 GMT -5
Why don't I send you one before you hurt yourself!................ If your trying to remove the rear hub (cj-m38-ect) without the proper puller you will wreck something!
Lee
BTW, I had one off on the side of a road near Annie Creek South Dakota, you should have been there!
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Post by Deleted on Oct 19, 2015 17:42:38 GMT -5
If necessary, maybe I'll snap a pic tomorrow. Until then, here is a thread I found elsewhere through my friend Mr. Google: linkThis looks to be of the identical variety PITA that I have time. I'm about to bust it all up in many pieces with a sledge hammer. I sourced a larger puller, but now the fingers are too thick to wedge in. I'll be using the crow bar some more tomorrow. Have I mentioned how I like the WW2 version much better?
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Post by Deleted on Oct 19, 2015 17:47:41 GMT -5
Why don't I send you one before you hurt yourself!................ If your trying to remove the rear hub (cj-m38-ect) without the proper puller you will wreck something! Lee BTW, I had one off on the side of a road near Annie Creek South Dakota, you should have been there! The puller I just tried had 2 fingers. Do I need to find a hub puller or something? One that gets secured via lug nuts? Would a big box store have one to loan or is it too specialized? I appreciate the offer, Lee. Let me try on this SoB for one more day. It's a tight, cramped work space in my dinky dink shed. Of course the worthless axle is at the bottom of the axle pile, too...wedged in between a stack of 9x16 tires and 7x16 tires. ...plenty of opportunity ahead for tool tossing, sailer talking and and either the hub or myself will brake.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 19, 2015 18:22:01 GMT -5
From experience, I can say, you hafta use the hub puller with the three arms that bolt to wheel studs to free the hub off the tapered shaft. I remember trying to use a man-sized (as in the biggest Sears and Roebuck sold) three jaw gear puller once, the axle just laughed. I would loan you mine, but shipping that heavy bastard would be more than the purchase price!! I think all of you just need to move to Texas!
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Post by Haines Garage on Oct 19, 2015 18:25:02 GMT -5
I have a snap on puller vintage right here in the garage. I would be honored to loan it to you. As well as your axe. Say when,...
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Post by Haines Garage on Oct 19, 2015 18:25:43 GMT -5
All you would have to do is text me and ask. My feelings are hurt,
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Post by Deleted on Oct 19, 2015 18:28:09 GMT -5
Sad part is the drums are swaged onto the studs. You will need to cut the swage to get them off without warping the drums. I hate that kind. You will have to have the bolt on the lug type puller or you will need Mongo to come over.
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Post by Haines Garage on Oct 19, 2015 18:47:51 GMT -5
Meet Mongo
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Post by Deleted on Oct 19, 2015 19:04:19 GMT -5
Mooooosey, if you have an M100 you need the drum held on by three screws, if your donor is not the tree screw type your wasting your time. I have many used ones and your more than welcome to have one for shipping cost.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 20, 2015 3:53:13 GMT -5
Even when used rarely, Mongo good friend to have around.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 20, 2015 6:38:24 GMT -5
Sad part is the drums are swaged onto the studs. You will need to cut the swage to get them off without warping the drums. I hate that kind. You will have to have the bolt on the lug type puller or you will need Mongo to come over. So when I attach mongo to the studs, the outer ring Bastage that is tight on the axle shaft will slide off along with the drum...and the studs are swagged into the drum? And then there is no certainty that this drum has the 3 baby tiny screw holes already drilled? Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. Ok. So how does one cut the swagged ice holes out? And thanks for not drifting, yet!
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Post by Deleted on Oct 20, 2015 6:52:40 GMT -5
The swage, is done at the factory. The metal at the base of the stud is rolled tight to the stud. The cutter is like a hole saw that cuts this rolled area loose. I know of no one that has this. If you back the stud up with a heavy tube affair and then push on the stud in a hydralic press, They come out, but man is that thing in there. It basically tears as it moves out of the swage. you may still warp the drum. very stupid design. I had to fix one stud in my MB that was twisted off. It was a irritating job and I did only one. If the drum/hub you have is still good, don't screw with it and do as Lee suggests. Oilly
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Post by Quitting Moose on Oct 20, 2015 7:10:12 GMT -5
Mooooosey, if you have an M100 you need the drum held on by three screws, if your donor is not the tree screw type your wasting your time. I have many used ones and your more than welcome to have one for shipping cost. Older and wiser minds prevail. I'll take you up on it, Cap'n.
This stupid hub/drum debacle is ridiculous. I thought my issue was going to be a bearing disintegrating so I bought two new ones and the cups (or cones or races or whatever the heck they are called) and installed them. That's when I noticed that the actually drum was ever so slightly caved in. At least I noticed it. I'm good on the part that the 3 little screws go to keep it connected to the drum.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 20, 2015 7:20:45 GMT -5
Just so I can listen to everyone's girly giggles....here is a picture of the epic fail. I now give you all permission to drift.
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Post by Haines Garage on Oct 20, 2015 7:23:37 GMT -5
Is that an original drum? Or a replacement?
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Post by Deleted on Oct 20, 2015 7:54:21 GMT -5
I have no idea. It came with the trailer.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 20, 2015 7:57:45 GMT -5
Parade clown trailer with the wobbly wheels huh?
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Post by Deleted on Oct 20, 2015 9:24:20 GMT -5
BTW, I had one off on the side of a road near Annie Creek South Dakota, you should have been there!
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Post by Deleted on Oct 20, 2015 9:25:52 GMT -5
...and so it begins! Hahahahahaha. I shall sit back and enjoy the show.
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Post by Haines Garage on Oct 20, 2015 14:25:12 GMT -5
This right here is my Swadge No your friends don't know me....Swadge All my drums been popped off.....Swadge You can borrow my Snap On......Swadge Haines Garage Swadge..........HeeeeeeeeeYyyyyyy!!
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