|
|
Post by Haines Garage on Mar 23, 2015 20:48:30 GMT -5
Thoughts...
|
|
|
|
Post by zooke581 on Mar 23, 2015 21:01:32 GMT -5
Looks like China made starter switch. Too thin of copper. Also what was the story on the starter again? Rebuilt? (properly?)
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 23, 2015 21:07:25 GMT -5
Do you have a good ground strap from the engine to the frame?
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 23, 2015 21:10:38 GMT -5
Do you have a good ground strap from the engine to the frame? X2X2  |
|
|
|
Post by zooke581 on Mar 23, 2015 21:13:32 GMT -5
He's not replying on FB either. Must have opened up that 55gal drum of Light Beer. Or fell into it.
|
|
|
|
Post by Haines Garage on Mar 23, 2015 21:20:10 GMT -5
My ground strap is new. Shiny to shiny bolted tight. Gary just called and said to try and jumper cable the positive to the lug on the starter. I get sparks but zero action,
I will try to replace the floor switch...
Hold on...
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 23, 2015 21:22:45 GMT -5
He's not replying on FB either. Must have opened up that 55gal drum of Light Beer. Or fell into it. Nope, he's digging through all those neat and nicely organized boxes on the shelves in his garage looking for the engine to frame ground strap, blood pressure is very high, "f" bombs and beer present!. Hey, the dist. may be advanced too far as well!. Lee  He probably found his MIA crankshaft nut while digging through boxes  |
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 23, 2015 21:26:13 GMT -5
Hot switch means allot of draw. Check your starter cable connections and floor switch connections. Possible crappy GPW starter. Send it to me and I'll get rid of it. Actually your starter may be dragging due to worn bushings, or worn bell housing bushing, or possible leakage of voltage into the case, or even a bad armature. Oh, don't rule out the battery either. |
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 23, 2015 21:52:16 GMT -5
He told me that the engine/frame ground strap was on, battery was new, floor switch was new, all mounting surfaces and grounding points are clean metal and shiney, and the starter was "rebulit" by a certain individual that resides to the north of him. So, far I have not heard back,,,,,,,,
If the starter is found not to be right, I'm afraid it will be "Katy bar the door".
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 23, 2015 22:01:12 GMT -5
If the starter is found not to be right, I'm afraid it will be "Katy bar the door". Ooooooh, mega high blood pressure!.............. someone may be walking funny  |
|
|
|
Post by Haines Garage on Mar 23, 2015 22:01:13 GMT -5
Now it has been mentioned to me that the bearings in the crank may be wrong or too tight.
How hard should it be to turn the engine by hand?
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 23, 2015 22:06:43 GMT -5
With the plugs removed, how does it spin. IMHO if the bearings were to tight, it would not turn at all. Keep in mind this engine is going to be tight for a while, fresh rings/fresh bore/new bearings. I would retard the dist. a wee bit also. If it's advanced to far, it will do exactly what it's doing. |
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 23, 2015 22:10:04 GMT -5
With the plugs removed, how does it spin. IMHO if the bearings were to tight, it would not turn at all. Keep in mind this engine is going to be tight for a while, fresh rings/fresh bore/new bearings. I would retard the dist. a wee bit also. If it's advanced to far, it will do exactly what it's doing. Very true! A quick test, turn the ignition switch off and try to spin it with the starter, If it spins, rules out the starter.. |
|
|
|
Post by Haines Garage on Mar 23, 2015 22:43:15 GMT -5
With the plugs removed, how does it spin. IMHO if the bearings were to tight, it would not turn at all. Keep in mind this engine is going to be tight for a while, fresh rings/fresh bore/new bearings. I would retard the dist. a wee bit also. If it's advanced to far, it will do exactly what it's doing. I pulled the plugs. It turns a little easier , not much. The starter will turn the engine the same with ignition switch off. Retard the starter? Explain please. |
|
|
|
Post by Mr. Wizzard on Mar 23, 2015 22:43:52 GMT -5
You've been awfully quiet for a while. Did we throw in the towel for the night?
|
|
|
|
Post by Mr. Wizzard on Mar 23, 2015 22:53:22 GMT -5
Oh, and after sitting here pondering this for over an hour now and comparing your video to what mine was doing before I tore it apart, my thoughts are settling on it being a bad battery (not sure what the mfg date on that thing is but 6V batteries do tend to sit on shelves for a while). OR, when you had everything rebuilt, did you replace the bushing in the bell housing? It sounds like the armature might be dragging on the field coils (which I know for a fact mine is doing). Thoughts from anyone else?
Update: (from the FB side of the world and a different train of thought from troubleshooting conversation)
If it was the ground, when you go to repaint everything, get a trash bolt, nut, and 2 flat washers to put in the holes so you will have bare metal at the mating surfaces when you go to put it back together. Makes it look nice and purdy being painted but won't hinder the ground path.
|
|
|
|
Post by Haines Garage on Mar 23, 2015 23:39:36 GMT -5
Here is another vid . Sarge thanks for all the help,
We will get it narrowed down . Was going to bed, but I just can't!
|
|
|
|
Post by Mr. Wizzard on Mar 23, 2015 23:44:16 GMT -5
I know the feeling. Sometimes you just need to let it go and come back tomorrow when you can think more clearly.
That is about what mine sounded like jumping it with a battery charger on the work bench on 12V (don't yell at me all at once everyone. We all know these starters are a whole lot beefier than a modern starter lol). It doesn't seem to be binding internally. The only thing that would cause it to do that is the nose bushing in the bell being too big (worn or just not tight enough) causing the armature to shift and contact the field coil when you get the torque from engaging the flywheel. With the starter being rebuilt and tested by a 3rd party, I would (99%) rule out any problem with the starter itself.
However, this also doesn't rule out the timing being too advanced (yank the coil wire to the distributor and crank it, if the engine spins freely retard the timing, put the coil wire back on and try again).
You've cleaned the ground path off to test if that helps it out so this should essentially rule out a current flow problem. Also, I know you said you checked the voltage on the battery but have you load tested it tonight?
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 24, 2015 4:32:00 GMT -5
I too think it's a timing issue.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 24, 2015 6:01:52 GMT -5
Embrace the madness and frustration. This kind of troubleshooting is the beginning of a (hopefully) long lasting, generational transitioning (Grandpa to you, you to Scotty) rites of passage sort of journey. Trust us...this won't be the last time you pull your hair out, throw a tool, and kick a beer can before lighting a up a cigarette while you ponder the great mysteries of spark, compression and fuel/air mixtures!
|
|
|
|
Post by Ryan_M on Mar 24, 2015 6:17:02 GMT -5
x3 on the timing. I thought "Ground issue, for sure..." when this began but appears you have ruled that out.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 24, 2015 6:45:10 GMT -5
THAT"S RIGHT! This is his first one. Scott, you thought babies had teething pains...
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 24, 2015 7:02:01 GMT -5
I still have not heard that you have established oil pressure by spinning over the engine with the plugs out. Have you back fed the gallery and primed the oil pump by immersing it in a can of motor oil? Oil in there will sure help. It should spin easily with the plugs out. If not, battery or starter is bad in my opinion. Take a 12 volt battery and briefly jump it to the 6 volt. It should bark that engine over like a scalded dog. Have you also statically timed the distributor by setting the engine at 5 degrees BTDC on # 1 and then advanced the distributor until the points just begin to open? As soon as it has spark and fuel, they fire right up. Open the idle mixture screw on the carb 1 1/8 turn from seated closed. Don't rheam it in too tight. It's delicate. If this fails, Lee and I will fly down all expenses paid, and help by sitting in chairs drinking cold southern beer! Deal? oilly
|
|
|
|
Post by Haines Garage on Mar 24, 2015 12:21:32 GMT -5
General Leaker.
I guess I should have spent less time polishing my brass nuts.
I didn't realize you had to put oil in a Willys to start it.
What kind should I use?
I have a few cans of GL5 on the shelf.
I heard that's what the purist put in there.
|
|
|
|
Post by athawk11 on Mar 24, 2015 13:28:26 GMT -5
HG,
I would definitely put oil in it before you start it.
Tim
Edit...Oh wait, you might have been playin'. Sometimes it's kind of hard to tell around here.
|
|
