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Post by Deleted on Nov 13, 2014 8:16:37 GMT -5
After you get the miserable rear main cap installed with rope, and bearings, and you're all done with all, plugs in the gallery, clean oil pump float, with new star locks, etc., you get to install the oil pan. I found some of my rubber tube seals that go on each side of the rear main cap didn't fit the hole. I bought rope/rubber tube kits on epay and got screwed. The rope and the rubber were oversized and didn't fit. Had to redo the cap again. I put permatex on the rubber side tubes and am amazed at how much squeezes out the crack betwen the cap and block on each side. The tube sticks up above the sealing surface and you'll note that the oil pan gasket has notches for this. They need to stick up about 1/4 inch so the pan smashes them tight in the hole. Some will stick up 3/8 or so and I trim them to 1/4 or it makes putting the pan on a mess. Check your gasket first to see if the holes line up. Some gaskets shrink. You have to open up some holes a little in prep if needed. The bug a boo is the front. The gasket has to drive over a ditch to get to the front timing cover. Besides the permatex on both sides of the pan gasket, you need to fill in the ditch with blue glue or silicone here. They leak like hell if you don't. Oh, when fitting the front timing cover, it's a good idea to install the crank pulley through the seal before tightening up the timing cover. It helps center things. There is a ring of cork that fits between the oil slinger and inside the thick spacer here also. It keeps the oil from leaking out through the crankshaft pulley. Make sure you put short bolts in the inner two timing cover pan bolt holes. Long ones will crush into the cover , putting "innies" into the cover which can rub on things inside. You did remember to put the crank rear flange bolts in?  I buy new star washers for here. Thin, and important. Just like the oil pump pickup-------new star washers! If your chain drive engine was a gear drive, make sure and plug the sprayer hole up front. Double check with a straight edge you have the dots on the timing gears indexed correctly. Going back because you are one tooth off is a terrible lesson. When you index the oil pump to position the distributor, you make darn sure you are TDC on # 1. Then set the engine at 5 degrees before TDC and turn the distributor until you just see the points begin to open. Lock it down right there for static start timing. Your flywheel with the timing marks, needs to be put on so the window has the marks in it. Note: Darn sure TDC on one. If it isn't, you are 180 degrees off and the marks will be on the opposite side. You can fix it if you screw up by changing plug wires, or installing the advance cam in the distributor 180 degrees opposite. The distributor has a oil port on the side that needs to be elevated so oil gravity feeds into it. It's all quite simple once you figure it out. Oilly |
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Post by Haines Garage on Dec 8, 2014 13:41:41 GMT -5
My engine is back in the garage!! All safe and cozy like, Machine shop did a fine job . Head milled, connecting rods resized , valve seats in and ground! Comment was made that the connecting rods were the worst of it. He told me the number, but I was too busy smiling to remember what he said.    |
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Post by athawk11 on Dec 8, 2014 14:53:48 GMT -5
This is freakin awesome.
My project is stalled out a bit, so I'm now living vicariously through your efforts.
Engine work and lasers at the same time...awesome.
Tim
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Post by Ryan_M on Dec 8, 2014 16:16:07 GMT -5
That is genuine Willys porn right there...!! AWESOME!!
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Post by Deleted on Dec 8, 2014 18:37:17 GMT -5
Now aren't you glad you listen to the Captain and General? Well done my son. Now, when you assemble it, ask before screwing it up!!!!!!!!! I hate waste. Or was that wasted? Oh well, we'll be here waiting unpatiently. Oil
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Post by Deleted on Dec 8, 2014 19:23:44 GMT -5
I for one am a little cornfuzed!  , "Head Milled", BUT the deck of the looks freshly machined as well, was that done also?  |
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Post by Haines Garage on Dec 8, 2014 21:42:21 GMT -5
Clarify, head was milled just cleaned up .
Block was done first go around.
I am about to start the build thread. Separate from this one.
It will be locked, you pirating Bastages are off limits Iceholes!
Here's the cool part though. We are keeping this thread open to comments on what is posted in the actual thread. There are folks out there that would like to perhaps see it happen without all the comments and BS.
I need to say this very very clearly, I am no expert on L134 engines.
I do not operate a garage. Haines Garage is my user name, that was created from my Grandfathers Original functioning Garage.
I am restoring his Jeep, My whole web existence is due to that.
I work out of my home garage and do the best I can.
The help I get from members here, and other forums is invaluable to me. I am just a guy trying to put a family heirloom back on the map
My friends here may ask "why is he saying this?"
Trust me, it needs to be said.
So my friends, time to dive in!
If you see something, or have a comment, tip, method , and the funny business, please share it on this thread.
I couldn't do any of this without your help, and I am most thankful !
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Post by Deleted on Dec 9, 2014 7:23:21 GMT -5
Ok, remember to think chronological when you begin. Clean and sterile is the first order. No metal shavings or blast media in the galleries and interior. Then close up the gallery with the plugs all in the correct position. You don't have the front spray nozzle for the gears with a chain drive engine, so plug that hole too. Everything, rods, bolts, etc. must be clean. Even the holes in the head where the studs pass through will dump crud if not cleaned. I always put the lifters back in the same holes they came from on the original cam if not all new. I do this before the crank so I can reach in there easier. You check the fit of each and every component as you go. If it's got a problem, you'll notice it. You should be able to move all the lifters by hand. If they stop or catch, you may need to dress off the ridge or "catch". The rear cam plug is a soft plug that goes in the hole and you then dimple the center slightly to lock it in. Same for the water jacket plugs. You use permatex 2 to seal them. If you install the plug, be sure and clean the permatex that squishes into the cam bore out with laquer thinner. You don't want the cam to run into that. Make sure all the threaded holes are good that accept studs. If they need a threaded insert, now is the time, not when you have all the prelubed stuff sitting there waiting for metal shavings. You're going to find this to be a fairly long procedure. I cover up the engine with a garbage bag in between sessions. Read your entire engine section in the manual before you begin. Write down specs you'll need to check. Re-read each section before beginning. There is a method to follow when you initially start it. Crucial or you'll smoke your bearings and wreck it. Think of it like you are "The Doctor". You wouldn't re-start the heart on bypass surgery until you had all the vessels connected correctly and the chest cavity all sewn shut now would you? We don't want to sue you for malpractice and ruining all "our" new parts now huh? Tip: The numbers on the rod caps go on the same side top and bottom. The main bearing caps have a cast in #. You want to read them left to right looking from the rear of the motor. The middle cap can fool you! Remember to stop and ask if you are not sure or confused. I want "our" engine to purr. Don't let Moosey drop any golf balls or tees into the engine. I assue you stole anything else you needed while making the bogus video over there! Oilly |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 9, 2014 18:06:08 GMT -5
Clarify, head was milled just cleaned up . Block was done first go around. I am about to start the build thread. Separate from this one. It will be locked, you pirating Bastages are off limits Iceholes! Here's the cool part though. We are keeping this thread open to comments on what is posted in the actual thread. There are folks out there that would like to perhaps see it happen without all the comments and BS. I need to say this very very clearly, I am no expert on L134 engines. I do not operate a garage. Haines Garage is my user name, that was created from my Grandfathers Original functioning Garage. I am restoring his Jeep, My whole web existence is due to that. I work out of my home garage and do the best I can. The help I get from members here, and other forums is invaluable to me. I am just a guy trying to put a family heirloom back on the map My friends here may ask "why is he saying this?" Trust me, it needs to be said. So my friends, time to dive in! If you see something, or have a comment, tip, method , and the funny business, please share it on this thread. I couldn't do any of this without your help, and I am most thankful ! Boy oh boy, Tallboots is going to whine over the thread lock ....................... But I am all for it!  ..............Oilleaker, your preaching to the choir on cleanliness with Haines  . Lee |
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Post by Haines Garage on Dec 9, 2014 18:23:23 GMT -5
Now aren't you glad you listen to the Captain and General? Well done my son. Now, when you assemble it, ask before screwing it up!!!!!!!!! I hate waste. Or was that wasted? Oh well, we'll be here waiting unpatiently. Oil Yes!!! I am! The resizing of the connecting rods was something that is not discussed a lot ! The clean thing... I have an old saying. When you think it's clean! Clean it again !!!! Your last post General is very informative and correct! Going to steal it! Writing a good manual you know!!! Hahahahahaha! |
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Post by Haines Garage on Dec 9, 2014 20:31:58 GMT -5
We talked a lot here earlier about "buy back engines" I believe I found proof. In cleaning the mating surface in the block , I found this..    This is going to cause quite a debate, but the evidence is indisputable This block is marked 9 44. Now... What shall we talk about!! |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 9, 2014 21:33:28 GMT -5
That is Very Interesting! . Lee  |
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Post by Haines Garage on Dec 9, 2014 21:59:24 GMT -5
Interesting is not a bold enough word!!
How about PROOF!!!
I know things in my heart! Call me crazy!
This journey is no accident! Now, watch the shit fly!
I have been all over the web tonight!
This is Important. It's really not that hard to figure. Why so much debate?
Regardless ...our engine will live in Grandpas Jeep!
Scary isn't it.........
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Post by Deleted on Dec 10, 2014 3:55:59 GMT -5
Hold the phones. The picture is hard to tell where on the block the 9-44 is. Is that where the head mates?
The MB engines were stamped (normally) in one of the rear corners on the surface where the oil pan gasket rests. Is there a stamp there?
There it should read MM DD YY.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 10, 2014 6:59:04 GMT -5
The Americar and WW2 produced engines were as Moosey states, month day year. Up on top of the block they were also stamped with letters. Inspectors marks indicating the bore sizes they measured I think. There was a thread about that on the 2A page a while back. Once it's decked, they are gone. Yours must not have been decked on top of the block much. Oil
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Post by Haines Garage on Dec 10, 2014 8:51:50 GMT -5
I should have been a little more clear I guess.
The 9 44 is in the rear corner of the oil pan mating surface.
And, it looks like some of the stamping has been rubbed or wore away.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 10, 2014 9:19:08 GMT -5
You've got to find the last number!! The more I look at the 9, the more it appears to become an upside down 5. I'm going to go play contractor today and paint a rental house.
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Post by Haines Garage on Dec 10, 2014 21:40:43 GMT -5
Last number is unrecoverable. I went back and looked at Eric block date post. Same Area, Same style font! No arguing this one.
Build is under way. Any thoughts? Comments?
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Post by Deleted on Dec 10, 2014 23:09:54 GMT -5
Last number is unrecoverable. I went back and looked at Eric block date post. Same Area, Same style font! No arguing this one. Build is under way. Any thoughts? Comments? Is it running yet ?  |
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Post by Haines Garage on Dec 10, 2014 23:17:19 GMT -5
That's Very Funny! Valve Train Done! Maybe tomorrow Crank!
A lot of FUN!!
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Post by Deleted on Dec 10, 2014 23:35:31 GMT -5
Savor the fun, you've been waiting for this a long time!, it will pass to soon . Very rewarding putting things together |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 11, 2014 8:06:46 GMT -5
Now you know what I'm talking about don't you! Lee insulted me over at the 2A page. I'm going to put something in his HBR for that! (everclear I think) Hillbilly was right there with him too! You Willis guys from the dark side are mean. Oh, sorry drifting again. Oil
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Post by athawk11 on Dec 11, 2014 13:00:52 GMT -5
HG,
Sure is looking purdy. Makes me want to rebuild an L-134...just for fun.
Tim
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Post by Deleted on Dec 11, 2014 18:03:35 GMT -5
Now you know what I'm talking about don't you! Lee insulted me over at the 2A page. I'm going to put something in his HBR for that! (everclear I think) Hillbilly was right there with him too! You Willis guys from the dark side are mean. Oh, sorry drifting again. Oil Haha!, no insult, just the truth as well as some needed humor there!. |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 11, 2014 18:56:57 GMT -5
I try to set a easier tone. I enjoy Jeep friends that have interesting things to talk about. Even Jeeps. The tone here is a release from a bad day. Love it when someone shares a frustration and needs fixing. So, Haines, valve train in, what's next? Oil
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, "Head Milled", BUT the deck of the looks freshly machined as well, was that done also?
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