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Post by Deleted on Mar 23, 2015 10:46:17 GMT -5
Since I've got my thermostat sitting on the workbench, I figured I'd ask this question: why are there different thermostats for the jeeps?
I know Lee did a tutorial on the air hole a while ago and I can't recall if this was discussed. Would a 160 degree thermostat be better for hotter climates?
As is, my 180 degree one would hover just at or slightly above 180 degrees on short trips in the summertime. I recall on one extremely hot summer day several years ago, it reached 200 and shortly thereafter I experienced vapor lock.
If I were to exchange thermostats, tomorrow would be the day.
My 180 works...I just put it in a cup and poured boiling water on it and watched it open.
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Post by Hawk on Mar 23, 2015 11:30:06 GMT -5
My understanding of the choice is as follows… An L-134 engine performs better in a heat range that exceeds 180 degrees, thus the 180 thermostat. But… In warmer climates, having a 160 degree thermostat has some advantages because the fluid starts to flow sooner. This info is from the internet. And we all know…if it’s on the internet, it must be true.  Given you exceeded 200 degrees, I might consider the 160 thermostat. Tim |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 23, 2015 15:01:46 GMT -5
I've been thinking about a 160 thermo.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 23, 2015 16:45:24 GMT -5
This topic has also been well discussed over on the 3B page. The story was that an engine performs better at close to 200*, but my question to that was "why does the manufacturer call for a 180* thermostat"? I didn't really get a definitive answer. My feeling is that as long as it doesn't get to 212*, which is boiling, that I'm OK. It was also brought up that for every pound of pressure on the cap, the boiling temperature went up 3*. That means that with a 7lb. cap, the boiling point should be 212* plus 3x7=21*, or boiling point of 233*. So, it appears there is plenty of room for discussion on this topic!!
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Post by Deleted on Mar 23, 2015 17:16:34 GMT -5
I run a 160, and believe the manual calls for one. I used to run a 180, and it was common to exceed 210 deg. On a hot day!, the 160 runs around 180 on my gage on a 70 deg day, if I push it, it may go to 200, but not often. Lee  |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 23, 2015 17:39:00 GMT -5
To the best of my knowledge, the only reason for the original 160 degree thermostat was for the old alcohol based antifreezes, they would boil off at 165 degrees. Engine gets a little too warm... Bye bye antifreeze..
From what I've read and seen, a 180 degree thermostat is better because it helps burn the condensation out of the oil better.... Mine still has the 160 degree, I've been meaning to change it for awhile...but like y'all said it does seem to help in hot climates..
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Post by zooke581 on Mar 23, 2015 18:10:53 GMT -5
I have a 160 in mine and when it was 13 degrees and me driving 45mph it would be just at 160. In the summer at 100 degrees it would get to about 172. I do have the extra cooling 4 row radiator in it.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 23, 2015 19:21:11 GMT -5
Yes, the manuals do call for the 160 degree thermostat. I'm torn on the issue at the moment. I have half a mind to drill the vent hole into the 180 stat that I have and reinstall it. In years past, during the summer, my temp gauge would hang out around 185-190 (I think) during long-ish rides with a load...and a load being two kids and a wife!
I've also read what Gary wrote in that the slightly warmer engine is good for burning off the condensation.
I might go ahead and do the 180 tomorrow and buy the 160 and a gasket. I'll pay closer attention this summer and make an adjustment, if necessary. I've got big plans for doing a lot of driving this year...it will be fun if my soon to be jeep buddy across the river gets on the road! And then if Detard finally gives in and let's me play on his jeep for a weekend...we'll be convoying!
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Post by zooke581 on Mar 23, 2015 20:06:40 GMT -5
Don't count on the buddy across the river. Airbrushing and polishing takes loads of time. Plus trying to put square items in round holes set you back some from regular schedule.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 23, 2015 20:23:40 GMT -5
And there goes my drink across the computer screen. Well said, Zookiemonster!
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Post by Deleted on Mar 23, 2015 21:10:30 GMT -5
160 in the summer, 180 in the winter.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 23, 2015 21:28:40 GMT -5
160 in the summer, 180 in the winter. X2  |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 24, 2015 4:33:29 GMT -5
160 in the summer, 180 in the winter. X2
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Post by Deleted on Mar 24, 2015 6:06:09 GMT -5
X2
Oily...and present company...we should have Bob start a pole: (Sorry, Scout). Out of this rogue, jeep-lovin' gang...who here actually switches the bitches out every 6-8 months? Also, how often does everyone flush their cooling system? Blah! I hate the petcock behind the genny. If O'Reillys has the 160 in stock, I'll pick one up today when I buy my liquids. |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 24, 2015 6:41:08 GMT -5
"And your little dog too!"
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Post by Deleted on Mar 24, 2015 6:46:26 GMT -5
"And your little dog too!" Dang it...that joke was wasted. It flew right over the head of my short Italian stature.  |
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Post by Ryan_M on Mar 24, 2015 6:49:10 GMT -5
I have a 180 in my 3A and a 160 in my M38. Neither have holes drilled in them and I have no intention of changing either until they fail. I'm not advocating that this is correct approach but it's what I'm doing....which in itself means you probably should be doing something different  |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 24, 2015 6:50:02 GMT -5
I buy liquids to help cool me down when working on The Little Bastages! Basically you were correct saying it's better to run your engine at 180-190. But if your Jeep tends to run 210, which mine did, I opted for the 160. Helped much in hot weather. However, in cold weather, no. It needs the 180 in cold weather. There you have it. Now that said, I bought two retainer kits on epay and they came with a 170. The jury is out on them until "Herm" and "Evanston" hit the road. I also ran some CLR twice in "Hulett" and it did indeed get rid of the white crud in the radiator. I then found some seeps in the radiator and put in some Bars Leak. So far, so good. Nothing like a good recore for your Jeep. I wish I could get a recore too! Oilly
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Post by Deleted on Mar 24, 2015 17:52:13 GMT -5
X3. That's what I've always heard. Fits right in with doing something most folks, present company excepted, don't think about. Maintenance.
Oily...and present company...we should have Bob start a pole: (Sorry, Scout). Out of this rogue, jeep-lovin' gang...who here actually switches the bitches out every 6-8 months? Also, how often does everyone flush their cooling system? Blah! I hate the petcock behind the genny. If O'Reillys has the 160 in stock, I'll pick one up today when I buy my liquids. The drain cock behind the generator was an engineering marvel  , that was such a good Idea the Bastage put the radiator drain in an equally handy spot, and if you get it open, the coolant fans out on the steering works upfront, and you need an extra wide pan to catch it!  Brilliant! . I do not switch, as I store mine for the winter . Lee |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 24, 2015 17:58:05 GMT -5
No doubt, there isn't anything harmful dumping the coolant out by the generator...my fat hands just have a tough time getting to it.
I bought a 160 degree thermostat locally today. We'll roll with that this summer and see if there are any differences.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 24, 2015 18:04:06 GMT -5
"And your little dog too!" Dang it...that joke was wasted. It flew right over the head of my short Italian stature. |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 24, 2015 18:30:05 GMT -5
I have a 180 in my 3A and a 160 in my M38. Neither have holes drilled in them and I have no intention of changing either until they fail. I'm not advocating that this is correct approach but it's what I'm doing....which in itself means you probably should be doing something different Ryan, the 3A/MC with the coolant bypass will not have the airlock issues the MB/GPW/CJ2A have. I drill all t stats unless already done at the factory. Quality thermostats are special order in most parts stores as they stock the Chi-com cheap crap. Lee |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 25, 2015 11:34:39 GMT -5
Some of this has already been said, but to sum it up:
The basic concept is that your engine will be most fuel efficient if you run it as hot as possible shy of your coolant boiling for the best fuel atomization. The reciprocal is that and engine lasts longer when it runs at the coolest temperatures possible so the debate comes from the balance between the two. I'm not sure this is an exact thing but its the basic break it down to simplest terms.
The manual recommends 160 degree T-stat but thats because alcohol was used for coolant which has a lower boiling point than ethylene glycol. As mentioned earlier, alcohol boils around 165 degrees but with a 4lb radiator cap, the boiling point raises, … i think around 190ish?
As stated earlier, sometimes running 160 t-stat will show a 180 reading on your gauge. This is common.
Sorry if I'm telling you stuff you already know.
IMO, if maximum life of your engine is most important over efficiency, and you don't care how much heat you get in the winter, run a 160. If efficiency is most important, run a 180. Better yet, compare the two and see if efficiency is insignificant. If so, run a 160.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 25, 2015 12:13:06 GMT -5
Good stuff, Jpet. Thank you.
I found a 160 degree thermostat locally yesterday. I thought I'd try a science experiment this summer. For the last 6 or 7 years, I've run the 180 degree thermostat. In the SC summer heat, the temp would hover around 185-190 (if memory serves me). The one time I saw it get to 200, I experienced the dreaded vapor lock.
I went out for a 30 min ride today. Granted we have mild temperatures right now (72 degrees), my engine temp looked like it stayed at 155ish. When I shut it down, it looked like the maximum temp was 170ish. Significantly lower than the 200 degrees I would always see before (at shutdown).
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Post by rudycon on Mar 31, 2015 22:45:28 GMT -5
At our place close to 9000', water boils at about 195.1 F.
50/50 mix boils at 212.
Pressurized cap adds 35 degrees.
In my experience, my system boils over right at 210 or so. Maybe my system isn't air tight?
160 buys me more time on long climbs before it overheats and boils over.
I'm leaving the 160 in there. I hit 195 or so on the long climbs on the fall color tour where other rigs were hitting 200-205. Same amount rise over the thermostat, but lower opening point. I flog 'er much harder than the leisurely fall color tour pace on those climbs.
Also, the cooler my engine, the cooler my carb and the less fuel boiling I experience.
No antifreeze for gasoline and no fuel injection means gasoline boils pretty easy at 9000'.
our county fuel is required to have a Reid vapor pressure of 9 in May ans 7.8 the rest of the year.
That means that 10% of my "winter" fuel is boiling at about 141 degrees F!
My "summer" fuel boils at about
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, that was such a good Idea the Bastage put the radiator drain in an equally handy spot, and if you get it open, the coolant fans out on the steering works upfront, and you need an extra wide pan to catch it! 
Brilliant! 